MCengineer26

Okay, so last weekend I went to an Auto-X event held by a BMW club out in LI and now im hooked.. I had a blast even though my car is riding on all-season tires (that can be mistaken for snows) along with the stock suspension with lift that puts 4x4s to shame.. I figure to make it a little more enjoyable ill do a few mods like kumho tires, brake pad upgrade, sway bars- f+r, strut tower brace f+r and springs.. My question is do I have to upgrade the stock shocks to accomodate the higher rated springs? If so which brand do you reccomend? Since my car is leased i am going to try and buy used parts if I can find them so if anyone is selling anything I am interested.. Thanks

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

You probably won't NEED struts right away but depending on how far you lower the car the stock struts will probably die within 10K. Most people buy Tokiko or Koni's with the springs to save in the install.

Sorry nothing to sell right now. My first autox on new struts is next weekend. Last year I just had springs. I'll let you know the diff.

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

Depends on how many miles you have on your car, to determine if you need new struts. Most people recommend the Koni's because they are adjustable, but you have to cut the stock strut holders to put them in (not good for a leased car).

As for springs, depends on what you want.
H&R = Better handling and decent ride
Eibach = Even better handling but harder ride
Sprint = Best handling but hardest ride (racing springs)
There are other springs for the maxima, but these are the most popular

justmax

I have Konis w/ Eibach springs, but like breaux said, there's cutting involved with the Koni install... I have read many times that Koni's last longer (esp. with aftermarket lowering springs), but Toks are cheaper and go in w/out modifying the strut cartridges.
Eibach with stock tires = rough ride, less body roll.
Eibach with Potenza RE730s = rough ride, less body roll, INCREDIBLE cornering (I measured .86G lateral acceleration with my G-Tech Pro - comparable to an Integra Type R)

Have fun

jd

krazydutch44

Email me at krazydutch44@hotmail.com. I am asking for $150. Since your from Long Island you don't have to pay for shipping. Just meet me at hofstra university if your interested.

sinewave

You really need to decide which class you want to compete in before you start buying parts because the allowable mods are different. If you compete in G Stock, you can't change the springs or add a RSB or CAI but you can run DOT race tires. If you want to compete in STS, you can add a FSTB, RSB, CAI, etc. but you have to run street tires. One mod could bump you into a higher class where you would not be competative.

Get your hands on the new rule book so you can see what is allowed. If you have an FTP, I can upload a PDF version for you.

MCengineer26

It looks like I didn't give you guys enough information.. Right now my 99 GLE has 31,000 miles and the lease is up in December.. I was planing on running STS but I think the stock class is better b.c of my small budget .. Sinewave i have a small budget so what class would you reccomend? I wanna keep keep costs down as low as possible so would the G-stock class be best? and what is the CAI? And the upload would be great, thanks.. Also what tires do your reccomend sinewave? My friends that race said Kumho 712's are great tires for a reasonable price but if I do the stock class then I can get R rated tires right? For R rated tires they suggested Kumhos V700 Victoracer, is that whats good for the maxima? Thanks for everything, its been a big help..

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

CAI = Cold Air Intake
Kumho 712's are great for the money ($75 each from tirerack)

I don't know much about autocross, but my boss is trying to get me involved this summer. Maybe he'll let me drive his Porsche?

MCengineer26

All i gotta say is TRY IT.. I had my doubts before I went but it was a blast (even with my stock car , im soo regretting waiting for the last year of my cars lease to start doing mods.. Im just hoping I can get rid of this excess amount of body roll.. If you in NY and interested in the next auto-X event ill drop you an email..

Matrix

I am not sure about you, but for the group i Auto-cross with, they divide your car into classes, depending on your car type, engine displacement etc...

So they use this to equalise the playing field, so a 4 cyl civic can still compete with a 6 cyl Max.

However, they only allow mods in a point-system fashion. For example you are allowed to have 2 points.

A strut brace counts as 1
Non-stock rims : 1
Springs: 4
Shocks 4
Roll Cage: -2
Safety precautions: - 1

Etc.. so for me, the springs will actually hurt my chances in the autocross.

However, i have heard the Eibachs are the best for a tight circuit. A stock Max is pretty good, but apparently the BEST auto-crossing car on the market (stock) is the Dodge NEON.

I couldn't believe it either.

sinewave

MCengineer26,
G Stock is the most economical class to start with. I don't have the rule book here, but you really can't do much. Wheels have to be stock size and width (you may be able to put on SE 16"). I don't think that you can add an RSB or FSTB. You can install a K&N filter panel, but you can't modify the air box. I don't know of any Maxima's running G Stock that have race tires, but Kuhmo's or Hoosiers should work just fine.

I run in STS, which allows wheels up to 7.5" wide, tires up to 225 wide (I run Dunlop SP8000's, but I've heard great things about 712's) and all of the other mods in my sig.

E-mail me an FTP.

n2oMike

Check out and study this site for some great info on any future modifications to your Maxima.

http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/

Good Luck!

MCengineer26

Yeah, this is a great website with tons of information.. I found it while looking for this forum.. I think im gonna go for the stock class which only allows for a Front sway bar and ill buy a set of used rims along with kumho 712's.. Thanks for the post..

philpoe

iTrader: (4)

LOL
Don't think that Dodge didn't know that when they equipped the ACR version w/HD clutch, 150HP engine, stiff suspension, camber plates and removed the A/C stock when pitting it vs the Civics/Sentras of the world.

Pappa Grande

All,

Where can I get some introductory information on auto-cross? It sounds really cool..

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

http://www.scca.org/

sinewave

Here are some good links

SOLO II Novice Handbook http://www.miata.net/sport/autox.html

SOLO II Car Classifications
http://www.best.com/%7Emouton/sccasolo/

Car Setup and Troubleshooting Guide
http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm

The Autocross Files
http://users.ev1.net/%7Ejdiaz/articles.html

mAdD MAX

Do they have auto-crossing in Canada?? It sounds really interesting..but it's only in the States! You bastards!!

Pappa Grande

THANKS.

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

If you want to stay in the SCCA stock class, you can only do a catback, DOT approved tires, shocks, stock replacement air filter, and rear sway bar. Anything else will put you in the street prepared class.

best autoX stock car is the Miata, not the Neon 59 out of the top 60 B stock car class are Miatas.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

Here's two other links that may come in handy. Rumor has it that the official SCCA in CO is considering making the forums board it's official BBS

http://www.sccaforums.com/

SCC Mag mentioned this site - one of the first dedicated to SOLOII
http://www.conecrazy.com/

Matrix

If you live in BC, there are many associations you can join.

They all follow the SOLO guidelines.

Matrix

Yeah, where do you live?

In BC they have a few organizations you can join that use the SOLO guidelines.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

Well the verdict is in. The Koni Sport's make a HUGE difference for X-cross. The best mod for X-cross in my opinion. Mine were set on full firm front - full soft rear. Worn stock Goodyears RS-A tires too. Wow.

http://www.scca-chicago.com/solo/2001/learn.html

sinewave

So where can I get a set and how much? Do you think they are a significant improvement over Tokicos?

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

Too bad I sold my extra fronts already. I'd try swapping just those out and maybe waiting for the KYB AGX's later this year for the rears. Shouldn't run you more than $200-$250 from shox.com or elsewhere.