Link for how to on rear pads ?
#2
They're basically the same as the fronts except make sure you have the special tool to press the caliper piston back in. The piston has to be screwed back into place. Other than that make sure you line up the little dimple on the brake pad onto the hole in the piston and you should be good
#3
I used a pair of needle nose plyers to carefully turn them back in while holding the rubber boot so it didn't tear.
Hope this is a good way of doing it.
Thanks for quick reply.
Done pass side going to do the drivers now.
Martin
Hope this is a good way of doing it.
Thanks for quick reply.
Done pass side going to do the drivers now.
Martin
#4
nah it shouldnt be a problem as long as it screwed back in. Just make sure you put that small dimple into one of the holes in the piston. The first time I changed my rear pads I didnt and I ended up burning up a brand new set of pads
#6
The brake piston has 4 slots in it. The brake pad has a little dimple of metal that sticks out of the back metal section. Just line them up. The first one took a few testfits to get it to sit right.
There done !
Was easier than i'd imagined.
I used some 'raybestos' NS pads. Box also has 'PG PLUS' written on it.
Anyone else have these out back ? How do you like them ?
I didn't turn the rotors as they look nice and flat. Hopefully i'm doing the right thing.
I wanted to order up some oem pads but i put on alot of miles in a day and didn't want to grind the rotors (squeeler was going off on the one side - bent back to quiet)
Hopefully the fronts are good for now.
Thanks for the help , martin
There done !
Was easier than i'd imagined.
I used some 'raybestos' NS pads. Box also has 'PG PLUS' written on it.
Anyone else have these out back ? How do you like them ?
I didn't turn the rotors as they look nice and flat. Hopefully i'm doing the right thing.
I wanted to order up some oem pads but i put on alot of miles in a day and didn't want to grind the rotors (squeeler was going off on the one side - bent back to quiet)
Hopefully the fronts are good for now.
Thanks for the help , martin
#7
Another Q if i may ...
How does the piston re-adjust its self ? I turned them in and they were stiff !!
1/4 turn is a lot of movement !
Another thing i noted was to let the excess air out of the rubber seal. On the driv side when i got the piston in far enough the rubber seal looked all deformed and wouldn't lay into place. Popin' out a bit and would touch the back of the pad. I didn't want it to get ruined so i pulled up a bit of the rubber and le the air out and it went into place nice. Then the other side was bugging me so i had to jack back up and pull the wheel off to check. Turned out to be good.
Martin
How does the piston re-adjust its self ? I turned them in and they were stiff !!
1/4 turn is a lot of movement !
Another thing i noted was to let the excess air out of the rubber seal. On the driv side when i got the piston in far enough the rubber seal looked all deformed and wouldn't lay into place. Popin' out a bit and would touch the back of the pad. I didn't want it to get ruined so i pulled up a bit of the rubber and le the air out and it went into place nice. Then the other side was bugging me so i had to jack back up and pull the wheel off to check. Turned out to be good.
Martin
#9
The piston will get pushed out against the pad.... it is a wierd mechanism which retracts the piston when the piston is screwed, but extends the piston towards the pad when pressure is applied behind the piston by the brake fluid.
#11
Originally Posted by ABK
oh I did that you got me worried, lol.
The piston adjusts itself as soon as you pull the e brake or step on the brakes. The piston comes out by itself but it has to be screwed back in.
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