My brakes have been making some rubbing noises and causing the weird motion in the pedal. So I took it in to confirm that my rotors are warped. I bought OEM BLanks b/c my wallet isn't deep enough right now for a BBK. I look in the How-To's and didn't see anything that related to replacing stock rotors. Anyone know a write or have one handy ? I have never done this to a Max so I'm not going to just go for it w/o some instructions, thankfully :P Thanks guys/gals!!!!!

-Trav

 

First, loosen the lug nuts and raise the side of the car. Take off the wheel. Remove the brake caliper (use a ziptie to hang it from the spring, you DON'T need to disconnect the brake lines). Remove the brake caliper mounting braket.

OK, now, the rotor should still be in place, but it's being held to the hub by heat/ pressure, so just wiggle it (or tap it) and just slide it off the hub and wheel studs. Place the new rotor on the hub and do the reverse of replacement. This should take you no more than 15 minutes per rotor. Good luck, if this isn't detailed enough, check out the Haynes repair manual.

Eddie

zT

 

I think you can skip the caliper removal since you can just take it off with the mounting bracket.

 

Doesn't sound difficult, wasn't sure if there was something special about Max's......b/c everything is either easy or superhard. Thanks 95BLK and Big D!

 

Nothing special about the max, at least on the front. motorvate.ca has a write up too. You'll need a large c-clamp to compress the caliper when it's time to put it back on (may even want to loosen a touch before you take it off).

This really is not difficult, so you'll get it. Just make sure you have a socket set and you may need a long ratchet. if you don't want to buy a breaker bar, you can you can buy some cheap pipe from home depot and fit it over your ratchet for extra torque, should you need it.

Most would recommend new pads when you turn/replace rotors.

 

To push the caliper back in, you can just loosen the bleeder valve and push the caliper in with the rubber handle of a hammer.

 

Is there any risk of air getting into the caliper, and forcing to bleed the system as an additionnal step? I just take off the cap of the brake master cylinder reservoir, instead of opening the bleeder valve.

I also use a c-clamp to gently retract the piston back into the caliper.

 

You don't have to loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper. What I did was that I pushed the piston back in with the c-clamp. Put everything back together, but before I even started to roll the car, I pumped the brake pedal a couple times. At first it goes down a ways, but after a couple pumps it gets back to normal. THEN, it's safe to drive (since the piston is "seated", you won't be pulling to the side while braking). And like this, you don't have to worry about getting air into the hydrolic system. This is how I did it cus I don't like to mess with hydrolics, for the same fear of getting air in the system, and also, Haynes doesn't say anything about having to do that, so why go through the trouble? :-) Take care, Eddie

zT

 

Once you compress the brake caliper with the c-clamp, you will prolly have to take some fluid out of the resevoir so that it does not run over.

 

Just don't try to suck it out a little at a time with a straw. I did, and...well, brake fluid doesn't taste too good.

 

I used a little syringe...works great!

True, sryth, that stuff smells bad enough. I can only imagine how it tastes. ha ha

 

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300