Knock Sensor cable disconnected
#1
Knock Sensor cable disconnected
I finally diconnected the Knock Sensor's cable. Now what's the advantage and disadvantage of driving without a functional Knock Sensor. Am I getting the full power or I am loosing performance? Rergardless my car is been not the way I expect to be.
1) I have Cattman Y pipe
2) Stitten Cone Intake
3) UDP
Still I my car is not quick enough. I feel any small Honda can beat me. Please someone advice.
1) I have Cattman Y pipe
2) Stitten Cone Intake
3) UDP
Still I my car is not quick enough. I feel any small Honda can beat me. Please someone advice.
#3
yeah it might actually mess up your car even worse. Buy a new sensor and put it in, but right now plug it back in unless you wonna risk detonation (if the computer doesn't detect no knock I think it will keep on adjusting the timing and it might end up pretty bad).
#4
If he's running around without it connected, the ECU is backing off the timing at all times. If it doesn't see the correct amount of resistance, it back it off to prevent detonation. So you're not really in any danger of damaging your engine but you are going to lose performance.
#5
1st thing:
"The knock sensor plays a very important role. It listens to the engine. When it hears engine knock it sends a signal to the ECU. (Engine Control Unit) The ECU normally will delay (or retard) the ignition advance. This stops the engine knock, and decreases engine power."
"Engine knock can be caused by using lower octane gas than is recommended by the manufacturer, or by over advanced ignition timing. It can also be caused by a "hot spot" in the combustion chamber. During high engine load, some carbon that has accumulated in the combustion chamber can glow red. This can cause the air-fuel mixture to ignite prematurely. This is PRE-IGNITION, and it is the equivalent of taking a very large hammer and hitting the piston before it rises to the top. (TDC, top dead center) This sends a shock through the engine, and the knock sensor "hears" the knock, and tells the ECU" -direct quote from motorvate.ca
2nd thing:
If you dont have a knock sensor plugged in...your ECM is just running pre-mapped ignition curves. Under the most ideal situations would be perfect, all gas would be free of impurities, and have the optimum octane for our maximas but we dont live in ideal worlds and therefor we need the knock sensor to optimize efficiency. (more efficiency=more power)
3rd thing:
"Octane. Octane number is an indication of gasoline fuel quality. Under this rating system, higher values indicate fuel of a better quality. Typical octane values for gasoline used in passenger cars are in the range of 80 to 100. A fuel with a high octane number exhibits better resistance to auto-ignition.
In gas engines, auto-ignition refers to fuel igniting before the flame from a spark plug can arrive. The uncontrolled auto-ignition of fuel is undesirable because it leads to as engine knock. Strong knock is usually accompanied by rapid build up of pressure waves that can damage the engine.
Fuels with high octane ratings allow higher engine pressure ratios to be used. Engines that have been designed to exploit this benefit have higher efficiencies and power outputs. This is the reason why sports cars often require gasoline with a high octane number." --http://www.visionengineer.com/mech/octane_number.shtml
if you want more reading material check out..
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/deto...etonation.html
http://www.visionengineer.com/mech/engine_knock.shtml
and to sum it up...
go to motorvate.ca...look up how to replace your KS, purchase one and do it. your car will thank you.
"The knock sensor plays a very important role. It listens to the engine. When it hears engine knock it sends a signal to the ECU. (Engine Control Unit) The ECU normally will delay (or retard) the ignition advance. This stops the engine knock, and decreases engine power."
"Engine knock can be caused by using lower octane gas than is recommended by the manufacturer, or by over advanced ignition timing. It can also be caused by a "hot spot" in the combustion chamber. During high engine load, some carbon that has accumulated in the combustion chamber can glow red. This can cause the air-fuel mixture to ignite prematurely. This is PRE-IGNITION, and it is the equivalent of taking a very large hammer and hitting the piston before it rises to the top. (TDC, top dead center) This sends a shock through the engine, and the knock sensor "hears" the knock, and tells the ECU" -direct quote from motorvate.ca
2nd thing:
If you dont have a knock sensor plugged in...your ECM is just running pre-mapped ignition curves. Under the most ideal situations would be perfect, all gas would be free of impurities, and have the optimum octane for our maximas but we dont live in ideal worlds and therefor we need the knock sensor to optimize efficiency. (more efficiency=more power)
3rd thing:
"Octane. Octane number is an indication of gasoline fuel quality. Under this rating system, higher values indicate fuel of a better quality. Typical octane values for gasoline used in passenger cars are in the range of 80 to 100. A fuel with a high octane number exhibits better resistance to auto-ignition.
In gas engines, auto-ignition refers to fuel igniting before the flame from a spark plug can arrive. The uncontrolled auto-ignition of fuel is undesirable because it leads to as engine knock. Strong knock is usually accompanied by rapid build up of pressure waves that can damage the engine.
Fuels with high octane ratings allow higher engine pressure ratios to be used. Engines that have been designed to exploit this benefit have higher efficiencies and power outputs. This is the reason why sports cars often require gasoline with a high octane number." --http://www.visionengineer.com/mech/octane_number.shtml
if you want more reading material check out..
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/deto...etonation.html
http://www.visionengineer.com/mech/engine_knock.shtml
and to sum it up...
go to motorvate.ca...look up how to replace your KS, purchase one and do it. your car will thank you.
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ballerchris510
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-23-2015 08:46 PM