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Compression Check ??

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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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Compression Check ??

I got a compression gauge today and did a test...a few questions...

After unplugging all coils..How many times do you crank the engine. ??

the first crank I got a bad reading but I kept going a few more times and kept getting good readings..I figured I would post here and Ask for some feedback then try it again and get some real numbers tomorrow

Whats a good reading, An acceptable reading, A bad reading ??
I am puttin my Blower on in a few weeks SO i wanna know im ok

-matt
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 08:06 PM
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When you make a compression test, the best way to not put your battery down is to remove all plugs before doing the test. Motor must be at normal temperature fonctionnement.

After that, remove the injection fuse or the relay to cut the injection.

Now you're ready to do the test. Keep the accelerator pedal to the floor when you crank.When you crank the engine, you must see the needle of the guage fluctuate at least 7 times.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:14 PM
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Any more tips...maybe a step by step

and some good numbers to look for

-matt
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:23 PM
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follow those directions in the thread above - they are right on the spot maybe except the cranking part - i say crank it 5 times for each cylinder in order to get accurate results

also some numbers to look for:Alldata lists compression for maxima as follows:
standard:185 PSI
minimum:142 PSI

Nick.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:44 PM
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isnt 210 stock from the factory brand new ??
So I think 150's would be bad
170's good
180-195 very good

-matt
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 11:23 AM
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bump to the top
-matt
Old Apr 1, 2004 | 07:00 AM
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anyone else...On good NUMBERS ??

-matt
Old Apr 1, 2004 | 09:13 AM
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According to nick post all data is very accurate. standard:185 PSI
minimum:142 PSI
Anything between 185-142 is acceptable, there should be a max difference between cylinders as well. Don't have the fsm around me at the moment.
Basically anything to 142psi is fine, it just means the motor is a little worn but still running fine. Probably has a little carbon build up,etc.
Old Apr 1, 2004 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by matty
anyone else...On good NUMBERS ??

-matt
As long as you're in the acceptable range, then the most important thing is low variation in compression from one cylinder to the next. I think the maximum acceptable variation is 14 psi.

An older engine will have higher compression due to carbon buildup. I routinely get 190-195 psi on my 95SE with 150k miles, but I also crank it till the compression stops rising and with the throttle wide open, which takes about 9 revolutions. I don't think the FSM specifies the number of revolutions.
Old Apr 1, 2004 | 11:37 AM
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Yea i crank once and get 150...then the more I crank it the more it goes up... I still have to do all the cylinders, I only did one today (raining), but I would like to know how many time to crank...

the auto parts store said 4 times with gas open
-matt
Old Apr 1, 2004 | 11:46 AM
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from what i learned in class all you need is 4-5 cranks. you can also do a wet test if you're getting really low compression you can put in a DROP of oil to see if your piston rings needs to be replaced or not.
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteMax96
When you make a compression test, the best way to not put your battery down is to remove all plugs before doing the test. Motor must be at normal temperature fonctionnement.

After that, remove the injection fuse or the relay to cut the injection.

Now you're ready to do the test. Keep the accelerator pedal to the floor when you crank.When you crank the engine, you must see the needle of the guage fluctuate at least 7 times.
I cant find the injector Fuse ?>?> Remove all the plugs before the test or just the coil packs ??

-matt
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by matty
I cant find the injector Fuse ?>?> Remove all the plugs before the test or just the coil packs ??

-matt
First relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump/injector fuse, its the fuse box driver side you pull the cover off and viola fuses use the handy fuse puller as well. After removing the fuse turn on car it will stall, then I would relieve fuel from the gas cap as well by opening it up. Then remove all coil and plugs, the rear ones are a pita at first especially the top right one.
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