Frank Fontaine

My bad, I had only used the tool once before. You use the wrench to spread the brake tool so that it is snug. However, once it is snug, you have to (obviously) now twist it using the lever that's similar to the c-clamp. That's what twists the piston. We weren't doing that yesterday, we were only doing the first part thinking it was accomplishing the same thing, which it wasn't.

The pads simply disintegrated when they came out, there was material left, but it simply separated from the backing.

Just one tip with the rear brakes--when you're done rotating the pistion, make sure the notches are in the 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions, as it has to line up with the knub on the pad backing material.

Whew, who wants to get into replacing Maxima calipers etc. when the original pads last 60-100k (front/rear)? You do it once, you never do it again.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

It can be a serious biotch to work on the rears when things get corroded.

Frank Fontaine

Can you believe the Nissan list price is $415 for a rear caliper? That's ridiculous. But you can get one for about $79 remanuf....