Outer CV joint (this is long)
06-19-2004, 09:49 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 16
Outer CV joint (this is long)
So my '95 has never needed any major maintenance since we bought it new and it now has 100K on the odometer. It was my wife's car and now its my daily driver in a brutal Northern Virginia to DC commute. I just put it up on jackstands to do the brakes and, WHOA, what's all this grease covering everything in sight on the left front! Took two seconds to discover a huge gash in the outer CV boot. Then I remembered a weird clicking noise coming from the front suspension on Friday when I pulled into the parking garage at work and I thought I would have to check out. Well, I did. My diagnosis is that the outer CV joint is likely toast.
I've just read through the Nissan shop manual and Haynes manual re how to repair the outer CV boot and joint and it looks like a bear. I've done some tranny and rearend work on drag race cars many years ago, but this is my daily driver that I have to depend on. Anyone tackled this job and have any thoughts? Haynes makes a vague reference to a rebuilt axle assembly. Would that be a better way to go, if I can find one? Anyone have a clue what a reasonable price would be to pay someone else to do it? Should I even think about doing the brake job before the CV joint problem is fixed (my concern is all that grease could hose my brake job)?
Sad to say, it appears that I also neglected the clutch fluid level. That's what happens when all you know are the old cars where everything was mechanical linkage and not hydraulic. Now I know the hydraulic ones can leak! I added some fluid last week and bled the system. I thought the clutch was just wearing out, and cursing my wife for the way she drove. However, it must have been the fluid slowly leaking. But, now it sounds like the throwout bearing is not a very happy camper. At least I hope its only the throwout bearing and not the tranny. When the clutch is out in neutral I hear a lot of noise that I did not hear before I added fluid and bled the system. I changed the tranny fluid over to Redline MT-90 at 60K and have never had a shifting problem. Long background explanation to ask if, since the left axle is going to have to come out for the CV joint, should I do the clutch/throwout bearing work at the same time?
This whole thing then just snowballs like crazy. If the tranny has to come out, I think you have to drop the exhaust. Why would I want to put the stock exhaust back on, especially when I have huge chunks of the original muffler starting to rust off? Then I might as well do the front struts (still original, and trashed) at the same time, since everything will be apart, and why would I do the front struts without doing the rear shocks (I've got a set of AGX's just sitting there and waiting)? But, I'm rambling, and first things first. What should I do about the CV joint?
I've just read through the Nissan shop manual and Haynes manual re how to repair the outer CV boot and joint and it looks like a bear. I've done some tranny and rearend work on drag race cars many years ago, but this is my daily driver that I have to depend on. Anyone tackled this job and have any thoughts? Haynes makes a vague reference to a rebuilt axle assembly. Would that be a better way to go, if I can find one? Anyone have a clue what a reasonable price would be to pay someone else to do it? Should I even think about doing the brake job before the CV joint problem is fixed (my concern is all that grease could hose my brake job)?
Sad to say, it appears that I also neglected the clutch fluid level. That's what happens when all you know are the old cars where everything was mechanical linkage and not hydraulic. Now I know the hydraulic ones can leak! I added some fluid last week and bled the system. I thought the clutch was just wearing out, and cursing my wife for the way she drove. However, it must have been the fluid slowly leaking. But, now it sounds like the throwout bearing is not a very happy camper. At least I hope its only the throwout bearing and not the tranny. When the clutch is out in neutral I hear a lot of noise that I did not hear before I added fluid and bled the system. I changed the tranny fluid over to Redline MT-90 at 60K and have never had a shifting problem. Long background explanation to ask if, since the left axle is going to have to come out for the CV joint, should I do the clutch/throwout bearing work at the same time?
This whole thing then just snowballs like crazy. If the tranny has to come out, I think you have to drop the exhaust. Why would I want to put the stock exhaust back on, especially when I have huge chunks of the original muffler starting to rust off? Then I might as well do the front struts (still original, and trashed) at the same time, since everything will be apart, and why would I do the front struts without doing the rear shocks (I've got a set of AGX's just sitting there and waiting)? But, I'm rambling, and first things first. What should I do about the CV joint?
06-19-2004, 10:16 PM
#3
i dont have a clutch but i can shed some light on your cv joint. since its already clicking you have to replace the joint, instead of just the boot. NAPA auto parts only charges $75 each side for the entire axel which includes the inner and outter CV joint. thats the route i would take if i were you. I changed my CV boot couple weeks ago and it wasn't that bad. all the tools can be borrowed from auto parts store. i borrowed the 36mm socket and a 250lb/ft torque wrench from autozone. autozone is the only place i know that lets you borrow torque wrenches. basically all you need to do is take out the 36mm axel nut, the 17 and 19 mm nut and bolt on the strut, separate the hub from the strut and you can then pull it out of the axel. pull out the old axel and slide in the new. on the passenger side theres 3 additional bolts to take off. thats it! i just saved you couple hundred from taking it to a mech.
06-20-2004, 07:41 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 204
Ditto what blk_g20 said on the axel replacement. Did mine two weeks ago and it was relatively easy.
If I remeber correctly you should be able to drop the transmission without tampering with the exhaust. At most you'll need to drop the y pipe at the manifolds for some extra room, so have a couple of new crush gaskets handy for re-installing the pipe.
Given your other issues, I'd get all the nessesary parts together and do the entire job over a two day weekend. Struts, brakes, clutch and hydraulics. Think about suspension bushings and strut mount parts as well. At 100k things will be getting a little tired.
Finally, and I know you wont want to hear this, but don't be too surprised if you need to replace wheel bearings. When doing my axels I discovered the FL bearing was worn out. About 1/4" of play at the hub!!! And there was no noticeable vibration or noises when driving with the bearing that bad. You will have to remove the steering knuckle/hub assembly and have a shop press out the old and install the new bearings.
Good luck ... pm with any questions you have.
Cheers!
If I remeber correctly you should be able to drop the transmission without tampering with the exhaust. At most you'll need to drop the y pipe at the manifolds for some extra room, so have a couple of new crush gaskets handy for re-installing the pipe.
Given your other issues, I'd get all the nessesary parts together and do the entire job over a two day weekend. Struts, brakes, clutch and hydraulics. Think about suspension bushings and strut mount parts as well. At 100k things will be getting a little tired.
Finally, and I know you wont want to hear this, but don't be too surprised if you need to replace wheel bearings. When doing my axels I discovered the FL bearing was worn out. About 1/4" of play at the hub!!! And there was no noticeable vibration or noises when driving with the bearing that bad. You will have to remove the steering knuckle/hub assembly and have a shop press out the old and install the new bearings.
Good luck ... pm with any questions you have.
Cheers!
06-20-2004, 08:03 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 16
Thanks for the suggestions. You make it sound much more doable than the fsm and Haynes, both of which can be scary places if you let them.
I went overly compulsive a couple of months ago and bought all new parts for the struts so I'll be able to assemble the new ones before tearing anything apart and just swap them for the old ones. I realized that things would be pretty tired in there. Thanks for the tip on the bearings, I'll be looking for anything and everything when I take it apart.
I checked with NAPA this morning and the 5 speed w/ABS left axle is a non-stock item. The $75 price is accurate, it will take two days to get it here. While snooping around I found some place called Raxles - http://www.raxles.com/ - that claims to use new outer CVs and says they are better than others. The testimonials include somebody with a '95 Maxima who says that he is going to tell his website about Raxles. Does anyone have any experience with Raxles versus NAPA or anyone else? I won't know how Raxles compare price wise until tomorrow when they will be open.
I went overly compulsive a couple of months ago and bought all new parts for the struts so I'll be able to assemble the new ones before tearing anything apart and just swap them for the old ones. I realized that things would be pretty tired in there. Thanks for the tip on the bearings, I'll be looking for anything and everything when I take it apart.
I checked with NAPA this morning and the 5 speed w/ABS left axle is a non-stock item. The $75 price is accurate, it will take two days to get it here. While snooping around I found some place called Raxles - http://www.raxles.com/ - that claims to use new outer CVs and says they are better than others. The testimonials include somebody with a '95 Maxima who says that he is going to tell his website about Raxles. Does anyone have any experience with Raxles versus NAPA or anyone else? I won't know how Raxles compare price wise until tomorrow when they will be open.
06-20-2004, 01:37 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Raxle, Napa, basically all the same stuff. Which ever is cheaper and faster is the route you should take. Try a few other automotive stores near you to see if they have the axel in stock if your really that desperate for it. Any aftermarket unit should give you a good 100K miles of service.
06-20-2004, 06:59 PM
#7
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 16
It was interesting that all the usual suspect automotive stores had them in stock for autos, both with and w/o ABS. None of them had one in stock for a 5 speed w/ABS; all say they can get one in two to five days with a price spread of almost $40. I'll see tomorrow how much Raxle charges, its always nice to have parts delivered to the front door.
06-20-2004, 07:36 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 204
Originally Posted by mitchman
It was interesting that all the usual suspect automotive stores had them in stock for autos, both with and w/o ABS. None of them had one in stock for a 5 speed w/ABS; all say they can get one in two to five days with a price spread of almost $40. I'll see tomorrow how much Raxle charges, its always nice to have parts delivered to the front door.
I used Raxels when I did my "Great Restoration"! Marty is great to deal with. Mention the .Org and they will not charge you the core charge and provide you pre-paid return shipping labels and even a map with directions to the nearest UPS place to drop em off. Amazing customer service.
That said, they are not cheap. Mine ran $120 and $150 for the left and right units. They are new joints with "remanufactured" shafts, which means cleaned up, checked for straightness and repainted, and obviously new boots. The carrier bearing on the right shaft is already installed and is also new. They came with new inner circlip for the left side and both axels had new nuts and cotter pins.
Autozone, PeepBoys, etc are reground units. Does it matter? Dunno. If its done correctly its likely fine.
I felt it was the best compromise between new OEM at $450 PER SIDE!!!! and bargain basement auto parts stores. If I were thinking of or planning to sell the car anytime in the near future I'd have gone with Autozone/Peepboys stuff and saved the $$
Cheers!
06-21-2004, 06:12 AM
#9
Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 52
Originally Posted by blk_g20
i dont have a clutch but i can shed some light on your cv joint. since its already clicking you have to replace the joint, instead of just the boot. NAPA auto parts only charges $75 each side for the entire axel which includes the inner and outter CV joint. thats the route i would take if i were you. I changed my CV boot couple weeks ago and it wasn't that bad. all the tools can be borrowed from auto parts store. i borrowed the 36mm socket and a 250lb/ft torque wrench from autozone. autozone is the only place i know that lets you borrow torque wrenches. basically all you need to do is take out the 36mm axel nut, the 17 and 19 mm nut and bolt on the strut, separate the hub from the strut and you can then pull it out of the axel. pull out the old axel and slide in the new. on the passenger side theres 3 additional bolts to take off. thats it! i just saved you couple hundred from taking it to a mech.
When you changed your CV boot, did you put your car on a lift like they have in the shop or just a jack stand. My 95 maxima needs the same thing. When I am making left turns, I hear a clicking sound. Thanks,
06-21-2004, 07:11 AM
#10
Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 52
found this link with great instruction on how to change the CV boot: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
06-21-2004, 09:05 AM
#11
yea thats the link i followed when i did mine. i just had it on jack stands. if its already clicking the joint is bad. you need to replace the joint instead of just the boot....incase you didn't know. might as well replace the whole axel as there would be more work involved to change just the joint.
06-21-2004, 09:36 AM
#12
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 16
Just talked to Marty at Raxles. volkl77 is absolutely correct in that Marty is a great guy to talk with, seems very knowledgeable, doesn't hit the org folks with a core charge and provides a pre-paid return shipping label. He also said that they use synthetic grease in the joints and he feels it is superior to others. On the negative side, the left side 5 speed axles have gone up to $150. Marty said they've gone up in price because of so many people switching over to 5 speeds. Ahh, supply and demand. Even though the Raxles cost more, they have a good warranty and Marty seems to support the org - so I supported Marty.
06-21-2004, 10:13 AM
#13
I just put my left side halfshaft up for sale. It's from a 5sp SE with ABS and in good working condition.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=319054
If you're willing to pay overnight shipping I could have it to you tomorrow. PM me if interested as I'm not getting e-mail notifications. Brian
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=319054
If you're willing to pay overnight shipping I could have it to you tomorrow. PM me if interested as I'm not getting e-mail notifications. Brian
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