Our factory brakes SUCK!!
#1
Our factory brakes SUCK!!
I'm you guys already know that the Maxima has some s****y azz brakes the don't last for s****. I'm just looking for a cheap upgrade for the brake system. I def. don't wanna spend the $$ on brand name rotors and pads like Stealin. I've heard that some people swap 300zx rotors in. Also Mustang Cobra rotors?
Post your brake mods. Include pics if possible. Include:
1-brand, size, description...etc.
2-cost, where purchased
3-your opinion on the upgrade, performance, quality...etc.
-Paul
Post your brake mods. Include pics if possible. Include:
1-brand, size, description...etc.
2-cost, where purchased
3-your opinion on the upgrade, performance, quality...etc.
-Paul
#2
you've been here long enough that i shouldn't have to tell you...SEARCH.
if you're not a donator, use this - thanks to kevlo911
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=cob...ums.maxima.org
if you're not a donator, use this - thanks to kevlo911
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=cob...ums.maxima.org
#3
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Maintained properly, the Maxiam has good brakes right from the factory.
You can upgrade to larger brakes, but you will not stop any faster then the rubber your running allows you to. Most people think bigger brakes will stop you faster but never think about the last thing that keeps you connected to the road, your tires. They play a huge role in your stopping power. Bottom line is if you can lock them up now, larger brakes will only lock up sooner.
If you track your car or are very hard on the brakes, upgrade to a performance pad and a slotted rotor to eliminate brake fade.
You can upgrade to larger brakes, but you will not stop any faster then the rubber your running allows you to. Most people think bigger brakes will stop you faster but never think about the last thing that keeps you connected to the road, your tires. They play a huge role in your stopping power. Bottom line is if you can lock them up now, larger brakes will only lock up sooner.
If you track your car or are very hard on the brakes, upgrade to a performance pad and a slotted rotor to eliminate brake fade.
#6
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
If you track your car or are very hard on the brakes, upgrade to a performance pad and a slotted rotor to eliminate brake fade.
#7
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...d=17807&page=1
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...id=2181&page=1
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...id=8667&page=1
I have all of these pieces new in the box.I'm selling all of it for $250.00 shipped.
EMAIL J_Pellegrino@msn.com
Let me know yes or no.
Thanks,
Joey
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...id=2181&page=1
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...id=8667&page=1
I have all of these pieces new in the box.I'm selling all of it for $250.00 shipped.
EMAIL J_Pellegrino@msn.com
Let me know yes or no.
Thanks,
Joey
#9
I've had this setup for a while now, Hawk HPS pads paired up with Powerslot rotors up front, and OEM everything in the back. Compared to my full OEM setup, this combo stops better, and I have not encountered any brake fade for my style of driving (I do not auto-x or go to the track, but do some spirited driving when conditions are right). Last week I put on Raybestos QS pads in the rear, due to my local Nissan parts store not being open on Sunday (have not "tested them out yet"). I read good things about the QS's and I have no time during the week do it, so the Raybestos went on. I paid around $60 dollars for the Hawk pads (from the tirerack) and about $180 (www.shox.com)for the front rotors (about the same price as the OEM stuff, but work better). I am very happy with my combo.
#10
Originally Posted by slammed95
If you're not willing to spend what it takes to upgrade from the stock crappy brakes, you can't complain about how much they suck.
#11
I definetly understand how crappy they are. Mine are going to be needing replacing very very soon. They squeal like crazy, and now the right front makes this paper bag sounding noise when rolling.
And just the other day when I would apply the brakes the right front sounded like it was about to fall apart. It went away after 15 minutes, it was very unusual, but in the end brakes are soon going to be here.
I'm going to order some from Jason's GD.
And just the other day when I would apply the brakes the right front sounded like it was about to fall apart. It went away after 15 minutes, it was very unusual, but in the end brakes are soon going to be here.
I'm going to order some from Jason's GD.
#12
You guys. Be realistic please. Brakes on a Maxima do great in many street applications. When you take a budget oriented brake setup and ask too much of it its going to overheat, boil and fade. The brakes do fine on the street with minor fade if maintained properly. You need to ask yourself how hard you drive. Unless you do roadracing or extreme downhill type runs your not going to need anything more than nice pads matched to nice rotors with SS lines and Motul 600.
#13
thanks a lot to the guys that actually helped me. I've come to a decision about my brakes. I am going to keep the stock rotors, get new high performance pads, get stainless steel brake lines, and put that Matul 600 crap.
I also have to go easy on my brakes from now on. hehe. I can be an aggressive driver from time to time and my brakes take a nice beating.
Thanks again for those who helped.
-Paul
I also have to go easy on my brakes from now on. hehe. I can be an aggressive driver from time to time and my brakes take a nice beating.
Thanks again for those who helped.
-Paul
#14
Originally Posted by slammed95
If you're not willing to spend what it takes to upgrade from the stock crappy brakes, you can't complain about how much they suck.
Just to answer your questions:
1- TET/AP Racing brake kit. 13.1" front rotors and AP 4 piston calipers. Pads are Ferodo DS2500, and rotors are AP cad plated drilled and slotted, heat treated 48 vane. Rears are stock size Brembo drilled and slotted. SS lines all around.
2- $3,200, from Top Element Tuning
3- Hands down the best upgrade to the car. Performance is amazing! These will not fade. Quality of everything is top notch. Fits perfect, and looks awesome.
Pics:
Stock front vs. AP's
Full kit
All in all, it's cheaper than totalling the car.
Just to answer your questions:
1- TET/AP Racing brake kit. 13.1" front rotors and AP 4 piston calipers. Pads are Ferodo DS2500, and rotors are AP cad plated drilled and slotted, heat treated 48 vane. Rears are stock size Brembo drilled and slotted. SS lines all around.
2- $3,200, from Top Element Tuning
3- Hands down the best upgrade to the car. Performance is amazing! These will not fade. Quality of everything is top notch. Fits perfect, and looks awesome.
Pics:
Stock front vs. AP's
Full kit
All in all, it's cheaper than totalling the car.
-Paul
#15
Originally Posted by TheMax95
thanks a lot to the guys that actually helped me. I've come to a decision about my brakes. I am going to keep the stock rotors, get new high performance pads, get stainless steel brake lines, and put that Matul 600 crap.
I also have to go easy on my brakes from now on. hehe. I can be an aggressive driver from time to time and my brakes take a nice beating.
Thanks again for those who helped.
-Paul
I also have to go easy on my brakes from now on. hehe. I can be an aggressive driver from time to time and my brakes take a nice beating.
Thanks again for those who helped.
-Paul
#16
I think are brakes are great, i drove a 350z and my brakes oem brembos with SS lines felt just as good as that 350z . But my car weighs around 2745 lbs and the lighter the car the less the brakes have to work.
Weight reduction helps everything
Weight reduction helps everything
#17
hey taggin so i don't waste to make another thread.
my right side squeeks nad have nosies like brake noises from time to time, even when it is rolling (off brake), and sometimes braking the sound comes on..
what could it be?
thanks
my right side squeeks nad have nosies like brake noises from time to time, even when it is rolling (off brake), and sometimes braking the sound comes on..
what could it be?
thanks
#18
Originally Posted by krismax
I think are brakes are great, i drove a 350z and my brakes oem brembos with SS lines felt just as good as that 350z . But my car weighs around 2745 lbs and the lighter the car the less the brakes have to work.
Weight reduction helps everything
Weight reduction helps everything
#19
FishyMan, I have a similar noise. Very slight squealing under 20MPH when car is hot. I think its the wheel bearing. Anyone else care to add input cause thats just my speculation. If it is the wheel bearing they are strong cause I've been driving like that for 10K.
#20
I think I have the noise you are talking about Fishyman as well. When I let off this let almost like metal grinding sound happens, it's hard to explain. But for the time being it has stopped, it only happended Friday night, odd.
#23
R4-s, R4-s, R4-s! Porterfield that is.
My noise is completely independant of the brakes. At first I thought it was the pad on the squealer but it happens w/ or w/o braking. I'm fairly sure its the wheel bearing.
My noise is completely independant of the brakes. At first I thought it was the pad on the squealer but it happens w/ or w/o braking. I'm fairly sure its the wheel bearing.
#25
I love my 13" cobra rotors/300z 4 piston calipers and 1" larger rear rotors to maintain proper balance. Most that say bbks don't do anything haven't driven a bbk equipped car. Especially one with the proper frt/rear bias adjustments.
#27
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I love my 13" cobra rotors/300z 4 piston calipers and 1" larger rear rotors to maintain proper balance. Most that say bbks don't do anything haven't driven a bbk equipped car. Especially one with the proper frt/rear bias adjustments.
i love my brakes, and i have no way of proving that it stops faster, but it sure feels faster. Ask anyone that has been in the car with me when I brake. And braking from 100 to 20 with no wobble is priceless.
#28
Originally Posted by geo1317
i love my brakes, and i have no way of proving that it stops faster, but it sure feels faster. Ask anyone that has been in the car with me when I brake. And braking from 100 to 20 with no wobble is priceless.
#29
My unusual sound is coming from right rear brake area. Sounds like a metalic rock is between the brake pad and rotor going at low speeds when I first start out. Like a whirr whirr whirr. Then when I put on the brake it will stop. And it will stop after I go about a mile or so down the road. Real annoying because I have new rotors/pads (stock nissan) and abs master cylinder all around. I am thinking it might be the caliper getting hung up or something.
#30
Originally Posted by TopElement
I agree with the first part, most people need to experience a true high performance brake system to believe it.
However, you gotta get over your "f/r bias" issue that you seem to bring up in every thread now that you upgraded the rears. It may feel better in a straight line, but try it on a high speed sweeper or on a road course, and you'll probably spin out.
However, you gotta get over your "f/r bias" issue that you seem to bring up in every thread now that you upgraded the rears. It may feel better in a straight line, but try it on a high speed sweeper or on a road course, and you'll probably spin out.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Testing_Brakes.htm
Hihglights:
StopTech's Balanced Brake System Philosophy
StopTech places tremendous emphasis on the concept of a balanced brake system. While they have several patents related to rotor cooling and caliper stiffness, what sets StopTech apart from other big brake companies is their dedication to preserving the factory balance. As the chart below indicates, a brake kit with too much rear bias not only results in longer stopping distances, but is unstable without the assistance of electronic stabilization control or ABS. I can relate to this with my road race car which has an adjustable proportioning valve. The handling gets pretty scary when I've got too much hydraulic pressure going to the rear brakes.
Stopping distance vs. front/rear brake bias (Audi S4 data)
If the brakes are too front biased, the front brakes tend to lock up prematurely and the stopping distances become longer, both with and without ABS. StopTech controls the bias of their kits by retaining the stock master cylinder and juggling caliper piston and rotor sizes to recreate the factory brake torque balance.
The Audi S4 kit was used to generate the numbers for the chart above. StopTech makes 3 different kits for that car, all of which are better balanced than even the factory brakes. You can see that an Audi S4 kit using the Brembo F50 caliper and a 355mm diameter rotor would be front biased due to the larger piston sizes used in that caliper. The same caliper on a 332mm rotor isn't quite as bad and produces the counterintuitive result of shorter stopping distances than the same kit with bigger rotors! A Porsche "Big Red" conversion that uses adapter brackets to attach Porsche 993TT front and rear calipers and rotors to the Audi S4 is rear biased and not only has a longer stopping distance, but it might even be somewhat unstable during hard stops if ABS is disabled.
By careful selection of caliper piston sizes and exhaustive track testing (as you'll see below), StopTech has the potential to yield the shortest stopping distances of any aftermarket brake kit, combined with safe and stable handling.
StopTech places tremendous emphasis on the concept of a balanced brake system. While they have several patents related to rotor cooling and caliper stiffness, what sets StopTech apart from other big brake companies is their dedication to preserving the factory balance. As the chart below indicates, a brake kit with too much rear bias not only results in longer stopping distances, but is unstable without the assistance of electronic stabilization control or ABS. I can relate to this with my road race car which has an adjustable proportioning valve. The handling gets pretty scary when I've got too much hydraulic pressure going to the rear brakes.
Stopping distance vs. front/rear brake bias (Audi S4 data)
If the brakes are too front biased, the front brakes tend to lock up prematurely and the stopping distances become longer, both with and without ABS. StopTech controls the bias of their kits by retaining the stock master cylinder and juggling caliper piston and rotor sizes to recreate the factory brake torque balance.
The Audi S4 kit was used to generate the numbers for the chart above. StopTech makes 3 different kits for that car, all of which are better balanced than even the factory brakes. You can see that an Audi S4 kit using the Brembo F50 caliper and a 355mm diameter rotor would be front biased due to the larger piston sizes used in that caliper. The same caliper on a 332mm rotor isn't quite as bad and produces the counterintuitive result of shorter stopping distances than the same kit with bigger rotors! A Porsche "Big Red" conversion that uses adapter brackets to attach Porsche 993TT front and rear calipers and rotors to the Audi S4 is rear biased and not only has a longer stopping distance, but it might even be somewhat unstable during hard stops if ABS is disabled.
By careful selection of caliper piston sizes and exhaustive track testing (as you'll see below), StopTech has the potential to yield the shortest stopping distances of any aftermarket brake kit, combined with safe and stable handling.
StopTech's procedure is described here as well:
Next, the driver makes a run at the skid pad at 46.5mph. Partway through the turn, he locks up the brakes and the car comes to a stop. A tape measure is then laid out between the calibrated dots nearest where the car stopped. Then, a measurement is taken from each wheel to that tape with the measurement taken along the line of sight from the wheel to a calibrated reference point. The distance from wheel to tape is recorded as is the distances from the dots and this is all entered into a laptop. Car wheelbase and track is also entered. The laptop does some crunching of numbers and comes up with the "departure angle" of the car from the intended direction. If it is outside of a narrow range, the brake system needs to be rebalanced with either larger or smaller pistons in the front or rear calipers.
#31
Um I'd defer you to Ben's reply but you have never replied to those types of questions.
Why would anyone "spin out"?? Doesn't make sense. I wouldn't "spin out" any more than a 3-4 gen with stock brakes would spin out.
Why would anyone "spin out"?? Doesn't make sense. I wouldn't "spin out" any more than a 3-4 gen with stock brakes would spin out.
Originally Posted by TopElement
I agree with the first part, most people need to experience a true high performance brake system to believe it.
However, you gotta get over your "f/r bias" issue that you seem to bring up in every thread now that you upgraded the rears. It may feel better in a straight line, but try it on a high speed sweeper or on a road course, and you'll probably spin out.
However, you gotta get over your "f/r bias" issue that you seem to bring up in every thread now that you upgraded the rears. It may feel better in a straight line, but try it on a high speed sweeper or on a road course, and you'll probably spin out.
#32
Originally Posted by TopElement
However, you gotta get over your "f/r bias" issue that you seem to bring up in every thread now that you upgraded the rears. It may feel better in a straight line, but try it on a high speed sweeper or on a road course, and you'll probably spin out.
Originally Posted by TopElement
Even when coming into a turn at 100mph, our brake systems are totally balanced. The reason most of our cars run staggered setups is to be able to run more rear bias and still retain traction.
#33
Originally Posted by TopElement
No. Larger rear rotors with same size tires all around would lock up a lot easier than a simple rear rotor and pad upgrade with wider tires.
But this stuff may be hard to comprehend for someone with stock tires and brakes.
But this stuff may be hard to comprehend for someone with stock tires and brakes.
Yeah, the fact that I have stock wheels and brakes means I can't understand how brakes work, my mechnical engineering degree not withstanding
Attempts at personal attacks don't really make you, your products, or your company look better in the eyes of potential customers.
#34
Oh, I'll also go ahead and restore your orginal reply there so everyone can see you edited your original reply to add that little stab at me and my car
Your improper grammar doesn't lend credibility either.
Your improper grammar doesn't lend credibility either.
#35
How can you set be even partially balanced? All you do is run huge front brakes.
Originally Posted by TopElement
Even when coming into a turn at 100mph, our brake systems are totally balanced. The reason most of our cars run staggered setups is to be able to run more rear bias and still retain traction.
Our brake kits are designed to work properly with the stock master cylinder, which doesn't allow adjustability of the proportioning valve. .
Our brake kits are designed to work properly with the stock master cylinder, which doesn't allow adjustability of the proportioning valve. .
#36
Again, why would it lock up any easier than a stock oem sytem if the frt/rear bias is near stock????
Wider tires in the rear doesn't affect ft/rear bias. If anything, it would make the frts lock more than before. Which is alot worse as the frt will just dive in that much more.
Wider tires in the rear doesn't affect ft/rear bias. If anything, it would make the frts lock more than before. Which is alot worse as the frt will just dive in that much more.
Originally Posted by TopElement
No. Larger rear rotors with same size tires all around would lock up a lot easier than a simple rear rotor and pad upgrade with wider tires.
#38
Yes, this is why Nissan designed the stock brakes with frt/rear bias. If anything the stock frt/rear bias has alot of safety built in (ie.. alot of frt bias already). So attaching huge frt calipers and big rotors just makes this situation worse. I used to get alot of front end dive on extreme braking with my front end bbk. When I attached the larger rear rotors, the braking is MUCH improved. No more front end dive and much more even braking.
Originally Posted by TopElement
The rears will lock up easier because although the front of the car may support an x% increase in brake force, the rear of the car will get "lighter" with the increased deceleration and will slide easier with the same x% increase. This issue is exacerbated by other factors such as weight distribution, suspension tuning, and aerodynamics.
True, wider tires don't affect brake bias directly. They are used mostly to work with the suspension adjustments desired, but also contribute to the amount of grip available, which as we all know is what ultimately limits the stopping power.
True, wider tires don't affect brake bias directly. They are used mostly to work with the suspension adjustments desired, but also contribute to the amount of grip available, which as we all know is what ultimately limits the stopping power.
#39
Originally Posted by TopElement
We use the "better is better" philosophy, which as a mechanical engineer.
I also am confused by your whole bias arguement. If bigger is better why not design a rear kit with a bigger rotor? Matt and Jeff both have upgraded the rear rotors, and both of their kit's have parking brakes.
I also do not understand how a balanced car will be more likely to spin (your comment towards Jeff's setup).
If you could please explain that for me, I have stock brakes and apparently cannot comprehend all of this brake lingo because of them. I'm sure there are others in my position aswell.
#40
I have Akebono pads and Brembo OEM rotors that I got from a local Import parts store here in Atlanta. The braking was greatly improved but I have to admit that I was coming from a worn pad and warped rotors setup. I like the setup that I have and it cost me $130 for everythnig. I have great pedal feel too.