Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have directions on changing these? Or know of a site that could help me. I know in the how to section there is a DIY for changing one of the injectors but I need to change the entire thing. Please help. Thanks.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Hmmm, sounds serious, what are your symptoms, are you sure it's the whole rail and all injectors ?

maxima98vspec

take off the manifold and everything to get the the injectors and the rail, and then take out the injectors. and then disconect the fuel rail from the incomming lines BUT keep the fuel rail in one piece(both sides) it is not advised that u take the fuel rail apart cause of something i forgot. i guess it is sealed from leaks. and then put on the O rings and stuff like that and slap that BIA back on. its preaty easy.....

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Well I have had a long problem of the engine misfiring accompanied by huge amounts of smoke which leads me to believe one or more of my fuel injectors are bad and thus are sticking open. This happens when the car is warm and most of the times when its restarted after a long drive. No one on ORG could figure it out until someone suggest fuel injectors. I tested them with a multimeter and that didnt show anything so I bought good used fuel injectors plus the rail from another ORG member. I am going to take a look at it and see if I can do it myself. If not then I am going to bring it to my mechanic. If this is not the problem then coil packs are next.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Before you do this make sure it is the injectors. Check the resistance on them or at least get a long screwdriver and listen to them while they work. If you do decide to do this make sure you buy all the gaskets, 1 upper plenum gasket, 2 lower manifold gaskets. Might as well clean the EGR system since you'll have all the crap out of the way. If you get in any trouble just ask. Good luck bud.

Ladzio

iTrader: (8)

Did you check How TOs Stickie!? Read FAQs?

Then check my sig, it covers injectors only though but it is not far from fuel rail at that point.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

yeah I checked the FAQ and found your page where you replaced one of them. I wasnt sure what else was needed for the whole assembly.

I will spend time under the hood tomorrow and figure out which way I should go. BTW, I tested the injectors using the procedure in the FAQ and they all showed resistance. I tried hearing the injectors when its misfiring but its almost impossible to do so with all the shaking and the smoke. I checked the coils and one of them was bad. I thought that was the end up of problems until the next day it resumed with the misfiring. The person who had the car before me had the car stored for 6 months and when I got it showed no problems. A month later it started. After a complete tuneup and a bad coil here I am again with this annoying problem.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

So it's probably a coil. My car is loud at idle and I can hear it fine with a screwdriver on top of it and my ear on the handle. You said you checked the coil but you didn't replace it?

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

First time I experienced the problem, I checked all coils and found one bad. After that it still continued to be problematic. I tested them again recently and they are all equal in ohms. The big clouds of smoke left by the car indicates to be that too much fuel is being throw into a cylinder causing it to flood and misfire somehow. Out of all the cases for coils, none showed symptoms of smoke or fuel like smell. My coolant is fine so its not that shooting down. The car misfires and smokes but does not shut off at all. Usually I am the one who ends up shutting it off cause it feels like something is going to blow up. Then when I restart it, it doesnt wanna turn on. I have to crank it while pushing the gas pedal, basically un flooding the engine bay causes it to start while still misfiring a little. Most of the time I can drive it off and problem goes away. The problem happens every day, every time after I drive and shut the car off. Its really weird and none of my mechanics can diagnose it.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Aren't coils supposed to have infinite resistance? I know the fuel injectors should all be around 12 ohms.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

yes, you are right. I did have infinite resistance on them now that I remember. For some reason, the fuel injectors gave 0 for all of them, not 12. Actually before I do anything, I am going to recheck the resistance of the fuel injectors.

Maxine

Wow i'm kind of scared to change mine now after all this.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Funny thing, the multimeter I bought from Autozone seems to be busted. It gives me 0 on almost everything. Jeezus.

ABK

It could be your MAF seriously the last thing you would go into is injectors. My old 240 used to do it. Ran seafoam thru it, cleaned the EGR, cleaned the IM, rewired the MAF (it worked for a while like a day), then just put in a different maf and it worked fine except it still had idleing problems.

Before it was running rich as hell black clouds of smoke pouring out, whole car shaking like a freaken muscle car with a crazy grind cam, backfired, jerked it was horrible. It did it out of random too, once it would work fine for 5 minutes and later on just bam for like the whole drive.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Yeah but I never got a code for a bad MAF. Its been like this for 3 months and not one code. When I had the bad coil, it gave 0701 and that was it. The light hasnt come on since.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Let me explain when mine does it. Sometimes when I drive the car hard, the car starts to idle crazy (rpms go between 300 to 700 or so) badly and doesnt go away. During this time, my best option is to park it some where and hope that after the car is cooled off then the problem would go away (results in a 30 min wait or so). Also lets say I go to the grocery store now, which is 10 mins away. After I do the grocery shopping (between 10 to 20 mins after), I try to start the car and it starts up but begins to shake badly. Then I quickly put it in drive and drive away like a mad man. Within 30 seconds or so, the drive cures the shaking. It does this every single time, its so freaken annoying and frustrating. Every trip to the grocery store or wherever.

ABK

yeah that's what mine used to do exactly. Your MAF might not even throw a code I seen it once at my old dealership, the car would run like **** wouldn't go past 2,500 rpms and jerk like ****, bad MAF no CEL it was a 5th gen max. Nissan MAFs have a tendency of going, so I would check it out first.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

I dont have a problem of the car not going past 2,500 rpms. It drives much better past 2k as you cant feel it shake much. I already bought the replacement injectors so I might as well put them in. MAF is next if the problem doesnt go away.

ABK

yeah but it was one case 240 I could take all the way up to redline. I would still test the injectors first. Try unplugging them if your tester is messed up see if the engine will run better with one of them off.

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, will try it all tomorrow.

Ladzio

iTrader: (8)

I believe you have problems rather with coils than ingectors. It is so unlikely that so many injectors would fail at same time. They usually last lifetiem of a car on Maximas, fail very seldom.

Do such a simple test if you haven't done yet. It will help you to find out what cylinder is the problem.

- with engine running unplug the coil. If engine seems to run worse and about to stall, that is a good working cylinder.

- if engine runs the same - that is the non-vorking cylinder.

DO this to all six cylinders. After you find what cylinder it is, proceed to find either that is coil or injector. For example swap the coils.

Good Luck!