I have been looking around at alot of the posts done in the past on this, but haven't found one that exactly matches my problem.
My problem happens in cold or warm, happens at least once a day. And usually is combination of the following. I'll turn the key and it will start to crank but never turn over and start. Then I'll try again and it might turn over and start but as I'm their in park the idle rev's up and down and I can see my RPM needle go up and down. When it does this I usually gun the gas a couple times and it starts idle normally again. And then sometimes it justs starts without any problems. Question: Is this is a ignition switch or starter problem? Or is this a fuel problem (flooding, leaky valves)? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

You said your car wouldn't start properly. Please be more specific. Did it not crank (Rrr-Rrr-Rrr) as long as you held the key in the START position? Did it crank, but slower than usual? Did it crank at normal speed but fail to fire (no Vroom!)? Did the starter motor spin with an unusual high-pitched whine? The diagnostic paths and potential remedies are different.

Help us to help you by providing a clear report of symptoms.

 

As I hold the key in the START position sometimes it will crank and crank but not fire. Sometimes it will crank a couple times then fire, then I have the RPM problem. Other times it fires up right up right away. I have not had any problems with it not cranking at all. It has always "tried" to start. This is with a 95 Max SE btw.

 

I believe your ignition switch and starter motor are blameless.

When you switch off your engine, the fuel injection system is supposed to maintain its pressure. This is called "residual pressure" and it helps the engine start easily at the next start-up. If your engine has lost the residual pressure, the engine will not start with the usual ease.

How could the engine lose residual pressure?

#1) The fuel pump check valve leaks. The fuel returns to the fuel tank. The engine is not flooded.

#2) The engine has one or more fuel injectors which don't close properly. The fuel leaks into the intake manifold, and sits there until the next start-up. The engine is flooded.

You may do some simple tests to determine if your engine is hard to start because it has lost residual pressure.

Test #1, for leaky check valve.
Turn the ignition switch to ON, wait ten or fifteen seconds, and then twist the key to START. This brief delay gives the fuel pump time to build up the normal fuel pressure. If your engine starts and runs readily after this brief delay, you may have a leaky check valve.

Test #2, for leaky injectors.
Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank. Wide Open Throttle while cranking is a signal to the Engine Control Module (the computer) to clear a flooded engine. If your engine starts and runs readily with the "pedal to the metal" you may have leaky injectors.


Remedy for #1, leaky check valve.
I suggest you just "learn to live with it" and make the ten-second delay part of your normal routine. The check valve is part of the fuel pump, situated inside the gas tank. This is an expensive repair.

Remedy for #2, leaky injectors.
Buy three cans of name-brand fuel injector cleaner. Follow instructions on the can, and treat three successive tankfuls of gasoline. I've had good results with this kind of "snake oil". The three cans cost only US$5, so it is an inexpensive gamble. If the cleaner fails you may have to replace the leaky injectors.

 

thanks for the suggestions I will try them and we'll see what happens!

 

Check to see if the steps described in the previous thread works. He seems like he knows what he's talking about since he lives in his car. If that doesn't work, try changing the fuel filter. I had a similar but not as severe, problem. The fuel filter only costs around $10, and you could install it yourself. Hope it works.

 

Replacing the fuel filter is something which may be done by the home mechanic.
It is somewhat more difficult to reach if your Maxima is equipped with ABS.
It does not require any special tools. It does require manual dexterity and patience.

See http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/mega...0k_service.html
and scroll down to Step 3, Fuel Filter.

Go to Steve Cutchen's excellent MaxFAQ page:
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/
Click on SUBTOPICS below Maintenance.

 

I had the same problem and Nissan Dealer replaced it for free since my car was still under 60k miles power train warranty. The problem is with soleroid which supplies fuel to injectors, it was filling up too much gas and therefore prevented normal start up and rpm needle would be going grazy at start up, but after dealer fixed the problem all was fine. if you are in NYC, go to bay ridge nissan thats where they fixed up my car for free.

 

Sorry to bring this up, but i see a lot of people having this sort of problem and i see many threads started. I also see some very good advice given here, so this might answer a few pending threads. I'm just helping the people who can't use the search function