Problem with wheel studs , please help.
#1
Problem with wheel studs , please help.
I changed over my tires for the summer and ended up breaking a stud off. I figured the guys at the tire shop may have overtightened it.
I went to dealer and bought a new stud and nut.
While i was taking the wheel off i ruined another one (threads mangled) but it didn't break. Took it all apart and hammered out the stud. Put the new stud in lining up the splines with the ones already cut into the hub (i figured it would be easier to pull in new one ) Used several large washers and the wheel nut to tighten up the stud and pull it in. Got it tightened up and pulled in but when i went to back the nut off the threads got ruined. I'm down to 3 stud right now and don't want to drive it.
I thought this is the correct way to do this operation or at least the most logical but now i think i could be wrong.
Could anyone link me up to a post/article on how to do this without ruining the studs. I'm getting some replacments tommorow.
Thanks for your help ,
Martin
I went to dealer and bought a new stud and nut.
While i was taking the wheel off i ruined another one (threads mangled) but it didn't break. Took it all apart and hammered out the stud. Put the new stud in lining up the splines with the ones already cut into the hub (i figured it would be easier to pull in new one ) Used several large washers and the wheel nut to tighten up the stud and pull it in. Got it tightened up and pulled in but when i went to back the nut off the threads got ruined. I'm down to 3 stud right now and don't want to drive it.
I thought this is the correct way to do this operation or at least the most logical but now i think i could be wrong.
Could anyone link me up to a post/article on how to do this without ruining the studs. I'm getting some replacments tommorow.
Thanks for your help ,
Martin
#2
Did you use the new nut to pull the stud in? Or use one of those old nuts? It seems like the old nuts are old and easily cross-threaded. I would just get new studs and nuts and try again. Put the nut on hand-tighten first. I replaced mine a while ago using the method you described.
#3
yeah, your old lug nut might be messing up the new studs. However, you should go to Napa or Autozone to get rather than the stealership. They wanted to rip me for one of each too when I did this a couple of weeks ago. Anyway, you want to put the new stud in there and then just put the wheel back on there and have it in gear so the wheels will not turn on the front and then tighten down until the stud pulls into place, then I would take them back off and check to see if the stud is in there correctly. See this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=287975
That should help out.
***oh, and make sure you spray some anti-seize on there so that this will not happen again. It will help keep them from rusting while they are on the car.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=287975
That should help out.
***oh, and make sure you spray some anti-seize on there so that this will not happen again. It will help keep them from rusting while they are on the car.
#4
I fixed them tonight. I must have had a bad nut and bolt. I used a new nut to pull the bolt in and it still messed it up. I don't even think i tightened them up as much as the new ones i did tonight are ( 90 lbs ) . But happy to say it's all fixed for now... well the nuts and studs are good but the rear brakes have less than a 1/8th to the squeeler so i'll be ordering up some new pads quickly.
Any suggestions for pads ? I'm running a gle stock with a warpspeed Y.
Might as well buy a set of fronts for when there due (thinking of checking them now )
If i could entertain a suggestion for a strut/spring combo ?
I have a 96 gle with the stock suspension. Struts going but not gone (147km). My thought is to buy a spring/strut combo to swap in then it would be easy to change back later when it's time to sell. Don't want to slam car but if there is a drop involved it's ok (not too drastic but less 4x4 look good) The ride is nice and smooth so a little firmer could be done.
Sorry to rehash the suspension thing , i'm sure it's been covered more than once. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks , martin
Any suggestions for pads ? I'm running a gle stock with a warpspeed Y.
Might as well buy a set of fronts for when there due (thinking of checking them now )
If i could entertain a suggestion for a strut/spring combo ?
I have a 96 gle with the stock suspension. Struts going but not gone (147km). My thought is to buy a spring/strut combo to swap in then it would be easy to change back later when it's time to sell. Don't want to slam car but if there is a drop involved it's ok (not too drastic but less 4x4 look good) The ride is nice and smooth so a little firmer could be done.
Sorry to rehash the suspension thing , i'm sure it's been covered more than once. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks , martin
#5
Dude, you can get a lot of wear out of the pads, even after the squealer starts. I mean, they put that thing halfway down the pad, so that you will have to keep buying new ones. I tear it off when I put on new pads, and then just check them when I rotate tires to see how they are doing. Much cheaper way to get a lot of use out of them. If you are careful, you should have no problems.
Most people recommend the Raybestos Quietstop pads. They dust the least and have good stopping power. That is what I already ordered to put on the front when the ones I have wear out. You can get them at www.rockauto.com. Use this code and you can get another discount:
- You give this discount code: 8311393101 to friends, neighbors,
relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who
works on cars or trucks.
- When someone places an order at www.rockauto.com and enters
your discount code in the "How did you hear about us" line of
the shopping cart, he or she will receive an immediate 5%
discount on that order.
- The discount code expires on May 11, 2004; so don't wait!
**Each month we see people who put the word "discount" in front
of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the
discount code.**
I know it is not much (5%), but that will pay for like half of your shipping if you get two sets of pads. It takes a minutes to load the page, but once it is loaded, it is very quick.
Most people recommend the Raybestos Quietstop pads. They dust the least and have good stopping power. That is what I already ordered to put on the front when the ones I have wear out. You can get them at www.rockauto.com. Use this code and you can get another discount:
- You give this discount code: 8311393101 to friends, neighbors,
relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who
works on cars or trucks.
- When someone places an order at www.rockauto.com and enters
your discount code in the "How did you hear about us" line of
the shopping cart, he or she will receive an immediate 5%
discount on that order.
- The discount code expires on May 11, 2004; so don't wait!
**Each month we see people who put the word "discount" in front
of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the
discount code.**
I know it is not much (5%), but that will pay for like half of your shipping if you get two sets of pads. It takes a minutes to load the page, but once it is loaded, it is very quick.
#7
Thanks for the tips and help , bruce.
Must have had a bad bolt as the new ones i bought went in with no troubles at all. If i did something wrong to the first one it's got me baffled. Not to hard to tread a nut onto a bolt with washers on it. Either way .. it's all fixed now
Thanks for the link for the brake pads, I'll have a close look at there site soon.
Martin
Must have had a bad bolt as the new ones i bought went in with no troubles at all. If i did something wrong to the first one it's got me baffled. Not to hard to tread a nut onto a bolt with washers on it. Either way .. it's all fixed now
Thanks for the link for the brake pads, I'll have a close look at there site soon.
Martin
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