For any of you that have been following my clutch debacle(s)- I went to a shop to check if my clutch problems were due to the pedal being midadjusted. Well it aint so I am sticking to my evaluation.

That the clutchnet kevlar disk is garbage. Dont recommend it and dont buy it. This is not to say that their other disks might be as Fubar. Just stay the @#$@#$ away from the kevlar disk.

Worst $1000 bucks you'll ever spend (with installation). Itll turn your car into a friggin frustration machine. Grr.

 

Wow...thanks for the warning. I had heard that the Kevlar disks weren't that great. Sorry to hear your bad luck.

Want to buy an ACT that needs a new bearing?lol

 

Yeah, thanks. I wasn't focused on any one in particular, but I was leaning towards Kevlar.

Hey Jeff, what have you heard about Kevlar discs?

 

haha...this is funny.

I did a search here to see if I could find the post and it's from Spaniard...the originator of this thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=kevlar
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=kevlar

Spaniard has a bastard tranny that likes to eat clutches for lunch I guess.

j/k
-Jeff

 

My first clutch made it 85K, the problems have all been with the replacements... go OEM IMO, at least you get a warranty.

 

Kevlar is a VERY, VERY strong material. I would also assume that the Kevlar clutches are very sturdy. Saying that I have a hard time imagining how your tranny just went through it. I guess that's what you get for buying a race clutch for daily driving on a car that doesn't even have that much TQ. Maybe it's those ghetto-*** duct vents you call an intake.

 

What did the shop tell you exactly?

 

thankx for the warning

 

You aint that bright, "BIG D" (somehow I think thats wishful thinking haha)

You know, from reading your posts over the last couple months I have thought to myself that you are a rude obnoxious @ss. Now I know that you are also stupid to boot.

Kevlar is strong and long lasting, right. When a compound is like that it also usually means that it is not sticky. See, it's a similar theory to how tires work- for good grip you get reduced wear.

I didnt say that I went through it, I am saying more that its such a damn indestructible clutch that the damn thing doesnt have enough grip to hold. Get it? Keep your own BIG DUCT shut with your dumb @ss statements.

 

dude chill... i know ppl that run a 6 puck clutchnet sprung hub clutch in their maxima maximas with no problem.. The intake has nothing to do with the clutch...

Erjan... I still belive that its something with the pedal adjusment... I'm gonna contact battlemax to see exactly what the mechanic did to his...

 

Cool- thanks, A. FYI the mechanic said that the clutch pedal had the right amount of "play" before it started to engage and so was set up correctly. I wish I had gone with the 6-puck, wouldnt have the problems with the disk material betcha $1000 bucks

 

Anything else? Just because I say it like I see it doesn't mean I'm a rude and obnoxious ***. To all you internet pansies I probably am cause you take everything you see on a forum so ****ing seriously. They are opinions, if I knew you personally it would be more of an attack on my part but since I don't know you I can't just start saying **** just to say it. Like I said before the D stands for Dave, just like it says in the profile. Funny that all the guys think it's stands for ****, hmm, someone needs to get their ***** checked. I'm just wondering why you're running a kevlar disk on a car with low power? There's guys with boost that still use stage 1 and 2 but for some reason you felt you needed more. If I offended you, I thiknk I did, then I'm sorry, I really am.

 

it might be me but you can't really adjust a hydrolic clutch, you can adjust a play but not the clutch itself. If the shop said it then they are complete morans and they prolly screwed up themselves, possibly didn't bleed your clutch all the way thru if the they disconnected the lines.

Or maybe you didn't break it in right.

 

OK so I let my discouragement out in that post. I just have been frustrated by the whole thing, to tell you the truth. But your post was wrong on a couple of points, but that aside-

The kevlar clutch was sold to me as a good way to go, not because I was led to believe it was appropriate for a high power engine but because it was supposed to be solid for what I wanted. Just something that would deliver a solution. My point is that the kevlar disk isnt for high power, apparently it would only work for lower power.

Long story short, Im just saying for other peoples benefit not to go with kevlar unless you want a clutch that sacrafices grip for what I am assuming is long lastingness.

 

Possible but I doubt it, I was pretty methodical and did everything that I knew to break it in right. The few WOTs that I did were to see how it was doing after a decent break in, and it behaved then like it does now, a couple thousand miles later. Simply put, the Kevlar compound slips under high temperatures. My OEM clutch was much better, and I mean the new one I put in a year ago. Well, it was better except for a piece of metal that looked like it was fatigued and snapped off, clogging up the mechanism. When it was replaced the disk was fine... I bet that never happens to anyone else tho...

 

Haha - in one of the threads above maximase86 talks about how my car has the 6-puck and is great.

And now it's doing this:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv

<it's FAR worse in R then in 1st - so I'm assuming no major damage yet>

But I blame it on my own install before I'll blame it on the product - maximase86 and I have the whole tranny uninstall/clutch replacement/re-install down to about 7 hours now - so no big deal - just open her up, check everything out, replace the T/O bearing while I'm there, and put it back together assuming it's just an alignment issue or something....if not - then I'll get a replacement from clutchnet and continue.

(I'm not driving it until we fix it however)

 

did you guys hear about surfacing the flywheel if it's glazed it will make your clutch go to **** in a matter of month. Also it's a good idea to replace rear main seal because if it start leaking your clutch will start slipping too.

You might want to bleed your clutch though but it prolly wouldn't fix your slipping problems, but it would save you from bad tranny and bad clutch story later on.