97WhtSE

1.Changing the clutch this weekend and i have to change the tranny oil also. What oil and filte do u recomend?
2. I'm doing something to my dash this weekend also but i dunno what color to go. I was thinking of white cause my car is white but the interior is tan. What do u guys think?
3. Any tips on dropping the tranny would be higly apreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Maxima99SE

iTrader: (2)

please don't paint your dash..... please please

MaximaTodd

iTrader: (8)

here's a useful link on which fluid to use:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=225766

and id have to agree with Maxima99SEbose on NOT painting your dash. get a dash kit instead. painting looks cruddy. good luck.

1991tsi

iTrader: (2)

dropping tranny: follow hayne's manual, its pretty good. you'll need 36mm socket (rent at autozone) for giant wheel hub nuts. remember where wires/hoses go (esp if auto) digital camera pics are helpful. Crossmember under engine does NOT have to be removed, but Y pipe exhaust does. keep track of main tranny bolts, there are several different lengths. pry with screwdriver between tranny and block to separate it, work your way around, there are two pins toward the top of tranny that insert into the block. be gentle around the crank sensor at front of engine, its fragile. for manual its easiest not to use a jack under it, just a fairly strong person holding from top in hole where starter goes. Its not that heavy. Auto on the other hand is ~200lbs... put something soft on the ground for it to land on if you don't have a tranny jack. Be safe, good luck.

sryth

Tips:

• You don't have to remove any crossmembers or exhaust parts. You will have to lower the center crossmember, though; remove the 2 front bolts while you support the crossmember with a jack.
• Make sure you have a good 6pt 14mm wrench. A lot of the bolts underneath are 14mm, and are only accessable with a wrench (sorry, no room for socket/impact wrench)
• Don't even attempt to separate the lower balljoints...disconnect the strut from the steering knuckle instead. You'll require an alignment afterwards, but at least you won't have torn balljoints Oh...remember to free up the brake-line from it's bracket before removing the strut bolts.
• Try to get a 36mm socket that is small enough (outside diameter) to fit through your wheels. If you can't find one, you'll have to lower the car w/the donut on to free the axle-nut. I'd personally remove these first; they're on there pretty tight.
• Get a good quality breaker-bar...1/2" at least, 3/4" is better. You'll need this for the axle-nuts and maybe some of the tranny-engine bolts.
• Use a gear puller on the tie-rod ends. Don't try using a fork, or you'll tear the boots.
• I usually use an 8' 2x4 across the hood (w/towels protecting the paint), have a rope going around it and the tranny. I then have someone pick up on the 2x4 to elevate the transmission in place. An engine hoist would be ideal, but I don't have one of those
• You'll need a good torque wrench for the axle-nuts/strut-steering knuckle bolts. Any wrench that can measure up to 200ft-lbs (and fits one of your 19mm and 36mm sockets) will do.
• Make sure you note which bolt came out of where. Also, hit the little bolts (battery tray; electrical/clutch-hose bracket) with WD40 before putting them back in, and don't over tighten them or you'll twist the heads off...it sucks when that happens.
• Make sure you apply high-temp grease to any metal-on-metal parts before reassembling. Primarily the throwout bearing and input shaft.

Good luck!

97WhtSE

The thing is there are no kits that would match with my interior. I was going to go with the aluminum one but my interior is tan. Any sugestions guys?

sryth

Woodgrain goes nice w/tan interior.