I am in the process of changing my brake pads on the rear, how many bolts do you have to take off to get the caliper off, or what do you have to do? I see four bolts, I easily removed two, then there are two 17mm bolts that wont budge.

Thanks

P.S. I looked in the Faq's, but the site for changing the rear brakes isnt working.

 

They come off, i did mine 2 days ago... put the wrench on it and tap it with a hammer or somtehing big and heavy and they will come off.

 

I had to wiggle mine off after I removed the top and bottom bolts. Funnest part was screwing the piston back in with needle nose pliers

 

Arent the 17mm bolts holding on the torque member???? Why would you take those off if your just changing pads???? You only need to take off the torque member if you want to take the rotor off. And yes those are a ****** to get off. I talked to my friend at Nissan and he said they use compressed air to put those on.

See web site for more info.


http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/301

 

I just put a breaker bar on them and a pipe extension if necessary, then I proceed to snap the bolts and buy a new torque member....

 

You need to remove only 1 !!! bolt to remove your brake pads!!!

Remove 12 mm upper bolt on the caliper and then pivot the caliper down, That's it. Website given above will probably have some good pics. There was a great link for this in How-To's, but it's down now.

P.S. Don't forget to unhook the e-brake cable before you pivot the caliper down.

 

where do i put the grease on??? on the back of the shim?

 

put lube on all the contact points (except the pad itself) if keeps things from rattling and making noise, I would also recommend taking out the slide pins in the torque member (caliper bracket) and lube them up, because if they don't move freely, then the pads wear unevenly/prematurely.

 

Does anyone know what tool I can use to return the piston back to it's original position? I understand that you have to turn the piston while pushing it back in, what tool can help me do this?

I found this on eBay, will this work for a 98 Maxima

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6762

Thanks

 

Yes, but I used it only on rear calipers, don't know about front ones..

 

this is what you need http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...egoryCode=3479 , I think autozone may have one that they loan out. Or you can use needle nose pliers, just stick the tips of the jaws in the notches on the caliper piston and turn. for the front you can just use a c-clamp

 

I went to advance auto parts, the guy told me to put a little grease on the pads. I then asked him the part that touches the rotor, he replied with a yes...but I have read not to put it on the part that touches the rotor?

 

That is exactly what is needed, but don't pay that price it's a rip off! Should only be about $33--well worth it, you can loan the kit to your friends to save them the headache of getting things apart and not being able to finish the job.

should only cost $33

I'm not sure why the other dude said removal of one bolt is needed, I removed 3, including the one that holds the parking brake cable just to have more wiggle-room with the caliper. Hmm....did not know it was that hard to remove the torque member. I guess I'll cross that bridge if the rotors ever need to be taken out!

 

There are 4 bolts when removing caliburs, if you actually take the calabur off the rotor. (some leave it on)

Now get some liquid wrench, hit it every 5 mins with that stuff for like 20 mins and it will come off with ease. Mine did and I got a 96.

As for that tool? You can use needle nose pliars as well.

Proph

 

The guy you talked to is a moron, DO NOT put anything on the friction material of the pad. and to take the caliper itself off there are 2 bolts, to take the torque member (caliper bracket) off there are another 2 bolts that need to be removed. if you are just changing pads you only need to take off the 2 caliper bolts. and remember not to let the caliper hang by the brake line, hang it up with a piece of wire or string.

 

Agreed. You do not put grease between the pads and rotors.

 

Guys, why do you create extra work for yourself when you just change pads, Read Haynes Manual! Remove upper 12mm bolt on caliper and just pivot it down..

So long..

 

I have never done the rears, but I agree with Vlad. On the fronts I do the same except I just remove the bottom one and pivot it up. It is the same principle though.

You do not want to put grease on the pad that touched the rotor! DO NOT!

A C-clamp will work fine. I had to change the fronts this past weekend, and the rears are not that different except for the e-brake cable.

**NOTE: be sure to go after a few cranks of the c-clamp and check the brake fluid resevoir. It will cause the fluid level in there to rise. you will probably have to take some out to be able to finish the job.

 

Vlad is right...All you need to remove is the lower 12mm bolt. Please tell me that you don't have your handbrake because if so you are wasting your time. I hope that you are using Akebono brakes or something of similar quality or you will be spending more money on rotors soon. I would advise that you spend the $10 on the caliper tool because I really wouldn't advise using anything else. If you turn your caliper back in with some other tool you run the risk of getting it stuck and it you do that you might as well call a buddy to run you over to the junk yard for a new caliper.