drop resistor.. bad??? help
drop resistor.. bad??? help
i am doing some throttle body cleaning in the next few days, and my intake will be off exposing the drop resistor. I thought i my as well do it since i wil have easy access, but first a few questions..Is the drop resistor mod bad for your transmission [i have 102,000 miles]???? and i am going to install a manual switch, with a manual switch can i flip it on and off while driving down the road or do i have to stop in order to turn it on and off safely? Help is greatly appreciated, dad would kill me if i F***ed up my trans :/
No, it's not bad for it. If anything, it's better as it lessens slippage. You can turn it on and off at will but I'd only use it when you're at full throttle; get a tranny cooler too.
~THT
~THT
I still think it's bad. If it was good and that simple to do there would be no point in the VB since it does almost the same thing. In the end, it's doing whatever the VB mod is doing except without all the parts that come with the VB mod.
Originally Posted by Big D
I still think it's bad. If it was good and that simple to do there would be no point in the VB since it does almost the same thing. In the end, it's doing whatever the VB mod is doing except without all the parts that come with the VB mod.
I like the way mine shifts at part throttle, its the wot shifts I am trying to improve.
Spending money on the VB mod is like paying big bucks for a PR or Injen intake when you can buy the same thing on Ebay for $50 minus the good filter.
Recently on Maxima.org someone posted about a 'drop resistor mod'. When a sensor is disconnected, it allows the full line pressure in the auto tranny which makes shifts faster and more abrupt. I tried this myself and it makes an enormous difference in shift times. Is it harmful to the transmission? Derek Michaels
Full line pressure will be slightly easier on the transmission because it reduces slippage (typically 2-8% for autos) and shift overlap (being in two gears at once when upshifting) due to stronger application forces being directed via the servos to the bands and clutches. This locks up the bands and clutches harder and gives firmer shifts. By reducing slippage, it also decreases the amount of heat produced by the clutches and bands and locks the clutch in the torque converter up harder in the higher gears to increase fuel economy. The heat produced by slippage contributes to wearing out the seals, bands and clutches in an automatic more quickly. However, since the transmission controller is programmed to give full line pressure at wide open throttle, this mod just gives rough shifts at part throttle. It's similar to using an HKS ALC (Automatic Line Controller) box. Other ideas to improve shifting with an auto tranny could be to shim the PL solenoid regulator springs to increase peak pressure or to shim the shift accumulator springs to firm up and speed up the shifts. Or you can just swap in a manual!
Full line pressure will be slightly easier on the transmission because it reduces slippage (typically 2-8% for autos) and shift overlap (being in two gears at once when upshifting) due to stronger application forces being directed via the servos to the bands and clutches. This locks up the bands and clutches harder and gives firmer shifts. By reducing slippage, it also decreases the amount of heat produced by the clutches and bands and locks the clutch in the torque converter up harder in the higher gears to increase fuel economy. The heat produced by slippage contributes to wearing out the seals, bands and clutches in an automatic more quickly. However, since the transmission controller is programmed to give full line pressure at wide open throttle, this mod just gives rough shifts at part throttle. It's similar to using an HKS ALC (Automatic Line Controller) box. Other ideas to improve shifting with an auto tranny could be to shim the PL solenoid regulator springs to increase peak pressure or to shim the shift accumulator springs to firm up and speed up the shifts. Or you can just swap in a manual!
Now heres my question?
I have the DR mod on my maxima along with a tranny cooler (Hayden #403). I understand that firmer shifts are actually less damaging to an automatic transmission and help to reduce heat. But since firmer shifts reduce transmission tempatures is it manditory to install a trans cooler when doing the DR mod? Or is the trans cooler only necessary when combined with the DR mod due to higher RPM driving?
I personally am all for installing a part or doing a mod if it increases the life of other major components, but seeing as the DR mod will reduce trans tempatures wouldn't it still be more reliable then stock configuration even without a trans cooler?
I have the DR mod on my maxima along with a tranny cooler (Hayden #403). I understand that firmer shifts are actually less damaging to an automatic transmission and help to reduce heat. But since firmer shifts reduce transmission tempatures is it manditory to install a trans cooler when doing the DR mod? Or is the trans cooler only necessary when combined with the DR mod due to higher RPM driving?
I personally am all for installing a part or doing a mod if it increases the life of other major components, but seeing as the DR mod will reduce trans tempatures wouldn't it still be more reliable then stock configuration even without a trans cooler?
Originally Posted by aussie983
Recently on Maxima.org someone posted about a 'drop resistor mod'. When a sensor is disconnected, it allows the full line pressure in the auto tranny which makes shifts faster and more abrupt. I tried this myself and it makes an enormous difference in shift times. Is it harmful to the transmission? Derek Michaels
Full line pressure will be slightly easier on the transmission because it reduces slippage (typically 2-8% for autos) and shift overlap (being in two gears at once when upshifting) due to stronger application forces being directed via the servos to the bands and clutches. This locks up the bands and clutches harder and gives firmer shifts. By reducing slippage, it also decreases the amount of heat produced by the clutches and bands and locks the clutch in the torque converter up harder in the higher gears to increase fuel economy. The heat produced by slippage contributes to wearing out the seals, bands and clutches in an automatic more quickly. However, since the transmission controller is programmed to give full line pressure at wide open throttle, this mod just gives rough shifts at part throttle. It's similar to using an HKS ALC (Automatic Line Controller) box. Other ideas to improve shifting with an auto tranny could be to shim the PL solenoid regulator springs to increase peak pressure or to shim the shift accumulator springs to firm up and speed up the shifts. Or you can just swap in a manual!
Full line pressure will be slightly easier on the transmission because it reduces slippage (typically 2-8% for autos) and shift overlap (being in two gears at once when upshifting) due to stronger application forces being directed via the servos to the bands and clutches. This locks up the bands and clutches harder and gives firmer shifts. By reducing slippage, it also decreases the amount of heat produced by the clutches and bands and locks the clutch in the torque converter up harder in the higher gears to increase fuel economy. The heat produced by slippage contributes to wearing out the seals, bands and clutches in an automatic more quickly. However, since the transmission controller is programmed to give full line pressure at wide open throttle, this mod just gives rough shifts at part throttle. It's similar to using an HKS ALC (Automatic Line Controller) box. Other ideas to improve shifting with an auto tranny could be to shim the PL solenoid regulator springs to increase peak pressure or to shim the shift accumulator springs to firm up and speed up the shifts. Or you can just swap in a manual!
Originally Posted by Big D
Jime, how long have you had the DR mod? Do you have a write-up for the WOT switch or is it in the FAQs?
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