Hey.. I'm doing a 5spd conversion, and have everything hooked up.. So today I went ahead and bled the clutch. But for some reason. It keeps NO pressure.. I bleed until there are no more bubbles, and then tighten the bleed screw, same for the upper bleeder. But the clutch stays on the floor, and does not come up. We tried bleeding over and over but same results... Someone please help!!!! Would anyone's guess be that the clutch master, or slave is leaking?? I checked and double checked all the lines, but no leaks. Any help is appreciated.. Thanks.

 

Whats your bleeding procedure exactly.
If the slave/master was leaking some fluid would appear after working the clutch with your hand the build up of pressure.I've seen the slave go bad and then the clutch lies downward.

 

Okay my procedure is:

I top of the master clutch cylinder..
hook up a hose to the lower bleeder..
Have assistant inside car press down on the clutch pedal..
Loosen the valve.. then close it..
I tell the assisstant to pull the clutch pedal up.

We Repeat these steps until no more bubbles are noticed.
Same with the uppper bleeder.

Somethin tells me my procedure is wayy wrong..KFL?

 

After your done bleeding, try to pull up the pedal and push it down. Repeat this until the pedal come back on its own. I thought I had no pressure either until I did that and its been working fine.

 

I will try that tomorrow.. I got worried that I would have to replace the clutch master, and slave.. But I will try that tomorrow ASAP. BTW.. You do that AFTER there are no bubbles in the lines right?

Thanks so much for the reply.

 

I have had similar experience with hydraulic systems on other cars. You probably want to do the slave first, then the master, following a procedure of pushing down on the clutch , letting air out, tighten the fitting, then tell assistant in the car to pull up slow on the pedal. I fyou can't get it right after awhile do suspect the slave. My experience is used units especially if they've been sitting around in a junk yard, are problematic due to rust, moisture problems.

 

How do you bleed the master? Is it the bleed port mounted on the left strut tower?

 

Hmmm.

This makes me worry there may be a problem with the actuator arm/throwout bearing/pressure plate assembly. Do you know for sure that the slave cylinder plunger is contacting the actuator arm? Is force being transmitted through the actuator arm and throwout bearing to the clutch pressure plate when you step on the clutch?

 

the slave goes out, but it seems that it doesnt go out far enough... it touches the throwout bearing arm, and moves it a little bit, but not nearly enough. When I have my helper hold the clutch pedal down, I can push the slave plunger back in, which means its not holding pressure? Also, I looked up under the clutch pedal, and where the clutch master comes in, theres a slight sweat on the grommit boot.. I am guessing I need a new master cylinder. Any thoughts?

 

Bump... Anyone??

 

I use a vacuum thingy to bleed... so 1 person job. I don't kno if that will make a diff.
Jae

 

I'm thinking it's a problem with the master cylinder, too. When a slave cylinder goes out, it leaks. When a master cylinder goes out, you don't get leakage, you just don't develop enough pressure to move the throw out bearing arm. Did you buy a used master cylinder? A new one isn't too expensive.

 

Something that I didn't see anybody else say... Make sure you keep the master cylinder full through this whole process. Only open the bleeder valves for a second or two. Make sure your banjo bolts are on tight; best if you use the specific torque specifications.

 

I will be replacing the Master with a new one, the one I have on there now is used. Anyone know if I used say a hyraulic line from a eclipse (straight hard line), so I would basically have one single line going from the master to the slave.... it will eliminate the upper bleeder, but will it have any side effects?