Well looks liek my CV boots are cracked and spraying grease all over the place. My question is should I replace the whole axle? I kind of hear a "clunk" sound somtiems..not sure if it's the CV joint though, sounds like soemthing else...maybe the axle?...Anyways, cna this be changed easily at home with the correct tools? Do i ahve to empty out the transmission fluid if I change the whole assemply CV Joint/Axle? Thanks!

 

If you don't know how long the boot has been ripped then you should put in a new axle. Here's a writeup http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401. Depending on mileage the tranny fluid should probably be changed anyway, and you should probably have some on hand anyway since there is a chance some fluid will come out. If you're strapped for cash you can get one from any local autoparts place ($70US). These will be remanned and could last a long time or might start clicking fairly soon. You could also get one from raxles.com ($125US). These use new rather than remanned CV's so may last alot longer.

 

Excellent! Thanks! I may as well replace them whole thing I guess. tehnbot has been ripped for about a month....How bad is it to drive with the boot ripped in winter conditions? What is the worst that can happen if I don't fix right away? Will the wheel detach or something?

 

I just did mine. If you drive on them for the winter, there is always the chance that the joint could break and then you don't have power to that wheel any longer along with a dangling axle that could do some serious damage. When I took my axles out, the joints were very loose, so I'm glad that I did it. I used reman's (80.00 a piece). When you remove the left side axle, your gear oil is going to spill out. I would recommend you just drain it and do a fresh refill when you have the new axles in. A few things that I found out as I did them:

The trans drain bolt is hard to find on the 5spd. It's on the very lower part of the tranny facing the right side next to the shift shaft. It actually looks like the bolt would hit the shaft guard when you'd take it out (don't take anything off to get at it.) Turns out, it's a short bolt and it will come out without any disassembly. The refill bolt is pretty easy to find. It looks like an oversized bolt that a 1/2 inch drive goes right into. The manual showed me where that was, but didn't show the drain bolt.

In addition to that, when disassembling the right axle, repeat as you'd do with the left ,but you have to take off 3 ten millimeter bolts on the support bearing to get it to slide out. When putting the axles in, be very careful so you don't nick the seal with the end of the shaft. Good luck.

 

Ok well it doesn't seem to difficult to replace the whole assembly. I guess it just pretty much slides out. it almost seems like more work to change the boot alone. Well Looks like I'll have to drop about $200 to get this fixed. Just had to go buy a battery on my lunch break also, then again i still had the original battery in the car. Thanks again for all the info

 

your best bet is to replace the whole thing. its really a safety issue. with the boot ripped the car is not safe to drive but a lot of people do it and push them to the limits
weather does effect the boots and it can snap at any time with or without warning. until then take it easy on the max if you have to drive it.

 

my car was drivin on torn boots for 3 + month, from prev owner, get raxle if u can afford it worth the $

 

Excellent thanks! I can get them here for 80 bucks (in canada) I beleive if I order the raxles it will be more $$$ with the currency conversion and the border fees....Thanks though!! Looks like I got a weekend project coming up

 

Any others that would recommend doing this repair yourself?
I am wondering the same thing, as I will be doing it soon.
I have a torn boot, but there is no noise coming from there yet.
I think the joint is still good, as well as the axle, but it is only a matter of time.

 

Mine were torn for some time and I didn't hear a noise like you do on Honda's when they start clicking. But when I took the shafts out, man were those joints loose !! I'm glad I didn't wait any longer.

Just remember when you do them, you don't have to disassemble the brake assembly at all. To make it easy, here is what I disassembled on each side.

First and foremost, you need to break the axle bolts loose on each axle. You'll need a very big axle socket (I think it's a 36mm) to do this, along with a breaker bar and a pry bar. I used a breaker bar and the extension from my hydraulic jack. Have someone stomp on the brake, so you don't have to use a pry bar to hold the rotor from turning. Much easier than how the manual shows how to do it. While someone is stomping on the brake pedal, you can break each bolt loose. "gotta remove the cotter pin and holder flange first of course.

Where your control arm connects to the frame, there are 3 big bolts that I removed to give the control arm some flex when you disconnect the other things I will list.

Also, use a ball joint splitter and disconnect your tie rod arm. You don't have to separate the lower ball joint, that's why I listed the above task.

Remove the clips from your strut for the brake lines and let the lines hang free.

Remove the 2 big bolts that hold the lower part of the strut to the wheel assembly.

Now you are ready to slide the axle out of the wheel assembly.

After you've done that, you are ready to pull the axle from the drivers side trans.

The right side, you have to remove 3 10mm bolts from the bearing support and then it will slide right out as well. Be careful when re-installing this side. It's a blind shot back through the seal, so have someone help in guiding it back in slowly so you don't nick the seal.

Bolt everything back up, refill the trans. (5spd) w/ 80/90 weight gear oil (5qts) and you are good to go. Remember, have someone stomp on that brake pedal again to tighten those axle bolts to 173 ft lbs.

 

Wow! thanks! Hmmm...I'm almost looking forward to this getting done. It sounds like teh ride quality will improve greatly as well. I have an automatic though, but I'm sure the same applies for emptying out the tranny fluid

 

davey.....how long of a process was this for you?
I will probably be doing it (on just one side) sometime before the weather gets cold.
I have a couple of months before that happens though.

 

The process from start to finish was about 4 or 5 hours. Mainly because I spent an hour looking for the drain plug on the 5spd tranny. If I had to do it again, probably a 2 1/2 to 3 hour job.

From what the manual says about the automatics, ithe drain plug is in a slightly different place, but near the shift shaft boot area. I always look for a washer underneath the bolt. Usually a dead giveaway when I've found that.
Check the capacity for the refill on the automatic as well. The refill plug may be different on the Auto's, but the manual shoudl tell you that as well.

Doing just one side shouldn't take you very long, especially if it's the drivers side. I've done shafts on Honda's so many times, that I knew the Maxima couldn't be much different. Let me know if you have any other questions.

daveyg

 

if you replace one side, is there a safety issue if you leave the other alone?

 

They aren't like struts where they recommend doing both at the same time. If the other axle looks good without any splits, you should be fine. Chances are though, you'll be doing the other side sooner than you thought. The boots dry rot and crack open, spilling the lubricating grease out everywhere. Look at the good side and see if the boots are starting to crack. If so, just replace it.

 

true true.

 

Since I had my right axle replaced with a remanufactured one would there be a good chance that it could go bad even if the boots on the axle are not torn.
It is knocking bad when I turn left and when someone else is in the car it even knocks when I am going forward.

 

I dont understand how you loosened the axle nut. I have a breaker bar, and a tire jack as wekk as 2 ton hydraulic jack. Where do I place the jack???
Please Explain.......thanks

 

Most reman's are guaranteed for the life of the part. If you are positive that it's the driveaxle making the noise, remove it and bring it back to the place you bought it. Actually, before you remove it, double check with them in case they don't warranty them. Just did mine and they have a lifetime warranty through AutoZone.

Ok, now for breaking the bolts loose on your MAX. Here's what you need.

1st, jack the car up and remove the wheels, the cotter pins, and the metal flange from the bolt. With the car jacked up from the sides right behind the wheels, here's what you need:

1. Someone to stomp on the brake pedal so the axles don't turn.
2. You need a 1/2' breaker bar that you'll use a 36mm socket with.
3. You need an extension to put on the breaker bar to get more leverage. I used my jack handle from my 3 ton jack.
4. You're own body weight standing on the jack handle, attached to the breaker bar, attached to the socket.
5. If it still doesn't come loose, get your brother to stand on the jack handle with you, it'll break loose.
6. If it still doesn't break loose, you will need a 1/2' air gun w/ 400+ lbs. of torque. Repeat, but this time just zip the thing off with air, no bars or brothers required.

 

How hard is it to pull out the axle though? Does it just slide out pretty eaasily?? Or do i have to pry it out? I'm talking about once I have it detached from the strut and what not....thanks!

 

Once the big nuts are off the ends, use a rubber mallet or a center punch to free the shaft from the wheel assembly. Don't use a hammer, you don't want to damage the threads since you have to turn those shafts in for a core. I just hit it with my hand and it wanted to slide right out. On the tranny side, once you have the threaded side out and free of the wheel assembly, support the inner axle joint and give the axle a few good tugs from the end and it should slide right out. I didn't need to pry at all. I tell you to support the inner joint so when it does release from the tranny, you don't want that shaft dropping down and nicking the seal at all. ** Remember, on the right side, just remove the 3 10mm bolts that are part of the bearing support for the inner joint and it will then slide right out. Put some anti sieze lub on the new joint when sliding it back into that bearing support so it is easy to get out the next time.

 

i just did my clutch, and i'm pretty sure the three bolts on the intermediate shaft are 12mm...i know this because i had to take them out 3 times. another good way to get the axle nut off is with an impact, but never put one back on with air...big no no. also, if you can't pull the right side out, you can always hit the bearing support with a hammer on the wheel side, it's part of the axle/intermediate shaft assembly, and i'm sure if you turn it in for a core they won't mind a couple dings in that, it's still very functional. also, if you don't want to wait for the fluid to drain through the actual drain plug, just pull the neutral saftey switch on the other side, it's black with a wire and a 10mm bolt holding it in, it'll be in there pretty good so just get a small screwdriver to pry it out of the hole and the fluid will empty in a matter of seconds.

hope some of this helps,

J

 

I have never ever removed the axle nut without an impact wrench and a torch. To do so would be uncivilized. This is designed to be one tough mother.

Actually I did remove one once on my mom's old caravan. I used a long pipe. A trick to doing this is to put your spare tire on the wheel. Tighten it up. Then let the car down to the ground. Heat the nut up well with a propane or MAPP torch. Heat it up for a good 5 mins. Then set the parking brake. The spare tire center hole is wide enough to get a socket in there. Get a socket, a large breaker bar, and a pipe over the breaker bar. Try to loosen the nut in little bursts instead of one fluid motion.

If it doesnt come out try heating it a little more. If it still doesnt come out then you might need an impact wrench.

As for the right side. There's a center bearing. That one can be a *****. I had one maxima (a 91) where the inside was SCORED. Someone tried to hammer it in with some crap in there when it was installed and the whole thing was frozen. It took an impact hammer to loosen the thing off.

 

air tools are my best friend in the whole world

 

I used my jack handle as a pry bar and they broke loose pretty easily. I've done it on Honda's as well without a problem. No heat, just brute pry torque with the brakes held.

I second the tip on not tightening the axle bolt with air. You will damage your wheel bearings and possibly your outer CV joint.

 

you dont need to do those two things. just remove the lower strut mounting bolts, and the rotor and hub assembly will just barely swing out of the way enough. use a rubber mallet to hit the axle out of the hub and swing the assembly down.

 

what kind of oil do you use when you install a new axle?

 

cutmouf, yea, you are right. It was my first time doing them on the Max, so I separated the tie rod arm out of habit. I wasn't sure if I'd get enough clearance by just disconnecting the strut joint, but with all three things, I had plenty of clearance.

Use 80/90 weight gear oil in the tranny. (5spd) Check the manual on the Auto's, but I think it's Dextron 3. With the 5spds, it'll take 4 to 5 quarts. Just stop pumping the oil into the fill bolt hole once it starts coming back out.

 

just be sure to get GL-4 rated oil, NOT GL-5
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/800

 

whoa, i better check into what i just put in...a flush may be in order.

 

3 hours!!!! i got it done in 1 hour rst time, 30 min 2nd, and i dint have to *** any tranny fluid.... none drained out, well a lil, like less than 1/2 a cup, and y not use the impact on the bolt?? i did it and its works fine

heres what u need to get/have

1)buy the electric impact wrench home depot/sears/lowe has (keep it clean to return after ur done hehe)
2)get BLACK impact socket 36mm from pep boys, $10, get a long one for the lugs, cant remember size
3) get a u-joint and a set of extensions for your 3 12mm bolts on pass side
4) pry bat/ falt head screw driver
5)rubber mallet or hammer and some wood, a punch is good to have to
6)jack/ jack stands
7)new cotter pins
8)pliers
9)friend/hot chick (prefer in cut wife beater ) to help hold stuff


to do:
***tell your girl/wife/mom/etc to not bother you for 1 hour... very annyoing****
1)put car on jack stands
2) remove lugs w/ impact take off wheel
3)remove cotter pins w/ pliers
4)put 36mm socket on impact wrench take off both axle nut, (might take a sec, hold tightly to get more power)
5) prop brake line holder w/ screwdriver /prybar
6) use impact to take of bolt on struts, u have to hold the other side w/ a wrench and one side is bigger than other

*** DRIVER SIDE****
7) use malet or hammer/punch to tap the axle loose from rest of wheel assm, might have to use soem force, dont worry ur not gonna break anythign
8)u have to pull the outer alxe part out of where it was stationed so u can pull it out later, mine came out w/o removing the arms or tie rods, etc, u gotta pull a little on the axle assembly by the boot
9) use pry bar/screwdriver to pry the axle from where it comes out of the transmision

install is reverse

***passenger side****
7) remove 3 inner bolts that holds the axle to the transmmison in middle of the inner boot and transmission, USE THE U JOINT and extension, best $10 i ever spent on tools
8)do the same as other side,
9)install is reverse. DONT forget to put those brake lines holders back in, impact everythign back: strut bolts, axle nut, lugs, dont worry those electric guns @ those store at only 240lb pressure so u wont be over tightening too much, mine works fine


10) return impact wrench, say it sucked or somthing!!

 

axle nuts should not be tightened with an impact due to the fact that the bearings ride on them, they should always be torqued to spec with a torque wrench...unless of course you want bearing failure. 174 ft/lbs is what i think i tightened mine to, never overdo it with an impact, you'll ruin more things than fix.

the strut shaft bolts are 17mm and the nuts are 19mm.

 

Yea, those electric impact do just fine tightening things, but you have no idea how tight they actually got the nuts and bolts. I said it before, DO NOT impact the axle nuts on !!!!! Just as everyone else has been saying, you risk damaging bearings that you'll be spending more than 1 hour to replace. Use a torque wrench, and I also believe 174 ft lbs is the # on those axle nuts.

 

Im changing out my passenger axle tonight, i'll take some pics and let you guys know if I failed.. lol

 

well.. i just got done doin the right side which was fairly easy but i couldnt get the passenger side one out.. i got the axle out of the rotor and i took the three bolts off and then started to pull on it, but nothin.. i did this for about a half hour and still nothin.. i went underneath and looked as i my brother was pullin it and it seems like the place where the three bolts are held in is somehow rusted together with the bracket that holds the axle in.. has anyone had this problem before?? can anyone help me out.??

 

hit the intermediate shaft mount closest to the cv joint with a hammer. after a few nice hits you'll see it draw itself out.

 

why kinda air compressor and impact wrench do u guys recommend. any minimum psi??? and lbs? Also what about those electric impact wrenches that claim to have 400 lbs torque???

 

when it comes to taking off the axle nut, the more torque the better, it doesn't matter. but never put the nut on with the impact. your wheel bearings ride on the axle nut, and if you exceed the specified ft/lbs you put stress on the bearing and create a chance for premature bearing failure. always torque the nut to spec with a torque wrench set to 174 ft/lbs, while using a pry bar to keep the hub from turning...that or you can put your wheel on without a center cap, lower the car, and torque it then.

 

I have a 96 Auto GXE and changed driver's side axle yesterday. Few things to mention based on my experience.

1. In my case I didn't need to drain transmission fluid. Not a drip of fluid came out when I pulled out the axle.

2. I didn't need air tools to remove the axle nut. I loosened it while the car is still on ground with the wheel attached. A torque wrench set at 150 ft/lbs was enough to loosen the nut this way.

3. I bought the new axle from raxles.com. The price was $119.99 with $19.85 shipping. Placed an order on Wednesday afternoon, the axle was shipped on the same day by UPS, and received it on Friday. They don't charge core ($100.00) upfront and include a UPS shipping label so you don't have to pay shipping to send your old axle.

4. I was able to pry the axle off using screw driver, it wasn't that difficult.

5. The toughest part was to push a new axle all the way in. The last inch or so was so tough apparently because of the circular clip that is attached at the edge of inner axle spine. I ended up reattaching the steering knuckle to the strut while the axle isn't fully pushed back and hit the other end of the spine with rubber malet. Once it is pushed about another half inch or so, I was able to push all the way back in by hand. I searched this forum before I did this and apparently I wasn't the only one who went through this difficulty.

 

If you're having a problem getting out the passenger side drive axle, try putting some penetrating oil ( 3 in 1, etc...) between that bearing joint. It's always recommended to put anti-sieze lube on the joint before reinstalling the axle so you don't run into that exact problem. It's most likely just some surface rust that is keeping the axle from sliding out of that bearing race. Just use some penetrating oil, lightly tap on it with a plastic mallet to help work it in and then keep trying to get it to break loose by giving a few tugs on the axle.