Nissan Maxima 95 Turns Off....help
09-15-2004, 12:09 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Nissan Maxima 95 Turns Off....help
Hi, I Have A Maxima 95, And I Have A Big Problem. My Car Start To Shake, I Can't Acceletare And The Engine Turns Off. This Hapans Mostly When The Car Is Cool, But Not All The Time. I Have Changed Already The Knock Sensor, Coolante Temp Sensor, Iac Sensor, Air Sensor And Still.....it Turns Off. Can Somebody Please Help Me....beacuse I'm Desperate.
09-17-2004, 10:28 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 170
i had that problem too, about a year ago. I would be driving and the car would shake and i couldnt accelerate. However the car never stopped running but it seemed like it was goin to. The dealer told me it was the crank angle sensor and another sensor that i cant recall. didnt cost too much. Hope that helps a lil.
09-18-2004, 11:19 AM
#7
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 228
Originally Posted by irishmoyni
i had that problem too, about a year ago. I would be driving and the car would shake and i couldnt accelerate. However the car never stopped running but it seemed like it was goin to. The dealer told me it was the crank angle sensor and another sensor that i cant recall. didnt cost too much. Hope that helps a lil.
09-21-2004, 10:01 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
so i went to my mecanic, and he said that since my check engine is not on, and the ECM doesn't show nothing wrong, the only thing i can do is wait till my problem got bigger..meanwhile what can i do....any advise?
09-21-2004, 10:12 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 677
Just a guess...On my 95 the ECU Screw that you turn to check CEL is broken (meaning that I can keep turning it with out it stoping). If I turn the screw just a little too much in one direction, my idle is way off and the car will not stay on. If you have been checking your ECU codes a lot you may have the same problem. try adjusting the screw in small increments and see if it works. Good luck.
09-21-2004, 10:14 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by Pappa Grande
Just a guess...On my 95 the ECU Screw that you turn to check CEL is broken (meaning that I can keep turning it with out it stoping). If I turn the screw just a little too much in one direction, my idle is way off and the car will not stay on. If you have been checking your ECU codes a lot you may have the same problem. try adjusting the screw in small increments and see if it works. Good luck.
09-21-2004, 10:43 AM
#13
Check the codes, and most likely it will be the MAF, mine did the same thing for about 2 weeks on and off. I pulled codes, the CPS (crank pos sens) came up I changed it, still stalled. And on the second week, after I changed the CPS, even though I had checked codes at least 5 times before and nothing but CPS code showed, the MAF code finally showed up, and you can get them (MAFS) used for $35-75 www.car-part.com which lists junkyards across the nation, or from someone on here which may be a better bet since you may be able to trust some of them more. Total aprts was 100 dollars fofr bth sensors, and they are easy as pie to change. I'd bet its your MAF, change that before your CPS, get it used its a lot cheaper.
09-21-2004, 12:46 PM
#15
I am not sure about that. But i had a 1993 Maxima. It stalled once in a while. It ended up being the MAF. My suggestion is to take it to the Nissan Dealer and get it checked out. Thats if don't wana blow money on stuff that u don't need. Take it from my experience.
09-21-2004, 12:49 PM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by Tman6429
I am not sure about that. But i had a 1993 Maxima. It stalled once in a while. It ended up being the MAF. My suggestion is to take it to the Nissan Dealer and get it checked out. Thats if don't wana blow money on stuff that u don't need. Take it from my experience.
09-21-2004, 12:50 PM
#18
Dont take it to Nissan, just to run diagnostics is $60 +. If you're going to take somewhere take it to Autozone and they will run diagnostics for free. Like I stated in my post above, my MAF code didnt show up until a couple of weeks after the problem had been occuring, and i had been checking it at least twice a week, shell out 45 dollars and get a used one, if that's not it, send it back. And to pull codes, read the STICKIES if you haven't already, they show you how, step by step. Not trying to be a d!ck, just trying to save you money.
09-21-2004, 12:55 PM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Dont take it to Nissan, just to run diagnostics is $60 +. If you're going to take somewhere take it to Autozone and they will run diagnostics for free. Like I stated in my post above, my MAF code didnt show up until a couple of weeks after the problem had been occuring, and i had been checking it at least twice a week, shell out 45 dollars and get a used one, if that's not it, send it back. And to pull codes, read the STICKIES if you haven't already, they show you how, step by step. Not trying to be a d!ck, just trying to save you money.
09-21-2004, 01:18 PM
#20
It could be a fuel delivery problem. Something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. I'd change that if i were you just for my peace of mind. Only 12 bux or so from the dealer.
09-21-2004, 01:22 PM
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by nismology
It could be a fuel delivery problem. Something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. I'd change that if i were you just for my peace of mind. Only 12 bux or so from the dealer.
09-21-2004, 02:04 PM
#23
yeah, I'd flat replace the fuel filter. Also are you noticing that you are idling really low (200-500) when the shaking/stalling happens? If so, there is a very good chance that it is your ECU screw, as I had mine too far to the left, and while my car would never stall, it did complain a bit. I adjusted it back to the middle and everything is dandy now.
09-21-2004, 02:36 PM
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by Chickan
yeah, I'd flat replace the fuel filter. Also are you noticing that you are idling really low (200-500) when the shaking/stalling happens? If so, there is a very good chance that it is your ECU screw, as I had mine too far to the left, and while my car would never stall, it did complain a bit. I adjusted it back to the middle and everything is dandy now.
09-21-2004, 03:03 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 91
If it dies after operating temp, check the egr valve and make sure it is cleaned....if it does it when you start the car then check the ignition switch...there was a (should have been) recall on the ignition switch where two wires are soldered together. I also had this problem and doing both fixed them. Hope this helps>
P.S. Ig switch is located behind the lock thingy on the steering wheel column.
Andy
P.S. Ig switch is located behind the lock thingy on the steering wheel column.
Andy
09-22-2004, 09:48 AM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by Chickan
yeah, I'd flat replace the fuel filter. Also are you noticing that you are idling really low (200-500) when the shaking/stalling happens? If so, there is a very good chance that it is your ECU screw, as I had mine too far to the left, and while my car would never stall, it did complain a bit. I adjusted it back to the middle and everything is dandy now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
xUNIxPanther
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
6
08-27-2015 10:09 PM
District
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
08-15-2015 08:23 PM