Symptoms of bad MAF sensor ?
Thread Starter
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Symptoms of bad MAF sensor ?
Hello everyone,
my 98 SE 5spd has been acting weird lately (engine kicking or cutting out briefly at low throttle, idle goes up and down) and someone here suggested this might be a bad MAF sensor. Dealer was no help since no ECU code. Can anyone describe what the symptoms of a bad MAF might be, before I go out and buy a new one?
Thanks!
Pete
my 98 SE 5spd has been acting weird lately (engine kicking or cutting out briefly at low throttle, idle goes up and down) and someone here suggested this might be a bad MAF sensor. Dealer was no help since no ECU code. Can anyone describe what the symptoms of a bad MAF might be, before I go out and buy a new one?
Thanks!
Pete
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Posts: 16,024
Engine hunting for idle and stalling is a sign of your throttle position sensor failing.
Replace it even though a code isnt' popping up yet. It's working, but most likely just slightly out of spec.
Replace it even though a code isnt' popping up yet. It's working, but most likely just slightly out of spec.
Originally Posted by CarbonDreams95
bump...back up to the top
it was still on the first page
if your car is stalling.. i would:
1) change my plugs
2) change my fuel filter
3) clean my tb
4) change my Air Filter
Bad MAF has much more severe symptoms
Thread Starter
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Posts: 6
Car runs just fine above 2000 RPM or so. Some of the worst symptoms come just after I leave the house, in first gear as I get to the first stop sign. Car will jerk and kick as if ignition was being rapidly turned on and off. If I then move it in neutral, I will see the RPMs go down and up a few times, then engine dies. Doesn't happen every time though. Throttle body has been cleaned by dealer, so I will rule that out.
Any more suggestions ? Car has about 53000 mi.
Thanks
Pete
Any more suggestions ? Car has about 53000 mi.
Thanks
Pete
Originally Posted by Peteben
Car runs just fine above 2000 RPM or so. Some of the worst symptoms come just after I leave the house, in first gear as I get to the first stop sign. Car will jerk and kick as if ignition was being rapidly turned on and off. If I then move it in neutral, I will see the RPMs go down and up a few times, then engine dies. Doesn't happen every time though. Throttle body has been cleaned by dealer, so I will rule that out.
Any more suggestions ? Car has about 53000 mi.
Thanks
Pete
Any more suggestions ? Car has about 53000 mi.
Thanks
Pete
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6
It's a manual, so its not the tranny. Problem disapears whenever I step on gas. Would ignition coil, plugs or injector problems only show up at low throttle? Also, how should I check the coils and injectors?
Thanks again
Pete
Thanks again
Pete
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
Symptoms of bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
Hi Pete-Ben,
Your symptoms describe almost perfectly the symptoms of a failing TPS.
My symptoms were:
1. At low throttle, and usually within a narrow range of low throttle, the engine would go from running great to completely cutting out, as if the ignition had been turned off momentarily.
2. At idle, the idle speed would seem to seek or drift up/down, and sometime stall entirely.
3. No engine code was thrown for many months until finally "Bank2 too rich. After resetting it did not come back.
4. When driving along, then pressing the clutch and releasing the throttle, engine would often die.
The TPS is easy to test, just turn off the engine, remove the plug for the TPS, use an ohm meter to view the resistance between pin 1 and 2 while VERY SLOWLY going through the full range of throttle, if you see any jumps the TPS is bad. You should also check the Throttle Position switch at this time. A new TPS assemble costs about $75, but you can also repair the bad one most likely by removing the seemingly irremovable back and using an alcohol soaked swab to clean the resistive film. You may need epoxy to close it all back up again.
Hope this helps, after many months of bad running, my Maxima is like new again.
p.s. You will need to reset the TPS position and reset the ECU after you are all done if you make changes.
Your symptoms describe almost perfectly the symptoms of a failing TPS.
My symptoms were:
1. At low throttle, and usually within a narrow range of low throttle, the engine would go from running great to completely cutting out, as if the ignition had been turned off momentarily.
2. At idle, the idle speed would seem to seek or drift up/down, and sometime stall entirely.
3. No engine code was thrown for many months until finally "Bank2 too rich. After resetting it did not come back.
4. When driving along, then pressing the clutch and releasing the throttle, engine would often die.
The TPS is easy to test, just turn off the engine, remove the plug for the TPS, use an ohm meter to view the resistance between pin 1 and 2 while VERY SLOWLY going through the full range of throttle, if you see any jumps the TPS is bad. You should also check the Throttle Position switch at this time. A new TPS assemble costs about $75, but you can also repair the bad one most likely by removing the seemingly irremovable back and using an alcohol soaked swab to clean the resistive film. You may need epoxy to close it all back up again.
Hope this helps, after many months of bad running, my Maxima is like new again.
p.s. You will need to reset the TPS position and reset the ECU after you are all done if you make changes.
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Hi Pete-Ben,
Your symptoms describe almost perfectly the symptoms of a failing TPS.
My symptoms were:
1. At low throttle, and usually within a narrow range of low throttle, the engine would go from running great to completely cutting out, as if the ignition had been turned off momentarily.
2. At idle, the idle speed would seem to seek or drift up/down, and sometime stall entirely.
3. No engine code was thrown for many months until finally "Bank2 too rich. After resetting it did not come back.
4. When driving along, then pressing the clutch and releasing the throttle, engine would often die.
The TPS is easy to test, just turn off the engine, remove the plug for the TPS, use an ohm meter to view the resistance between pin 1 and 2 while VERY SLOWLY going through the full range of throttle, if you see any jumps the TPS is bad. You should also check the Throttle Position switch at this time. A new TPS assemble costs about $75, but you can also repair the bad one most likely by removing the seemingly irremovable back and using an alcohol soaked swab to clean the resistive film. You may need epoxy to close it all back up again.
Hope this helps, after many months of bad running, my Maxima is like new again.
p.s. You will need to reset the TPS position and reset the ECU after you are all done if you make changes.
Your symptoms describe almost perfectly the symptoms of a failing TPS.
My symptoms were:
1. At low throttle, and usually within a narrow range of low throttle, the engine would go from running great to completely cutting out, as if the ignition had been turned off momentarily.
2. At idle, the idle speed would seem to seek or drift up/down, and sometime stall entirely.
3. No engine code was thrown for many months until finally "Bank2 too rich. After resetting it did not come back.
4. When driving along, then pressing the clutch and releasing the throttle, engine would often die.
The TPS is easy to test, just turn off the engine, remove the plug for the TPS, use an ohm meter to view the resistance between pin 1 and 2 while VERY SLOWLY going through the full range of throttle, if you see any jumps the TPS is bad. You should also check the Throttle Position switch at this time. A new TPS assemble costs about $75, but you can also repair the bad one most likely by removing the seemingly irremovable back and using an alcohol soaked swab to clean the resistive film. You may need epoxy to close it all back up again.
Hope this helps, after many months of bad running, my Maxima is like new again.
p.s. You will need to reset the TPS position and reset the ECU after you are all done if you make changes.
If it tests bad, you can get the TPS for about $60 shipped from www.rockauto.com Thats where I just got mine. Search for a coupon code. They always have 5% off codes floating around the net. Thats the lowest price for a new TPS that I was able to find. It's not a part I would buy used.
Woah.. just realized that is your 1st post! We need more of you's around here! Welcome!
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I am surprised nobody has mentioned cleaning the IACV? I used to have some problems with my idle and RPM's in the lower ranges that all went away after I completely took apart, cleaned, and rebuilt my idle air control valve.
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