CV Axle Repair Question
CV Axle Repair Question
For those of you who have done this repair I have a specific question.
The 3 bolts on the axle carrier bearing on the passenger side. 2 of those bolts seems fairly easy to take out. The third bolt seems like it's being blocked by the catalytic. Any tips on how to get all three bolts out?
Did you have to drop or move anything out of the way or does it just take patience and time to remove?
Any help and contributions greatly appreciated.
The 3 bolts on the axle carrier bearing on the passenger side. 2 of those bolts seems fairly easy to take out. The third bolt seems like it's being blocked by the catalytic. Any tips on how to get all three bolts out?
Did you have to drop or move anything out of the way or does it just take patience and time to remove?
Any help and contributions greatly appreciated.
Last edited by ZerotoSixty; Aug 4, 2015 at 10:44 AM.
I used 2 long extensions with a u-joint between the 2 extensions. That put my wrench back by the transmission.
In situations like this, I recommend that you use a 6 point socket. It gets a better grip on the bolt head or nut.
In situations like this, I recommend that you use a 6 point socket. It gets a better grip on the bolt head or nut.
Thanks for the heads up. If it can be done without moving anything around or undoing anything else I will just mess with it until I get it. I have all sorts of extensions and u joints as well as flex head sockets.
I forgot to mention that this is for the passenger-side. so does your statement still stand correct?
I was referring to the passenger side axle because you did say it was the passenger side.
Even if you hadn't mentioned it, the clue that would have tipped me off was "axle carrier bearing". Only the right side has one.
Even if you hadn't mentioned it, the clue that would have tipped me off was "axle carrier bearing". Only the right side has one.
That 3rd bolt can be a real PITA. I did this a couple years ago and it still haunts my dreams. It takes a lot of time and patience. I think I took off the plastic side panel to give me some more room. I also did it without a lift and had it on jack stands in order to make it as difficult as possible.
I think I finally ended up using a very small open ended ratcheting wrench. I couldn't get very much leverage on it, though.
You could try spraying some PB blaster on it if it's seized and use a combination of extensions and u-joints so you can get some more torque behind it.
Good luck, and don't forget to give the new axle some mallet love so it seats properly
I think I finally ended up using a very small open ended ratcheting wrench. I couldn't get very much leverage on it, though.
You could try spraying some PB blaster on it if it's seized and use a combination of extensions and u-joints so you can get some more torque behind it.
Good luck, and don't forget to give the new axle some mallet love so it seats properly
No need to remove bearing bracket.
Last edited by Turbonut; Aug 6, 2015 at 04:29 AM.
To be fair, with the headers I have I can just reach up and undo the 3 bolts with no hassle at all so it hasn't been an issue for a long time.
Interesting, I'll have to look at it next time. I always thought the bearing was pressed onto a machined spot on the axle. How do the two shafts connect at the bearing?
To be fair, with the headers I have I can just reach up and undo the 3 bolts with no hassle at all so it hasn't been an issue for a long time.
To be fair, with the headers I have I can just reach up and undo the 3 bolts with no hassle at all so it hasn't been an issue for a long time.
The old mind was referring to the Acura/Honda service, wrong Forum.
No need to remove the bracket though. Remove the 3 bearing retaining bolts, and as most will find, the bearing is rusted solid to the bracket. Cover the oil pan sensor with a wet rag and move the O2 wire out of the way, heat, then use a sharp chisel.
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