**Guys With Fidanza**READ**
#82
how many of you guys re-tighten the flywheel bolts after you install them.from what it sounds like to me (and i am no expert) is the flywheels may be shifting off center slightly. not enough to cause major damage but enough to notice. just a thought.
#85
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Originally Posted by slizan99
well, i've had my tranny out three times since I installed the flywheel and I checked the flywheel bolts every time. they were always still torqued to spec.
#86
this is happening to people with all types of clutches....stock/exedy/ACT...I have ACT I am sure people here will tell you they are having problems with theirs and they have different clutches...I know someone with this same problem but he has an exedy. I guess this problem could be solved once and for all if someone would just reinstall their stock flywheel, and not change anything else, and record the results. I personally think this problem is directly related to the flywheel....if a sensor is going out then I think the flywheel is causing this...no one else gets shuttering other than people with fidanza flywheels
#87
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Well whats the next step ?? I may call up Nissan, but a New Flywheel and have it put in...probably another 700$ and ill see if my problem is gone
Or I wait, get the sensors checked and if everything checks out, then Ill wait for this clutch to wear alittle and deal with the problem, then change out the flywheel and clutch
This also gets me mad because alot of guys on here dont have the problem and are running the fidanza just like us..it think maybe the fidanza is just the wrong weight and f's something up
-matt
UPDATE: I called up Fidanza and im waiting for a phone call back...Im going to explain how alot of guys are experiencing the same thing, Ill get a name of the representative and ill pass it along to you guys...if everyone makes a phone call, maybe they will do soemthing for us..sometimes big companies have good customer service
Or I wait, get the sensors checked and if everything checks out, then Ill wait for this clutch to wear alittle and deal with the problem, then change out the flywheel and clutch
This also gets me mad because alot of guys on here dont have the problem and are running the fidanza just like us..it think maybe the fidanza is just the wrong weight and f's something up
-matt
UPDATE: I called up Fidanza and im waiting for a phone call back...Im going to explain how alot of guys are experiencing the same thing, Ill get a name of the representative and ill pass it along to you guys...if everyone makes a phone call, maybe they will do soemthing for us..sometimes big companies have good customer service
#88
I still have my stock flywheel but I dont have time to do this and I am not going to pay someone to do this either...honestly mine has gotten better over time but the problem is still there....it started before I was boosted and now it is less evident now that I am boosted....and it really only happens to me when I am shifting gears...I would not rule out that it has something to do with the humidity...it has been really humid here this summer (this is only a guess though)
#89
weird, ive got exedy/fidanza and dont seem to have bog or shutter... seems like it isnt the flywheel itself, but just a related problem, i dont know. does anyone have this problem with a stillen/unorthodox flywheel?
#90
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Well I have boost ready to go on but I wanted to get this fixed before boost goes on...Maybe ill put it and see if it helps...
Do you guys that are having the problem, have MEVI's ??
-matt
Do you guys that are having the problem, have MEVI's ??
-matt
#91
Originally Posted by matty
Do you think the flywheel is causing this ?? wat clutch you using ? I cant see how cause once its clamped, then how can it hesitate, stumble like its doing
I was running a spec stage 1 clutch, but i thought this problem was clutch related. so I bought a new stock clutch and installed that. same issue. i'm wondering if the fidanza flywheel isn't a little thinner than the stock flywheel. if it is than the clutch pedal could be out of adjustment, causing the clutch to not completely disengaged (when I say disengaged I mean that the clutch should be fully in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate.) thats my theory for now. I talked to the guy where I got the flywheel and spec clutch from. he says he's been in the clutch and flywheel business a long time and he had never heard of anything like this. heres the link to his site.
http://www.clutchexpress.com
#93
don't call them and start **** untill we know IF the flywheel is the problem FOR SURE. its pointless to p!ss off a good aftermarket company like fidanza until we have the evidence to support our b!tching.
#94
I have the same exact shuttering problem guys. I have the Fidanza and ACT HDMM. I mostly feel the shutter when shifting to 3rd and 4th, It grabs 2nd pretty hard.
if it was a sensor issue, wouldnt it do it every shifting of gear?
Ill stay tuned to this thread.
if it was a sensor issue, wouldnt it do it every shifting of gear?
Ill stay tuned to this thread.
#95
Yup...same here, 3-4 shift....but also, generally at any normal driving RPM's..if I blip the throttle, it'll BOG, BOG, BOG, then accelerate. Obviously it's a flywheel problem. Alot of us have the same exact problem, 1 thing in common, FIDANZA FLYWHEEL! I think thats evidence enough for me
#96
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I called today but everyone at Fidanza were in a meeting when I called. I left all my information but didnt get a call back. no big deal, Ill call tomorrow
NOBODY CALL BUT ME Till I talk to someone that can help us
I will call tomorrow and talk to a tech, and explain the problem everyone is having regardless of the clutch they are using. They will be very interested to hear the symtoms I and many people are having.
After that, I will give everyone a name and extention and everyone that is having the problem, should call up...DONT call up flipping out and p*ss them off..Ill start a new thread tomorrow with all the information..
Now were getting somwhere..
-matt
ps..I think its in the design of the flywheel, either thickness, or the setback of the friction disk from the actual flywheel
NOBODY CALL BUT ME Till I talk to someone that can help us
I will call tomorrow and talk to a tech, and explain the problem everyone is having regardless of the clutch they are using. They will be very interested to hear the symtoms I and many people are having.
After that, I will give everyone a name and extention and everyone that is having the problem, should call up...DONT call up flipping out and p*ss them off..Ill start a new thread tomorrow with all the information..
Now were getting somwhere..
-matt
ps..I think its in the design of the flywheel, either thickness, or the setback of the friction disk from the actual flywheel
#97
Originally Posted by matty
I called today but everyone at Fidanza were in a meeting when I called. I left all my information but didnt get a call back. no big deal, Ill call tomorrow
NOBODY CALL BUT ME Till I talk to someone that can help us
I will call tomorrow and talk to a tech, and explain the problem everyone is having regardless of the clutch they are using. They will be very interested to hear the symtoms I and many people are having.
After that, I will give everyone a name and extention and everyone that is having the problem, should call up...DONT call up flipping out and p*ss them off..Ill start a new thread tomorrow with all the information..
Now were getting somwhere..
-matt
ps..I think its in the design of the flywheel, either thickness, or the setback of the friction disk from the actual flywheel
NOBODY CALL BUT ME Till I talk to someone that can help us
I will call tomorrow and talk to a tech, and explain the problem everyone is having regardless of the clutch they are using. They will be very interested to hear the symtoms I and many people are having.
After that, I will give everyone a name and extention and everyone that is having the problem, should call up...DONT call up flipping out and p*ss them off..Ill start a new thread tomorrow with all the information..
Now were getting somwhere..
-matt
ps..I think its in the design of the flywheel, either thickness, or the setback of the friction disk from the actual flywheel
thanks for taking the lead on this matt
Jake
#100
I created a list of people who are experiencing or have experienced this shuttering problem. Add to it.
1. matty Fidanza/ACT
2. spindation Fidanza/ACT
3. Lurchdogg11 Fidanza/ACT
4. I30tMikeD Fidanza/???
5. jcy98maxse Fidanza/Exedy
6. cardana24 Fidanza/ACT
7. DonSupreme Stillen/ACT
8. slizan99 Fidanza/Spec
9. Requin6 Fidanza/Exedy
10. JeEvE Fidanza/Exedy
11. PoePoe2797 Fidanza/OEM
12. billy_corgan Fidanza/ACT
1. matty Fidanza/ACT
2. spindation Fidanza/ACT
3. Lurchdogg11 Fidanza/ACT
4. I30tMikeD Fidanza/???
5. jcy98maxse Fidanza/Exedy
6. cardana24 Fidanza/ACT
7. DonSupreme Stillen/ACT
8. slizan99 Fidanza/Spec
9. Requin6 Fidanza/Exedy
10. JeEvE Fidanza/Exedy
11. PoePoe2797 Fidanza/OEM
12. billy_corgan Fidanza/ACT
#101
Don't know if this helps. Taken from the Fidanza website.
"For vehicles equipped with sensors triggered off of the flywheel, measure the clearance between the flywheel and trigger before
removal of the original flywheel. This clearance must be matched after installation of your new flywheel. This may require shimming for
clearance or moving the senor in. Failure to do so will result in a vehicle that runs poorly or not at all.
Apply a small amount of Loctite to the OD of your pilot bearing when installing it in your new flywheel. The fit is not as tight as your OEM
steel flywheel as the aluminum flywheel and steel bearing heat differently. The flywheel must be designed this way to work properly.
Clutch threaded bolt holes are USS (coarse thread) or standard Metric as this is stronger for aluminum.
If your flywheel uses dowels for the clutch, the dowels should be pressed in with a vise. You must apply a small amount permanent
Loctite on each dowel before installation.
Follow the OEM specifications for the torque and replacement of the flywheel to crank bolts and clutch mounting bolts.
Do not use Loctite on the crank register because it prevents the flywheel from properly seating against the crank.
Dual Mass replacement flywheels may cause added gearbox noise. This is a normal effect that is well worth the added performance.
The noise comes from the idler gears and does not pose a premature wear problem
Inspect flywheel whenever possible for fatigue cracks.
Some of the most critical areas to inspect are:
(1) The crankshaft register
(2) Flywheel to crank mounting holes
(3) Ring Gear
Extreme heat can adversely affect the dowels and ring gear. For performance use vehicles special dowels are available. Extreme heat
can, as with any flywheel, affect the ring gear causing the ring gear to grow and not return to it’s static diameter. Precautions must be
taken in performance use vehicles for this situation.
The use of a scatter shield for the clutch and flywheel area is a must in all performance use vehicles.
"For vehicles equipped with sensors triggered off of the flywheel, measure the clearance between the flywheel and trigger before
removal of the original flywheel. This clearance must be matched after installation of your new flywheel. This may require shimming for
clearance or moving the senor in. Failure to do so will result in a vehicle that runs poorly or not at all.
Apply a small amount of Loctite to the OD of your pilot bearing when installing it in your new flywheel. The fit is not as tight as your OEM
steel flywheel as the aluminum flywheel and steel bearing heat differently. The flywheel must be designed this way to work properly.
Clutch threaded bolt holes are USS (coarse thread) or standard Metric as this is stronger for aluminum.
If your flywheel uses dowels for the clutch, the dowels should be pressed in with a vise. You must apply a small amount permanent
Loctite on each dowel before installation.
Follow the OEM specifications for the torque and replacement of the flywheel to crank bolts and clutch mounting bolts.
Do not use Loctite on the crank register because it prevents the flywheel from properly seating against the crank.
Dual Mass replacement flywheels may cause added gearbox noise. This is a normal effect that is well worth the added performance.
The noise comes from the idler gears and does not pose a premature wear problem
Inspect flywheel whenever possible for fatigue cracks.
Some of the most critical areas to inspect are:
(1) The crankshaft register
(2) Flywheel to crank mounting holes
(3) Ring Gear
Extreme heat can adversely affect the dowels and ring gear. For performance use vehicles special dowels are available. Extreme heat
can, as with any flywheel, affect the ring gear causing the ring gear to grow and not return to it’s static diameter. Precautions must be
taken in performance use vehicles for this situation.
The use of a scatter shield for the clutch and flywheel area is a must in all performance use vehicles.
#102
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Matty had Exedy not ACT, but I did experience the same exect thing when I had my ACT so mark me down for both
Billy_corgan: Very interesting information about the sensors..I have been thinking about what could be causing this studderin/hesitation im gettin..The only sensor thats down there is right in the front of the bellhousing..I cant think of any other sensor.
This is really getting me pi**ed off...Im really close to calling Nissan and gettin a stock flywheel...and starting all over
The shread of dought is my macanic telling me that there is no way an aftermarket flywheel would cause this
Billy_corgan: Very interesting information about the sensors..I have been thinking about what could be causing this studderin/hesitation im gettin..The only sensor thats down there is right in the front of the bellhousing..I cant think of any other sensor.
This is really getting me pi**ed off...Im really close to calling Nissan and gettin a stock flywheel...and starting all over
The shread of dought is my macanic telling me that there is no way an aftermarket flywheel would cause this
#103
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Well I havent made any phone calls yet because we are not 100% sure what the problem is, and were not totally sure its the flywheel...alittle more research and ill call...I wanna rule out the sensors gone bad and the coils
]-matt
]-matt
#106
if you look in this picture you will see that the friction surface on the fidanza is attached with screws. I believe that the steel friction surface insert is not thick enough. I remember looking at it closely and noticed that it was sunk in to the surface of the flywheel where as the stock one was almost raised.
#107
Originally Posted by slizan99
I was running a spec stage 1 clutch, but i thought this problem was clutch related. so I bought a new stock clutch and installed that. same issue. i'm wondering if the fidanza flywheel isn't a little thinner than the stock flywheel. if it is than the clutch pedal could be out of adjustment, causing the clutch to not completely disengaged (when I say disengaged I mean that the clutch should be fully in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate.) thats my theory for now. I talked to the guy where I got the flywheel and spec clutch from. he says he's been in the clutch and flywheel business a long time and he had never heard of anything like this. heres the link to his site.
http://www.clutchexpress.com
http://www.clutchexpress.com
my clutch still slips on a hard shift to 2nd, so I think I might not have finished the break-in. but the bog is there; 90% of the time it doesn't happen, but it's there.
#108
Originally Posted by Larry H
I have a Spec stage 1 with my fidanza. broken in about 800 miles, and I have the bog. originally I had a different problem which I thought was what you guys were talking about, but it turns out one plug was fouled.
my clutch still slips on a hard shift to 2nd, so I think I might not have finished the break-in. but the bog is there; 90% of the time it doesn't happen, but it's there.
my clutch still slips on a hard shift to 2nd, so I think I might not have finished the break-in. but the bog is there; 90% of the time it doesn't happen, but it's there.
I had the slip on a hard shift to second as well. I think that the fidanza chewed up my spec clutch pretty good. after 6 months it was d@mn near toast. and that was with pretty much normal driving (I.E. not launching at every light, street racing, etc...)
#110
I have done the 5spd conv. but i have also owned a stock 98 I30t 5spd and understand how unmodified shifting feels like. The other day it was extremely humid outside and i noticed my car "bog"ed about twice as bad as normal. I know cardana24 mentioned something about humidity earlier.
Just wondering if anyone was running a wideband o2 on there cars. Just curious to see AF ratio is in high load situations (lots of throttle low revs). I don't know why but I just have a feeling it has to to do with AF.
My clutch seems to grab just fine. The normal shuddering when engaged with to low revs but that seems to be normal with fidanza flywheel and ACT clutch (also on my miata). Seems to grab well with launches and spirited driving.
Also i have noticed that being instantly off-on the throttle (even to only 10% throttle) even around 3k rpm creates a "bog". But leaning into the pedal for a half second then WOT creates no "bog" at the same rpm. Obviously the lower the rpm (higher load) the worse the "bog" gets.
Still searching for the answer.......
Just wondering if anyone was running a wideband o2 on there cars. Just curious to see AF ratio is in high load situations (lots of throttle low revs). I don't know why but I just have a feeling it has to to do with AF.
My clutch seems to grab just fine. The normal shuddering when engaged with to low revs but that seems to be normal with fidanza flywheel and ACT clutch (also on my miata). Seems to grab well with launches and spirited driving.
Also i have noticed that being instantly off-on the throttle (even to only 10% throttle) even around 3k rpm creates a "bog". But leaning into the pedal for a half second then WOT creates no "bog" at the same rpm. Obviously the lower the rpm (higher load) the worse the "bog" gets.
Still searching for the answer.......
#111
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Originally Posted by spindation
I have done the 5spd conv. but i have also owned a stock 98 I30t 5spd and understand how unmodified shifting feels like. The other day it was extremely humid outside and i noticed my car "bog"ed about twice as bad as normal. I know cardana24 mentioned something about humidity earlier.
Just wondering if anyone was running a wideband o2 on there cars. Just curious to see AF ratio is in high load situations (lots of throttle low revs). I don't know why but I just have a feeling it has to to do with AF.
My clutch seems to grab just fine. The normal shuddering when engaged with to low revs but that seems to be normal with fidanza flywheel and ACT clutch (also on my miata). Seems to grab well with launches and spirited driving.
Also i have noticed that being instantly off-on the throttle (even to only 10% throttle) even around 3k rpm creates a "bog". But leaning into the pedal for a half second then WOT creates no "bog" at the same rpm. Obviously the lower the rpm (higher load) the worse the "bog" gets.
Still searching for the answer.......
Just wondering if anyone was running a wideband o2 on there cars. Just curious to see AF ratio is in high load situations (lots of throttle low revs). I don't know why but I just have a feeling it has to to do with AF.
My clutch seems to grab just fine. The normal shuddering when engaged with to low revs but that seems to be normal with fidanza flywheel and ACT clutch (also on my miata). Seems to grab well with launches and spirited driving.
Also i have noticed that being instantly off-on the throttle (even to only 10% throttle) even around 3k rpm creates a "bog". But leaning into the pedal for a half second then WOT creates no "bog" at the same rpm. Obviously the lower the rpm (higher load) the worse the "bog" gets.
Still searching for the answer.......
I had a macanic drive it today and sais it cant be the flywheel...once the flywheel is clamped onto the clutch, they act as "One"...they are part of the driveline of the car...no way that causes a bog unless that front sensor is not the same distance away from the sensor on the flywheel...(there is one flywheel sensor and thats on the front of the bellhousing)...I drove in Mecca's car with stock flywheel, and I felt it the same way...not as bad but there...
This macanic thinks its something ignition related, Coils...I will talk with him tomorrow in detail and Im bringing it back to the tranny shop that just did the tranny and Im going to have him take it for a ride..
Slizan99..if you look at the flywheel friction disk, it is actually raised...when I took the flywheel out after the ACT was in the car, the friction disk was burned so I ordered one from Fidanza ($90)...(it took Fidanza three different deliveries of this disk to get it right....supposidly there were 3 different designs of this flywheel)
My car was born a 5spd, not a conversion
-matt
#113
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Hey Bruce,
Im doing alot of leg work too...Im trying to get to the bottom of this problem as fast as I possibly can...If it means rippin out the fidanza and puttin in a brand new stock flywheel, I will...but lets wheane out the cheaper things and have some things tested, not just jump on the fidanza when someimes it doenst really make logical sence
-matt
Im doing alot of leg work too...Im trying to get to the bottom of this problem as fast as I possibly can...If it means rippin out the fidanza and puttin in a brand new stock flywheel, I will...but lets wheane out the cheaper things and have some things tested, not just jump on the fidanza when someimes it doenst really make logical sence
-matt
#114
Originally Posted by matty
Yea me too..I have the same thing..Even at 80 in 3rd If I blip the throttle it bogs, but if I lay into it nice and easy, it takes off..>Very hard to pinpoint what the problem is, but Ill get it soon
I had a macanic drive it today and sais it cant be the flywheel...once the flywheel is clamped onto the clutch, they act as "One"...they are part of the driveline of the car...no way that causes a bog unless that front sensor is not the same distance away from the sensor on the flywheel...(there is one flywheel sensor and thats on the front of the bellhousing)...I drove in Mecca's car with stock flywheel, and I felt it the same way...not as bad but there...
This macanic thinks its something ignition related, Coils...I will talk with him tomorrow in detail and Im bringing it back to the tranny shop that just did the tranny and Im going to have him take it for a ride..
Slizan99..if you look at the flywheel friction disk, it is actually raised...when I took the flywheel out after the ACT was in the car, the friction disk was burned so I ordered one from Fidanza ($90)...(it took Fidanza three different deliveries of this disk to get it right....supposidly there were 3 different designs of this flywheel)
My car was born a 5spd, not a conversion
-matt
I had a macanic drive it today and sais it cant be the flywheel...once the flywheel is clamped onto the clutch, they act as "One"...they are part of the driveline of the car...no way that causes a bog unless that front sensor is not the same distance away from the sensor on the flywheel...(there is one flywheel sensor and thats on the front of the bellhousing)...I drove in Mecca's car with stock flywheel, and I felt it the same way...not as bad but there...
This macanic thinks its something ignition related, Coils...I will talk with him tomorrow in detail and Im bringing it back to the tranny shop that just did the tranny and Im going to have him take it for a ride..
Slizan99..if you look at the flywheel friction disk, it is actually raised...when I took the flywheel out after the ACT was in the car, the friction disk was burned so I ordered one from Fidanza ($90)...(it took Fidanza three different deliveries of this disk to get it right....supposidly there were 3 different designs of this flywheel)
My car was born a 5spd, not a conversion
-matt
its hard to tell by these low-res pictures, but my friction surface is actually sunk in by a millimeter or so. if there were three different designs of this flywheel, then maybe we're getting somewhere. maybe fidanza has more info on this issue than they're letting on.
#115
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Well I talked to the macanic that drove it yesterday and he said Either something is lose (motor mount, somerthing up fonrt in the driveline) Or when the engine moves its coming off of ground somwhere on the car and thats whats causing it...now I have have to go the place that put in the tranny and talk to steve
#117
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Well maybe everyones situation is kinda different
We all didnt drive each others car so we all cant tell exactly that there all the same problem and the same thing is happening. Ive been going to these few macanic's since i bought the car and only one has driven it so far..the other two will be driving it hopefully monday
I would like to know that its definetly the flywheel, if it is, but the more and more I think about the more and more it just doesnt make sence. We have one sensor on the front of the bellhousing, but if that was bad than you would feel it registering wrong throughout the rpm band.
-matt
We all didnt drive each others car so we all cant tell exactly that there all the same problem and the same thing is happening. Ive been going to these few macanic's since i bought the car and only one has driven it so far..the other two will be driving it hopefully monday
I would like to know that its definetly the flywheel, if it is, but the more and more I think about the more and more it just doesnt make sence. We have one sensor on the front of the bellhousing, but if that was bad than you would feel it registering wrong throughout the rpm band.
-matt
#118
$100 it's the flywheel. People with other types of cars report the same drivability issues, some worse than others. Adding a high capacity clutch only compounds the problem. I don't think the clutch is slipping either. That doesn't make any sense because the clutch isn't under much load on low rpm part throttle shifts. Plus why would the clutch slip at lower rpms and then be able to grab on hard high rpm shifts?
I think the problems lie in the following:
1) The ECU is smart and somehow, some where, the various crank and rpm sensors get slightly confused by the reduced rotational inertia when driving within the open loop fuel program. WRX guys constantly see CELs just by switching to a lightened flywheel. The ECU sees the reduced inertia as a misfire. Maybe the VQ is seeing a similiar problem and is trying to correct for it, but without throwing a code.
2) The flywheel crank sensor could get slightly confused by the light flywheel. I've never looked at this particular sensor, but I'd assume it uses the same magnetized pickup as the passenger side crank sensor. Maybe the flywheel magnet (assuming) doesn't have quite the magnetizm as the stocker. It's the Fidanza flywheel largely comprised of alumninum and the stocker is steel?
3) Maybe this flywheel "ring" that Fidanza doesn't use is somehow the culprit.
4) Maybe it's a combo of all above (most likely)
IMO, this is something that comes with running lightened engine component and you'll probably have to live with it. The motor was tuned to run with a certain amount of drag and interia and taking some of that out could be causing the ECU to hiccup on occasion. It's too odd that a bunch of you are reporting the same exact problem and you all have Fidanza flywheels. I don't think the problem is mechanical (ie coils, mount, etc) instead I think it's sensor related.
I think the problems lie in the following:
1) The ECU is smart and somehow, some where, the various crank and rpm sensors get slightly confused by the reduced rotational inertia when driving within the open loop fuel program. WRX guys constantly see CELs just by switching to a lightened flywheel. The ECU sees the reduced inertia as a misfire. Maybe the VQ is seeing a similiar problem and is trying to correct for it, but without throwing a code.
2) The flywheel crank sensor could get slightly confused by the light flywheel. I've never looked at this particular sensor, but I'd assume it uses the same magnetized pickup as the passenger side crank sensor. Maybe the flywheel magnet (assuming) doesn't have quite the magnetizm as the stocker. It's the Fidanza flywheel largely comprised of alumninum and the stocker is steel?
3) Maybe this flywheel "ring" that Fidanza doesn't use is somehow the culprit.
4) Maybe it's a combo of all above (most likely)
IMO, this is something that comes with running lightened engine component and you'll probably have to live with it. The motor was tuned to run with a certain amount of drag and interia and taking some of that out could be causing the ECU to hiccup on occasion. It's too odd that a bunch of you are reporting the same exact problem and you all have Fidanza flywheels. I don't think the problem is mechanical (ie coils, mount, etc) instead I think it's sensor related.
#119
Matt,
I didn't mean to imply that you are sitting on your butt and not doing anything. I really do feel for you bro. And just to let you know, I believe we have a similar but not identical issue here.
I didn't mean to imply that you are sitting on your butt and not doing anything. I really do feel for you bro. And just to let you know, I believe we have a similar but not identical issue here.
#120
It has to be the flywheel that is the problem. I noticed the problem right after mine went in. I have a leaky rear main seal so everything is going to be coming out soon. I can put the stock flywheel back in but Im not sure if its worth taking the Fidanza out since it was $300 or so. It does feel better but the boging is getting annoying. Heres some pics I took when I did my clutch job.
Fidanza and stock flywheel
Fidanza
Fidanza and stock flywheel
Fidanza