Today I went and got the free 100 point inspection from the stealership. Anyway, when ever i make a half way sharp turn I hear this clunking noise from the right front side of my car, well the dealership said i have a torn cv boot, so my question is do I have to get a whole new axle or just a cv boot?
thanks in advance

 

If the cv boot is cracked its all you need to get replaced... you can even do it yourself if ya want... Just get the haynes manual or go here and they explain how to do it. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

 

I'd recommend you get the whole axle replaced. Sure, replacing the boot will save you ~$30, but it gets real messy. If the joint has been contaminated for a while, it might be on the way out.

Bottom line: replace the whole axle. Autozone has them cheap ~$70 (IIRC) or you can go to www.raxles.com and get one for ~$120 (IIRC).

 

If your hearing a clunking or clicking noise like on a roller coster ride then it's more then just a torn CV boot. Your CV joint is going bad. You may as well just replace it since your gonna have to take it apart to replace the boot anyway. Unless you do it GHETTO STYLE & cut the new boot & put it on with zip tye's or something like that?

 

Well, not that I condone using them, but they do make a split boot. It wraps around the joint and gets bolted together. Again, I'd replace the whole axle; if you're just doing the boot...you could use a split boot.

 

I agree with replacing the axels..

You have to remove the axels to do a good job on the boots anyway, so just take the old out and put the new in. It isn't as hard a job on the Max's as you would think. I did mine in the fall without any major issues.

 

Thanks for the replies i found a cheap axle thats new for $30 plus shipping right now, so i might just pick it up.

 

Man this is getting rediculous. Search would make this thread unecessary. Who else thinks the CV's on Max's are very weak? There is a thread like this every week. Both mine have been replaced.

 

Are there cars that go 200K + miles and not typically have their cv boots tear? I'd like you to let me know what they are cause i havent seen them. In my expierence all cv boots are weak.

 

I replaced my axels at about 140K.. I was hearing noises that I thought was the CV joint going bad.. When I removed the axel the boot was in fine shape, I probably could have gotten another 30 - 50 k out of it easy.

I replaced the axels anyway since they were already out of the car.

BTW the noise I was hearing turned out to be the wheel bearing

 

How much was the wheel bearing??

 

Where'd you find one that cheap? I need one too...

Sam

 

Wheel Bearings run between $35 - $70/side...


But the bearings are pressed in, so removal and installation is difficult

 

I'm around harrisburg pa, and i think i'm going to have to replace the front left axel. I had been seeing grease on my wheel and i looked under and the boot is torn. I would definitly want to do this myself but i am a little worried about doing it myself. Is there anyone around Harrisburg that would be willing to give me a hand? Thanks

 

Do you guys think i should have a shop install it so theres no room for error?? How do you think that will cost? thanks

 

When you think about, the entire forum is a repeat, over and over. Airbag lamps, brake calipers, intakes, wheel sizes, beat an M3, outhandled an Acura, got a coupon in the mail, how much should this cost, what's the best color, look at my new max photos, any place to buy parts on the web, what's a good interest rate, poll: what color is your car, why did you buy a max, what high school do you go to, on and on.

 

I have often seen CV's outlast an engine. Unless it is abused it doesn't make sense that a piece of rubber should rip or dryrot so easily. I know from a friend that has raced VW's for years now that VW CV's are nearly indestructable. Trucks are also that way but that is a whole different ball of wax. I'm just saying that its odd that Nissan built and engine that typically lasts twice or three times as long as its CV boots. Maxine, I suggest having it done at a shop. I probably wouldn't attempt this because to be done right it requires a heavy duty press. There is a good wright-up on motorvate that describes how to do this with handtools but it seems difficult and not precise.

 

It all depends. If you have the tools, a desire to work on your car/save money, a place to work and a few hours to kill...do it yourself!

Heavy duty press? To replace a drive axle?

You don't need a press...but you will need:

Tools:
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" 36mm socket
Torque wrench (~150lb/ft, IIRC) for all sockets mentioned
Lugwrench
19mm,17mm,14mm sockets w/socket wrench
2-jaw puller (only need this if you want/need to disconnect the tie-rod)
Crowbar
Hammer
Large flathead screwdriver

Miscellaneous:
Drain pan
Funnel
Jack/jackstands
Donut (spare) if the 36mm socket won't fit through the stock wheels

Parts:
New axle
Gear oil
Cotter pins (1 for axle nut, 1 for the tie-rod nut (optional))

...did I leave anything out?

 

First of all ^^^ holy crap.
second of all i just won a brand new axle for $76 shipped, i'm just a little scared to try this, one thing goes wrong and I'm in the ditch.