when ever i try to burn the tires in a straight line all the car does is just "hop" and shake and its very loud in the cabin is it cus i have good tires that are always trying to grip?

 

Most of it is caused my the amnount of movement the tranny and motor mounts allow.

 

Keep doing it and you'll ruin your transmission...

The only thing you can really do is get polyurethane motor mounts.

 

so you cant burn out in a maxima?

 

Can you? Yes. Should you? Not if you want to keep your tranny.....

 

thats gay!

 

....simply amazing... you are mad becuase you can't do something that will ruin your transmission. Yes you can "burn out" although it won't be much of one really becuase you will peg leg it (one tire will burn out becuase it has no traction so all power goes to that wheel) So no real point to doing it becuase you will just look stupid with one wheel spinning and even stupider when your tranny mounts snap or even worse your tranny itself. Even RWD cars can't burn out without something breaking eventually but it is a bit less likely but can still happen given enough abuse.

 

Does LSD help?

 

LSD lets you think your doing a burn out, when in reality your really not even driving or in your car for that matter.








Were you refering to a type of differential?

 

You had me thinking there for a second until I read the bottom.

 

FWD cars are more susceptible to damage during burnouts mainly because the same wheels that do the burnout are also the wheels that steer and the same wheels that undergo the most strain during braking. The rear wheels don't do much really other than the parking brake. Also the transmission is smaller than a RWD tranny because it has to fit with the engine and differential in between the two front wheels so it can't be as "meaty" if you will. In a RWD car, only the engine has to fit in between the two front wheels, the tranny fits behind the engine, somewhere under the dash and front seats and then a driveshaft all the way to the rear differential between the two rear wheels. Because of all this extra room to play with, things can be made more "substantial" and put up with more abuse.

So because of the higher complexity of a FWD setup, it's more likely something will go wrong because there's more parts to screw up during the burnout.

If you want to do burnouts, get a muscle car (Trans Am, Mustang, Z28, etc.) with a nice V-8 and RWD and do burnouts to your hearts content. Whenever the tranny or clutch or whatever fails, they are relatively cheap to fix in comparison to a front wheeler and easier to work on. Besides, you can do donuts too unlike a front wheel setup.

As for the wheel hop, FWD cars tend to do this because they are FWD. RWD cars do the exact same thing if you try and peel out in reverse, they hop. You'll always tend to get wheel hop when you're pulling the weight of the car, like when going forward in FWD car or in reverse in a RWD car. But when pushing the weight of the car, the fact that the wheels are at the back end of the direction you want to go in causes the length of the car to put leverage on the wheels and keep them planted to the ground. This is the reason funny cars and dragsters are very long, for leverage to the drive wheels. If you try and do a burnout in reverse (highly not recommended), you will not get any wheel hop in a FWD car.

 

RWD cars with IRS tend to have alot of wheel hop as well...

 

This is true, for burnouts, a live axle rear-end is the best choice because it can be multi-linked to the chasis if it isn't already from factory. But wheel hop with a RWD with IRS is still much less than a FWD car and easier to minimize.

 

wheel hop is pretty much a minor burn out.

 

uhhh okay if you put it that way, wheel hop is your tire losing traction which makes a chirp... its not exactly a burn out but okay.

 

wheel hop is not a burn out....if you notice for us 5spd guys, experiment with your launches and drop clutch releases....too low and the car bogs, then there's a sweet spot, then wheel hop which i caused by poor suspension tuning, and the weight transferring off the drive wheels (front) to the rear...giving even less traction, almost all of it can be effectively tuned out with poly filled engine mounts and proper suspension tuning and dialed in tire pressures....however, after a certain rpm, when you drop the clutch, you will notice that the front axle no longer has a tendancy to rotate on it's own centerline (which is basically what wheelhop is) and instead the tire traction is broken completely, and the tires just spin and smoke....where as the midrange to just under the midrange results in a half traction, half spinning issue which contributes to the wheel hop phenomenom which is perpetuated by the rebounding of suspension and motor mounts which only serves to continue the wheel hop until you let off the throttle

so in effect, a proper burnout results in almost no traction, and hence no wheel hop.....drop the clutch with lower throttle/rpm and you get half traction, and a slight bogging effect between the clutch and flywheel as well....