Hi,

Okay I have moved up to the 4th generation. Just bought a 98 SE I'm going thru and the clock does not work. Can some one give me some tips on the removal before I break something on the dash. Are the clocks common failures? Is there a typical fix other than buying a new one?

Thanks.

 

check faqs on how to remove stero

 

Stereo is a seperate panel though, clock is on top part of AC vents

 

They need to come out for stereo installation so it should still be in there. They just pull out though. Use a butter knife or putty knife or something to pry at it and just be careful.

 

I tried using the FAQ and can't get it to work. Never can find anything, I must be stupid!

 

Another related question. Anyone know the fuse number or what the clock works with, fiqure I would start with simple stuff. I think everything else works though. Still can't get face plate off.

 

Just try doing it, it's not that hard.

 

Won't pop off !

 

I have same problem on my 95 gxe. clock doesnt work...

 

What's the deal, do we need a new clock? Di you try getting yours out or anything?

 

You do not need a new clock. Remove the clock and open it up. there is a small square resistor somewhere that says "31" or 32" on top of it. Most likely the solder to one of the resistor's connections have broken. Resolder, and you're done.

 

That would be great if that's all it is, I'm strugling getting the bezel off though, and afraid I might break the plastic or put a hole in the dash. The bottom pops out okay, but the top part over the AC ducts is really tight, any ideas?

 

Pull forward and down....
Go here: http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax2.htm

 

Okay got it out, WOW it was snug! Checked all solder joints and soldered ones mentioned above. Still NG, it might be cooked as the thing in the lower RH corner of the LCD looks like a little light bulb, right above that in the LCD is a black circle, kinda cooked looking. Seems to be power there cuz the big resister r2 gets warm. Whada think now? maybe I''l spend some time in the junk yard ...

 

Used clock on its way, $35 from junk yard, I can live with that.

 

I did the clock mod - put in a switch so I controlled dim/bright. [I always drive with headlights on but clock is hard to see when dim and sun is out.] Anyway, did the mod and worked fine for a while, then stopped. would come back on every once in a while, but always went out again... took dash apart again and found it was a loose connection, seemingly in the white plastic plug that connects the clock to the wiring harness. no matter what I do I can't get it to stay on. I finally gave up, drive around with a dark clock. And I still can't close the gap in the dash either!

 

I hope I don't end up with a gap, I'm waiting for clock to come and then will snap it back together, damn it was tight coming appart for sure.

 

I realize this is an old post, but I bought a used clock and did a direct swap. Nothing. Sooooooooooo, what have I got to lose. Removed the old clock and disassembled it...quite easy. Then got out a Radio Shack pencil tipped soldering iron and some Radio Shack silver solder, and resoldered anything with an "R" on it (the "R's" are on the circuit board). Add a little silver solder as necessary. Then viola, as they say in French, once assembled, it works like a champ. BTW, I got my confidence up doing this after buying some plans on how to repair the Bose radios that are in 4th gen vehicles. Figger if I can solder a radio, why not a clock. I"m learning. Hope this helps someone.

Regards,

Christen

 

hey im new here.have a 99se silver/gray.have the same prob with my clock. im tryin to hook my car up.had it for some time now and have round 170k on it.love the car and wanna dress it up.maybe start with a cool air intake....any suggestions?

 

Christen -
Thanks, that was a good idea. I might try it. On the other hand, I've got a V1 detector w/ a remote display and I've heard that it fits where the clock goes.

Terrence T -
Welcome. This site has much useful info on all kinds of topics. B4 you post a Q, do a search. You'll find advice about shocks and air intakes and almost anything you can think of. If you have a Q about a air intake and you don't find the answer in a search, then you should ask the Q in a new post. People probably aren't going to notice a Q about an air intake in an old post about a clock...

There's tons of stuff you can do... at 170k you're probably going to need work done and you might let that guide you some. For example you might need new shocks, so don't go OEM, go for KYB or adjustables.

The cold air intake seemed like more work than I was interested in. I put in a Stillen hi-flow, pretty simple and added a little growl to hard acceleration. If you make the intake work better you're supposed to make the exhaust better too - so the whole system breathes better. About that time I got a hole in the exhaust and I hated the noise. Many of the performance exhaust systems make the car louder. Some people like that, but I found it got on my nerves, so I ended up replacing with stock system.

So, what are your goals? Increase performance, improve handling, make it look better? Whatever, you're only limited by time - and money.

 

Holy, I can't get my clock to come out either. Is there any other way to fix the clock? Mine works sometimes but usually not for long... could it be a fuse? I think that's just wishful thinking.

 

Remove shifter trim, (it pull up and away).

Remove the screws at bottom of radio/storage panel.
Pull slowly up and towards back of car, till it comes loose.
A/C and Clock are now loose from dash - remove the clock from the bezel cover.

 

My clock still doesn't work. I basically gave up on it.
Every once in a while it will come on, but never for very long.
If it can come and go then it isn't a problem with the fuse.
I don't think a new clock is the answer either.
I found it hard to work on as the wires are kind of short,
so I have to work on it while it's still partly inside the dash.
There is a little rectangular plastic block which the wires slot into for the connection...
I believe that one of the wires is loose, that the connection block isn't gripping right. Maybe putting some conductive grease (if there is such a thing) in the holes the wires push into would fix it?

 

fast97maxse

I am having the same problem in my 1997 GXE. It will come on for like 10 sec. then turn off (mostly doesn't work). I don't know what to do, but it is a PITA not having a clock (my aftermarket stereo doesn't display a time unless the radio is off).

 

The clocks suffer from cold (bad) solder connections on the little printed ciccuit board, mostly around a resistor that is part of the power distribution. In order to fix this, you have to take the clock out and re-solder the bad connections. You better know how to: A- identify cold solder connections, and B- know how to solder, using a 25 watt soldering iron.

 

try prying it off it should be really easy i pull it off like nothing

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/clock/clock.html

 

I have done several clocks and replaing the resistors has not been necessary. Its the cold solder around the legs of those resistors.

 

Ok, well I haven't every soldered anything so is it possible I just replace the clock with one from the scrap yard? Is that a viable option for the soldering impaired?

 

I just replaced mine with one from the scrap yard and it also does not work. From the sounds of it, the clocks have issues. I'm going to try my "Cold Heat" solderer on mine tonight since I've been itching to give this thing a look-see. I used it to fix a piece of jewelry for my daughter and it was an interesting experience for someone used to the old soldering irons...

I'll post back the results... I've got two to experiment with at this point.

 

Another bump of a dead thread as I chronicle the fixing of little niggles in my Max...

I just repaired my clock without the use of a soldering iron, though I didn't have the same issue as everyone else. My terminal was loose - the white plastic block with the pins wiggled around a bit (I could actually feel it move), and when I removed the clock from its casing it would only work if I pushed and held the cable to one side. Instead of being sensible and busting out a soldering iron, I held the clock an inch or two from a heat gun on full blast until the solder melted and then immediately switched the heat gun off. Problem solved: I could no longer feel the wiggle, and the clock now stays on.

If you don't want to solder every other pin on the board (or you're just a dumbass like me and don't search the forums before you roast your car parts), the heat gun is the answer. I got the idea from people "reflowing" broken-solder IBM Thinkpad motherboards in their ovens.

 

This had been driving me nuts too; I'm gonna try a blow dryer since I don't have a heat gun, but from looking at these pics, can you see anything out of the sorts? The only thing is the dark part of the screen in the bottom right corner of the screen. I don't see any obvious separations of the solder.

 

Check the ones labelled as R1, R2, R3 etc, flip the board to the other side to check the solders for the resistors and resolder.

 

I don't know that a blow dryer is going to be able to heat to the point of reflowing the solder without cooking the rest of the board. I'd suggest nosing around...probably someone you know has tried to remove paint with a heat gun...there's probably one in someone's arsenal of tools that you know.

 

So you guys are also suggesting to look at this side for cracks? I don't see any, but i'll look with a magnafier.

 

not cracks but bad solder connections i can see a few in that pic u need to fire up the solderin gun and hit those solder joints where u can see the pins pushin through the solder

 

basicly you need to re solder all these any any ones that look like whats circled i got tired of drawing but u get the idea

 

roger that. POS clock!

 

I gre impatient while waiting for a replacement clock. So I pulled it out and took a look. I cleaned the silver prongs and plugged it back in. Clock came on and went off. So it was a connection issue. Took a small screwdriver and pressed the silver prongs on the white/tan female end. Added some Dielectric grease and it works.

Soooo I'll have a spare clock when it comes in.

 

It works.