failed smog, OBD pulled these codes
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,057
From: San Francisco, CA
failed smog, OBD pulled these codes
i went to get my smog done today, and failed it. their OBD scanner pulled the folowing;
"P0105 MAP/BARO CKT Malfunction"
what does this mean and what do i have to fix?
"P0105 MAP/BARO CKT Malfunction"
what does this mean and what do i have to fix?
There are a few possible causes of this P code.
A: An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.
- Check Harness or connectors (Absolute pressure sensor circut is open or shorted)
- Check Absolute Pressure Sensor (Failed)
B: A low voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM under heavy load driving conditions.
- Check Absolute Pressure Sensor (Failed)
C: A high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM under light load driving conditions.
- Check Hoses (Hoses between ithe intake manifold and the absolute pressure sensor are disconnected or clogged.)
- Intake air leaks
- Absolute Pressure Sensor (Failed)
The diagnosis for can be done with or without a scan tool. But at the mininum you need to have a basic understanding of auto electrical and a digital volt ohm meter. The sensor is located in front of the throttle body near the rocker cover and will have a vacuum hose running to it.
A: An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.
- Check Harness or connectors (Absolute pressure sensor circut is open or shorted)
- Check Absolute Pressure Sensor (Failed)
B: A low voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM under heavy load driving conditions.
- Check Absolute Pressure Sensor (Failed)
C: A high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM under light load driving conditions.
- Check Hoses (Hoses between ithe intake manifold and the absolute pressure sensor are disconnected or clogged.)
- Intake air leaks
- Absolute Pressure Sensor (Failed)
The diagnosis for can be done with or without a scan tool. But at the mininum you need to have a basic understanding of auto electrical and a digital volt ohm meter. The sensor is located in front of the throttle body near the rocker cover and will have a vacuum hose running to it.
Well - you're probably looking at an hour for diagnosis and according to my labor guide, you're looking at .5 hour to replace the sensor. Then the price of the part which unless you've got a hookup at the parts counter will probably be expensive for the sole reason it's a dealer part. Assume $85 an hour for labor.
If you got out of there for $350 assuming it's just the sensor, then you'd probably be pretty lucky. I checked the price of an aftermarket sensor from rockauto.com and it listed for $155. So a dealer part will probably be $200+.
However if the problem is an intermittent caused by the wiring or it's a supply issue from the ECM, then you'll be looking at much more $$$. The other possibility is clearing the code and drive around for a while and see if it comes back. If not, go get the car smogged before the code sets again.
If you got out of there for $350 assuming it's just the sensor, then you'd probably be pretty lucky. I checked the price of an aftermarket sensor from rockauto.com and it listed for $155. So a dealer part will probably be $200+.
However if the problem is an intermittent caused by the wiring or it's a supply issue from the ECM, then you'll be looking at much more $$$. The other possibility is clearing the code and drive around for a while and see if it comes back. If not, go get the car smogged before the code sets again.
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6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
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Sep 2, 2015 09:53 PM




