Maxima Moose

I apologize if this is covered in the stickys. Both my red brake light and Red Battry lights came on this morning on the dash. Would these be classified as "CEL". I was thinking CEL would be the yellow light only. I apologize if that is a stupid question.

Is it time to run diagnostics at this point or does this combination mean anything in particular?

Last weekend I had the fuel system cleaning service done (100 miles ago at this point). Would that trigger these two lights?

I was pannicked this morning when I saw that and just want some reassurance of next best steps.

Thanks in advance!

MM

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

That's the emergency brake light. When mine came on it was due to a low fluid level. So check the brake fluid level. But also make sure the e-brake is down all the way

If the battery light is coming on than the battery is weak. Take it out and go to Pepboys or Autozone, and they'll test it to see if it's any good.

Maxima Moose

I think if my battery is low there may be another issue with it as I just put in the Die Hard Gold in March 2003.

The brake fluid level seems possible.

It just seemed odd that they both came on at the same time.

Thanks,

MM

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

If you just put the battery in not to long ago, check the connections to make sure they're both tight. But don't rule a defective battery out, it is possible

WHOS UR DADDY

iTrader: (8)

alternator go bye bye, fix it before you get stranded, in fact on the 97 i think there is a recall on the alternator so smell ur local dealer, might get a freebee.

ch13f

^ yep.. its the alternator... same exact thing happened to me last year. Brake and battery lights went on one night.

WHOS UR DADDY

iTrader: (8)

and make sure u smell the dealer first, some years have a recall, i stink its 97 and 98, check www.alldata.com

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

Get the alternator checked out before you replace it. IMO it just doesn't sound like that's the bad part

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

its the alt x 53253253, that is the only thing that will trigger both lights. I've seen it a million times. Rarely it is the battery, but you replaced your recently, so its the alternator, no doubt about it.

maximamoose

Not to be off-topic, Maxima Moose, but you stole my name! That's not right! Just kidding. Nice nickname. PM me and let me know how you came up with that one!
Matt

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

I also would think it is the alternator. I would say this, because the battery has had to work harder than it needs to to be able to power everything.
The brake light, I don't know. It might just be low fluid.
The alternator checks of Autozone/wherever are not all that accurate/true. I had mine checked a few years ago in another car, and two different places said it was good. A couple of days later, my car was in the shop getting a new alternator put in.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

I would try that first, because they are pretty cheap and not too hard to replace yourself, and then if the problem persists, check out other options.

**Note, if the alternator has been bad for a little while, your new strong battery will probably be shot because it has been working overtime on all the things that the alternator usually does.**

Maxima Moose

Thank you all for your help. I just got home from work and can now actually look under the hood. The lights were on as I raced to catch the train this morning for work. Was hoping that the lights would just turn off on their own. Nope!

Thank you for mentioning the part about not believing the alternator tests. I actually just had mine load tested 2 months ago and the read outs said it was fine. I was suspect of the alternator because both the automatic climate control and radio displays would flash at me in the winter when the car was cold. Has anyone had that problem??

I ironically already have an appointment to go to that garage this weekend anyway if I can not figure this out myself. I will be sure to mention to them that it could be the alternator.

Hopefully I can get this remidied asap as I plan on putting on a new Y-pipe next weekend(my first real mod-unless you count cd holders on the visors lol). My car will have to be ready for a 240 mile ride to my friends house that agreed to put it on for me.

Maximamoose-I apologize for taking your name. I had no idea when I picked my name for the site. I guess that since I put the space in between the names it accepted it as unique. I have had the nick name Moose since 4th grade and ever since.

Thanks again,
MM

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

I would just guy a Haynes manual and get an alternator from somewhere and do it yourself. I bet you could do all that for under $100 that way.
I don't know.
It would not run you a ton of labor, but I don't think it would be too hard to do yourself.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Okay, so I was dead wrong.
You are looking at more like $261.79 at www.rockauto.com for the alternator.
I was just guessing at other cars I have done the same. They were all like $100.
That is one expensive alternator.
Would the Bosch be a good one, you guys? To help this guy out? It is 125 amp.

ch13f

Bring it to the dealer and mention the recall... prolly be better to not even drive it there, just call up with your VIN and ask if the car is included in the recall. You can only drive so long without the alternator, the battery will soon die and there will be no electricity to fire the spark plugs.

Maxima Moose

I have checked my VIN to the ones listed on the recall and it appears my number is before the recalled alternators. I still may call and ask-it does not hurt.

I have been driving my car spareingly the past few days and don't even turn on the radio. I have to drive it 2 more times before I get it fixed; home from the train station(2 miles) and to the autoshop (7 miles) tomorrow morning. I already had an appointment anyway with them tomorrow and called to let them know that I have more things that need to be done.

I have no idea about power on alternators. What is the best to get for the price? I assume they don't get asked this question when they put it in but if I have a choice I will want something equal to the original. They will probably call the local parts shop after they look at mine to get it delivered. I want to put my $.02 in to make sure I don't get something that is not adequate.

Thanks!
MM

Maxima Moose

To put this thread to rest and to state the resolution to the problem. It was the alternator. Just got a remanufactured one put in today. Did not do it myself so it cost some coin. Did not go to the stealership. It still cost just under $600

Hopefully next week my y-pipe will arrive!

Thanks and Regards,

MM

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear that the problem is solved.
Sorry to hear that you had to spend so much.
I mean, I think you should have been able to do it for half that price, with not much headache. The alternator is not that hard to get to. It is not any more difficult to do a replacement on it than the y-pipe, and tons of people do their own y-pipe.
With a little reading, you could have saved enough to buy some new struts or a front lip.

Keith P

Actually, the brake light is tied to the charging system. And the Hynes manual does NOT tell you this. I found it in the wiring schematic.

Another post earlier this week.

SzeMan4

had same thing happen....dealer said that is usually a high percent sign that is your alternator when the brake and battery light is on