I need some advice about a worn CV boot. I was getting my new Y-pipe installed (needed bolts torched off), and while the car was on the lift the muffler guy pointed out my front right CV boot. It was worn and showing some cracks in it. He didn't offer to fix it, mind you, so he wasn't hitting me up for cash, he just pointed it out.

Here's my question, should I just replace the boot itself? Or change the joint? Or change the whole axle? Apparently the install time is the same for all three and costs about $70 in labor at a few places I called.

Some Info:

1) I don't know how long it has been in this condition, but I've never seen any leaking from the joint.

2) I drove around in a tight circle (as far as the wheel would turn) in both directions, and the car was silent. No clicking noises that would usually indicate that the bearings had been damaged.

3) A new CV boot is cheap (~$50 for OEM) while an aftermarket axle with a lifetime warranty costs around $175 according to one of the nissan dealer guys I spoke with on the phone. I don't know how much an OEM joint costs, but I bet its more than the entire aftermarket axle.

So, what do you think? Take my chances and replace the boot only, or replace the whole axle?

 

Just get a refabed axle from autozone or napa it's like $70 after you return the core. Works great for me.

 

i just did BOTH of my front axels today... cost me $170 before core charge for both. Big thanks to Araffio for helpin me out.

Just replace the whole thing, its not worth the time to just change the boot itself.

Ant

 

I guess I'll be changing out the full axle then.

Forgive me for my ignorance of axles and drive shafts, but what do you mean by "returning the core"? Does that mean giving them my old axle so they can refurbish it or something?

Last thing: Is it better to buy a new aftermarket axle with a lifetime warranty, or to get a less expensive refabricated one? I plan to keep the car for a while if that's any consideration. Best place to buy either one for cheap?


Thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate the advice.

 

yeah, that's pretty much what the core is. You give them your old part in exchange for money off of your new part. you do taht with alot of parts, like the calipers or the starter.

 

Looks like you have already made up your mind, but I will let you know what I did. The only reason I replaced my axle was becasue the CV boot was already ripped on that side, and the joint would not have lasted much longer. Once it rips it is better to replace as dirt gets in there and will ruin your joint. On the other side I replaced the boot when it showed some signs of wear, and I have not had any issues with it. I had forgotten to replace the other boot when I had my bearing installed otherwise I would have had the Nissan dealership just install a new CV boot before it ripped.

I would just get a CV boot if that is all you need, just as long as it is not showing any grease. If it is then get an axle. If you have time I recommend www.raxles.com . I did not use them because I did not have time to wait for it to come it. I bought one from a local shop but at least it has a lifetime warranty.

 

Thanks for the advice man. There doesn't seem to be any grease that has leaked and their is no clicking sound (it's perfectly quiet at full turn, like it should be). I'll give it one last careful look. If none of the cracks looks like they've gotten very deep I think I'll take your advice and just change the boot. It'll save me some money.

Of course, if I find that I can get a refabricated axle for cheap, maybe it would pay to change the whole thing just as insurance. I'll have to check out raxles.com and see what the deal is.

It sounds like you've changed both front CV joints or boots on your 1996 maxima. Is it inevitable that I'll have to change the other side, too? I've got 116k miles on the beast (almost problem-free, too, with the exception of normal maintenance stuff).

By the way, thanks for the input everyone!

 

No problem .

I just replaced one axle, the one with the ripped CV boot. The other CV boot was replaced before it ripped, so my CV joint was not compromised.

Get under the car and spread in between the grooves of the boot . If you look closely you will probably find small superficial cracks on it just like the ones on the other side. At your mileage I would just change out the other boot, and that way you wont have any surprises.

For the axles go with www.raxles.com . The cost may be a little more that what you would pay at a shop, but the ones from your local shops or auto parts store are not of the same quality as the ones from raxles.

 

IF you caught it before it had a chance to spray out the grease then all you need is the boot...the bearing goes bad ONLY if it gets wet and has a chance to build corrosion....then you'll hear the clacking noise....dealer price $49 (cv boot kit)i went to discount auto parts $12 (same kit)I got that 1... what the hells the difference?...took and hour to replace only because i didnt have the right size socket 4 the axle bolt.

 

You can get boot kits for about $12 each. That's two for each side. If your boots are not torn, that may be the way to go. Some refurb cv axles do not last because sometimes core returns are in bad shape and they don't do much with the remanufacturing. A lifetime warranty is useless if you have to replae your axles every 15k miles. Changing the boot is easy albeit a little messy.

 

I'm not sure that changing the boot is always so easy, especially for cars in colder areas (they use lots of salt). Check out this link if you want to see a few nightmare stories of DIYers who had major problems with rust-fused parts that even 5 ton pullers wouldn't remove.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/show...p?threadid=494

I think that for $70 I'll avoid the nightmares and let the auto shop do it. My car is a 1995 and has been through many salty winters. That's why half the bolts on my original exhaust needed to be torched off the other day when I wanted to replace the exhaust (and I thought I would install the y-pipe and catback myself! Ha!)



POLL A (add $70 for install)

1) Change boots only with $12 jobbies

2) Change boots only with OEM for $50)

3) Get remanufactured axle ($79 , but can it be trusted?)

4) Get new axle from raxles.com ($150)


POLL B

1) Change ONE side (the one that the muffler place pointed out)

2) Change BOTH sides at the same time to avoid future troubles


POLL C (some recommend changing these with the CV/axle)

1) Leave tranmission seals alone

2) Change transmission seals when I get CV/axle done at the shop



WOW! So many options. If you guys offer the most reasonable answer to those three questions, I will be set to go. I'm glad other people have some experience with this stuff. Thanks!

 

I took a good look at the CV joint again. This time I turned the wheel all the way before checking it - now I can see that the crack is all the way through and pretty bad. Surprising how it's still so quiet. High chance that the ball has been contaminated given the size of the crack when wheel is fully turned to the left.

So, now it's between refabbed and new raxles.com axle...

Also, still question on whether to just change both at once...

 

It'll probably stay quiet for a long, long time. My outer boots on both sides have broken, and both were run for nearly a year before being replaced (one still hasn't). Just ordered passenger side axle from raxles.com Friday, now waiting on UPS.

 

I trust my remaf axle, I wouldn't be scared to put alot of power on it. The only thing that I could be concerned about is the boots, but if they decide to rip I will just replace them myself.

 

I can't believe how often my CV boots go bad. About every 20K miles I have to do something. Car's in the shop again 'cause the right front is clicking. I'm in the south so no salt, no extreme hot/cold temps, so don't know what the deal is...

 

Perhaps the lowering? Did they go before you got the springs? I've only had them go since I got over 90K.

 

No, it was happening before the spring install. I think I'm just hard on 'em. Right now it's "clicking", but the shop says the boot is intact so don't worry about it.