upgrading: Y-pipe, front/back strut bars
10-22-2004, 10:53 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
upgrading: Y-pipe, front/back strut bars
ok, for some reason, i can't search, so wht ever. anyways im planning to get some upgrades on my 95 maxima. im gonna get a y pipe, and a pair of strut bars, and then, if i have enough money, get a cold intake. any suggestions? should i get 'em online, or jus goto a local mechanic shop, and get it ther? and should i get a stainless steel, or aluminum Y-pipe? i was thinkin aluminum, cause i don't wanna make my car heavy, but you guys know better. and also could someone help with the cold intake, i wanna good one, but i don't wanna pay an excess of 150 for one....... my budget rite now is under 350.
- thanks
- thanks
10-22-2004, 12:00 PM
#2
i think there is a group deal going on right now in the group deal section for warpspeed y-pipes $160 shipped. i got mine off there and love it, best price you will find.
as for CAI, i think the BOMZ is alover ebay for pretty cheap. a lot of the ppl who have them have nothing bad to say about it.
as for the reatr strut bar. i have never ridden in a car with one, but ive heard it barely makes a difference. if you want a big handling improvement, get a rear sway bar. i have one and felt the difference imediatly after having it installed.
as for CAI, i think the BOMZ is alover ebay for pretty cheap. a lot of the ppl who have them have nothing bad to say about it.
as for the reatr strut bar. i have never ridden in a car with one, but ive heard it barely makes a difference. if you want a big handling improvement, get a rear sway bar. i have one and felt the difference imediatly after having it installed.
10-22-2004, 12:01 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 127
10-22-2004, 12:11 PM
#4
I have never heard of any exhaust stuff being made of aluminum. Even so, the stock unit weighs in a 19Ibs as supposed to my Budget which was 9Ibs. Cats weigh a bunch as well as all that heat shielding. I suggest the budget or warpspeed for the bargain. I don't suggest having a local exhaust shop making it for you for two reasons. 1. They will be making it custom and therefore it will take a long time. This long time may cost money but that isn't the worst part. 2. Only very nice exhaust shops have mandrel bending equipment. Go to www.budgetexhaust.com or the GD forum. As for the FSTB, there are many cheap ones out there and for that situation I recomend aluminum as you suggested.
There aren't many RSTB's on the market except Stillen's and theirs is $150+. 96Stillen_Max is correct about the RSTB not doing much. It does do something though. Our cars were blessed with a very flexy chassis from the factory. The front is especially flexy because there is a large amount of weight combined with a large gap in the frame. The rear doesn't have as much weight or a giant hole but it does have both in a smaller quantity. I recomend every chassis stiffening mod available as it does greatly improve the handling and rigity of the car. Making the chassis stiffer will make the car seem more quality as you will have fewer interior rattles. If you are going for chassis stiffening the FSTB doesn't make the largest effect in the grand scheme of things. In proportion to the LTB or SFC's it does next to nothing but those mentioned will break your budget. I'm currently developing a RSTB that will be made of steel and aluminum in the appropriate places. It will be less than $100 shipped and it will be ready to buy in less than a month. Check my sig for details.
There aren't many RSTB's on the market except Stillen's and theirs is $150+. 96Stillen_Max is correct about the RSTB not doing much. It does do something though. Our cars were blessed with a very flexy chassis from the factory. The front is especially flexy because there is a large amount of weight combined with a large gap in the frame. The rear doesn't have as much weight or a giant hole but it does have both in a smaller quantity. I recomend every chassis stiffening mod available as it does greatly improve the handling and rigity of the car. Making the chassis stiffer will make the car seem more quality as you will have fewer interior rattles. If you are going for chassis stiffening the FSTB doesn't make the largest effect in the grand scheme of things. In proportion to the LTB or SFC's it does next to nothing but those mentioned will break your budget. I'm currently developing a RSTB that will be made of steel and aluminum in the appropriate places. It will be less than $100 shipped and it will be ready to buy in less than a month. Check my sig for details.
10-22-2004, 03:51 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
so a front strut bar, and a rear sway bar, i'll look at the price and post bak. as for CAI, how much hp will i gain? and whts 'budget', i have seen that word alot while checking out the forum but i do know wht aftermarket means (i think). and as for the y-pipe, i thought i saw an aluminum one, but i mus have misread or somthing, becuase when i checked back, they only had one kind, so my bad, other than thatm broaner, whts better, a rear strut bar, or a rear sway bar?
btb, post bak later
btb, post bak later
10-22-2004, 04:01 PM
#7
Looks like its not on the web site any more. 
I know I didnt pay more than Benjamin for it thou. I would call them up and ask if they still have some. www.courtesyparts.com
Dub
I know I didnt pay more than Benjamin for it thou. I would call them up and ask if they still have some. www.courtesyparts.comDub
10-22-2004, 04:20 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
thanks dub, ii'll call 'em up. well i was checking the prices on the sway bars, they pretty expensive, i was hoping to pay like 100 on the strut bar and sway bar, but its gonna cost me more than 150.... i was hoping to put rest of hte money in a good cold air intake. one of my friend has a z350, and i was hoping to take it, well that is the goal, im gonna check prices on turbo too. and oh yea, btw, im a noob! so i don't know alot of the abreviations, so i mite need hlp, thanks. well post bak after i do some more research.
10-22-2004, 04:38 PM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
checking the intakes..... split on the the hybrid and the CAI.... i was thinkin CAI cause i want the acceleration, but i don't wanna lose that much rpms in the midrange (did i say that rite?)....
INTAKE:
place racing cold air intake or bomz? i want good rpm gains, but is the performance worth the price difference, meaning whts the difference in performance between the two?
HYBRID:
fast lane performance hybrid...
but plz advice me here? which one is good? i want the acceleration, but will i lose a noticeable of midrange power that i could get with a hybrid, and vice versa, will i lose rpms on the lower end that i could get with a CIA?
-thanks y'all
INTAKE:
place racing cold air intake or bomz? i want good rpm gains, but is the performance worth the price difference, meaning whts the difference in performance between the two?
HYBRID:
fast lane performance hybrid...
but plz advice me here? which one is good? i want the acceleration, but will i lose a noticeable of midrange power that i could get with a hybrid, and vice versa, will i lose rpms on the lower end that i could get with a CIA?
-thanks y'all
10-22-2004, 05:22 PM
#10
RSB (rear sway bar) is gonna cost you like $120 from Courtesy. I think this is a pretty good price unless you can pick up a good used one from a member.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=
Dub
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=
Dub
10-24-2004, 06:47 PM
#13
You cannot not compare a RSTB and RSB. These two things are designed to do totally different things and therefore are not comparable. The RSTB is meant to stiffen the chassis while the RSB is meant to reduced body roll. I recomend both. The RSB will have a more obvious effect but both have an effect. It depends on what type of driver you are. If you an inattentive driver I don't recomend a RSB because it will make the car unpredictable and unsafe. If you are very attentive in all driving situations that is up to you because it will make the car more snappy in the back but it is controlable.
10-25-2004, 02:11 AM
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
thanks guys, appreciate it
now.... wht CAI to get? the Place Racing Cold Air Intake is like $200, but the ones over at ebay are like only 40$.... whts the difference?
wht y-pipe should i get? the budget one was around $200, but these ones are cheaper:
140 shipped
205 shipped
the latter ones expensive, and wht are 02 sensors?
could somone explain that to me plz.
wht else.... i htink thats all the questions i have rite now
-thanks
now.... wht CAI to get? the Place Racing Cold Air Intake is like $200, but the ones over at ebay are like only 40$.... whts the difference?
wht y-pipe should i get? the budget one was around $200, but these ones are cheaper:
140 shipped
205 shipped
the latter ones expensive, and wht are 02 sensors?
I bought this pipe in order to use it but its a fed emmision pipe which and i have a CA emmision pipe which means i have 3 O2 sensors and the pipe
has 2
has 2
wht else.... i htink thats all the questions i have rite now
-thanks
10-25-2004, 09:02 AM
#15
If your going to get a CAI any of the designs that go behind the fender are fine. Its all about what you want it to look like. If you want you could simply make your own.
An o2 sensor is a sensor that measures the amount of oxygen left in the exhaust after combustion. These sensors insure that the engine is working properly. A federal spec car has a total of three o2 sensors. A Cali spec car has 4. A Cali spec car is one that conforms to the emissions regulations in California. The difference between the two is the design of the exhaust manifold and y-pipe. On a fed spec the exhaust manifolds are very similar on the front and rear bank. The down pipe connects directly to the manifold at about the same height. In a fed spec car the pre-cats are on the y-pipe. On a cali spec the front exhaust manifold is much longer because it contains the manifold and pre-cat within one piece. This means that the y-pipe for each type of car is a very different shape. A fed spec y-pipe look like: I__I___ A cali spec looks like: __I___ Find out what type of car you have and order the matching y-pipe.
An o2 sensor is a sensor that measures the amount of oxygen left in the exhaust after combustion. These sensors insure that the engine is working properly. A federal spec car has a total of three o2 sensors. A Cali spec car has 4. A Cali spec car is one that conforms to the emissions regulations in California. The difference between the two is the design of the exhaust manifold and y-pipe. On a fed spec the exhaust manifolds are very similar on the front and rear bank. The down pipe connects directly to the manifold at about the same height. In a fed spec car the pre-cats are on the y-pipe. On a cali spec the front exhaust manifold is much longer because it contains the manifold and pre-cat within one piece. This means that the y-pipe for each type of car is a very different shape. A fed spec y-pipe look like: I__I___ A cali spec looks like: __I___ Find out what type of car you have and order the matching y-pipe.
10-25-2004, 11:01 AM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
thanks broaner, took me some looking around to figure out wht a exhasut manifold was, and the down pipe, etc, but i think i got it figured out. im thinkin mines' a fed spec, its a 95 max, and i live in GA, so i don't think i gotta comply with the emission regulation of cali, but i'll still double check to be sure. and as for the intake, i can make my own? i would love to find out how to do it, but i dunno... i really don't know crap about cars, so im pretty sure i should jus get the ones on ebay rather than attempt it.... is ther a chance i could mess up my to the point that i can't put any other CAI..... i don't think so, but to be sure..... i checked out the how to's sticky, whts an OSCAI, and a midpipe? and also a hacked air box...... i wanna give this thing a try, see how it turns out, wht tools do i need?
and thanks again!!
and thanks again!!
10-25-2004, 11:49 AM
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
whts the performance gain? and one more thing, why are some CAI's expensive than others? i mean if you can make one on your own, than why do ppl sell it so damn expensive? whts the difference in performance? like, why is this so expensive?
is hackin the air box like makin your own intake? is that how you make an intake?
whts an OSCAI, and a midpipe?
-thanks
is hackin the air box like makin your own intake? is that how you make an intake?
whts an OSCAI, and a midpipe?
-thanks
10-25-2004, 11:56 AM
#19
deadman,
i say you should simply go for a placeracing style cai, you can get it for about 50 bucks from ebay. i tried all three different types of cai's already, the placeracing style gives me the maximum gain that i can feel. by the way, my 95 maxima is a manual transmission. the downside to this cai is the installation. it's really a bittch to install this intake. you have to cut a three inch hole beside the battery and under the fuselink box. you got to cut carefully because there is a huge bundle of wires you don't want to cut off. after all, it's worth the time. it really bangs the car when you hit the gas pedal.
my recomends for a y-pipe, get one from budget. it's the most secured source of y-pipe you can get. two weeks ago, i got mine for 215 shipped. they also gave me a free test-pipe. it's a piece piping that replaces the catalytic converter right after the y-pipe. does the testpipe give me any gains? i can't tell because i replace the y-pipe and the test pipe at the same time. all i know is, this car has more power than ever!!!. it's a monster on the road. i am not lying, two nights ago, my friend with a 2004 mustang GT heard so much $hit about my upgrades, he challenged me into a race on the streets. i wasn't knowing what's coming at all. but i went for it.
we had about the same takeoff timing. but his car aint' pulling much distance outta mine. for the whole time, i was able to keep up with him without losing much. so i would say, by the time we done racing in the 1/4 mile distance, he is only about 1 car in front of me. then he comes off $hittin, saying that he didn't shift right and ****. after three races with about the same outcomes, he said that he doesn't know how to shift right. i say that **** can't even $hit right.
make sure you get the stainless steel y-pipe, there are some major downsides to the aluminum ones: first in microscopic point of view, the surface of the stainless steel is much smoother than the aluminum. it will allow better flow of the exhaust air. second, the stainless steel is much more resistant to corrosion than the aluminums. you definitely don't want all the corrosions to eat up your pipe early. also, eventhough the stainless steel is much heavier than aluminum, stainless steel has better thermal resistance factor than aluminum, it is less likely to expand and change shape due to high heat transfer. so much being said, decision is still up to you.
hope this will help
i say you should simply go for a placeracing style cai, you can get it for about 50 bucks from ebay. i tried all three different types of cai's already, the placeracing style gives me the maximum gain that i can feel. by the way, my 95 maxima is a manual transmission. the downside to this cai is the installation. it's really a bittch to install this intake. you have to cut a three inch hole beside the battery and under the fuselink box. you got to cut carefully because there is a huge bundle of wires you don't want to cut off. after all, it's worth the time. it really bangs the car when you hit the gas pedal.
my recomends for a y-pipe, get one from budget. it's the most secured source of y-pipe you can get. two weeks ago, i got mine for 215 shipped. they also gave me a free test-pipe. it's a piece piping that replaces the catalytic converter right after the y-pipe. does the testpipe give me any gains? i can't tell because i replace the y-pipe and the test pipe at the same time. all i know is, this car has more power than ever!!!. it's a monster on the road. i am not lying, two nights ago, my friend with a 2004 mustang GT heard so much $hit about my upgrades, he challenged me into a race on the streets. i wasn't knowing what's coming at all. but i went for it.
we had about the same takeoff timing. but his car aint' pulling much distance outta mine. for the whole time, i was able to keep up with him without losing much. so i would say, by the time we done racing in the 1/4 mile distance, he is only about 1 car in front of me. then he comes off $hittin, saying that he didn't shift right and ****. after three races with about the same outcomes, he said that he doesn't know how to shift right. i say that **** can't even $hit right.
make sure you get the stainless steel y-pipe, there are some major downsides to the aluminum ones: first in microscopic point of view, the surface of the stainless steel is much smoother than the aluminum. it will allow better flow of the exhaust air. second, the stainless steel is much more resistant to corrosion than the aluminums. you definitely don't want all the corrosions to eat up your pipe early. also, eventhough the stainless steel is much heavier than aluminum, stainless steel has better thermal resistance factor than aluminum, it is less likely to expand and change shape due to high heat transfer. so much being said, decision is still up to you.
hope this will help
10-25-2004, 12:17 PM
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
mine's automaitc... does that make much of a difference?
the intake, the place racing one, is like 116$ shipped, i gave the link above, in my last post.
and as for the y-pipe, they all do the same job don't they? transfer gas from the manifold to the cat, rite? i mite be wrong, so someone plz very . if wht i say is tru, then why buy one thats expensive? im jus curious, thas all, i thank you for your advice cyu1, but i wanna know wht im doing, cuase if a friend of mine wants his y-pipe changed, and wants me to do it, and asks wths the difference between this y-pipe thats 60$ more than that, i don't wanna look stupid, so could someone plz explain this to me, thanks
and you tried all three? interesting... can i like hack the airbox and get the place racing intake? like try a combination.... is that possible, and if it is, how much performance gain is ther?
one more thing, i jus read:
is that tru? heres the website btw.
the intake, the place racing one, is like 116$ shipped, i gave the link above, in my last post.
and as for the y-pipe, they all do the same job don't they? transfer gas from the manifold to the cat, rite? i mite be wrong, so someone plz very
. if wht i say is tru, then why buy one thats expensive? im jus curious, thas all, i thank you for your advice cyu1, but i wanna know wht im doing, cuase if a friend of mine wants his y-pipe changed, and wants me to do it, and asks wths the difference between this y-pipe thats 60$ more than that, i don't wanna look stupid, so could someone plz explain this to me, thanks and you tried all three? interesting... can i like hack the airbox and get the place racing intake? like try a combination.... is that possible, and if it is, how much performance gain is ther?
one more thing, i jus read:
Exhaust manifolds are usually pretty restrictive to the flow of exhaust gas, and thus waste a lot of power because your pistons have to push on the exhaust gasses pretty hard to get them out. So why does virtually every new automobile sold have exhaust manifolds? Because they are cheap to produce, and easy to install.
10-25-2004, 12:46 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
check this out:
y-pipe: from warspeed, 160$ shipped if you mention the org!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=343526
i think thats good! and it's aluminum:
y-pipe: from warspeed, 160$ shipped if you mention the org!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=343526
i think thats good! and it's aluminum:
FROM SCREAMINGVE:
My alumumim Y-pipe didn't have any problems with the 2 years I had the car, No rust problems. According to the FAQ page on WSP website, an aluminum pipe should last somewhere upwards of 7 years. If you don't plan on keeping your car that long, go ahead and get an aluminum one.
My alumumim Y-pipe didn't have any problems with the 2 years I had the car, No rust problems. According to the FAQ page on WSP website, an aluminum pipe should last somewhere upwards of 7 years. If you don't plan on keeping your car that long, go ahead and get an aluminum one.
10-25-2004, 01:39 PM
#23
deadman
i'll still tell you that it's best that you go with a stainless steel y-pipe. there are cases when people live near corrosive areas that their aluminum pipes rust out within 2 years. i'd say if i buy something, i buy the best materials that they can make it with(of course with not much extra to pay). especailly for our maxima's. i wouldn't slip just because i found a cheaper replacement. of course i would like to save up for other things.
another thing is: if you have been looking at some of the posts about y-pipes, you should notice that many people had trouble with the bees-in-the-can effect from warpspeed y-pipes. it's really annoying to get something and end up not liking it. especially after you install the whole thing. budget y-pipe does not have these. in fact it's a fully stainless steel y-pipe. the warpspeed is somewhat an alloy of the aluminum and stainless steel. my brother used to have the warpspeed y-pipe, and we stick a magnet on it. that puppy won't stick to it at some places. to us, it just tells us that the pipe material is not evenly made thru-out. he then wreck the car and got a new max, now he is buying one from budget.
for the intake, the one you put in the link is way too expensive, that's the injen style cai, i am not sure if that's the best choice of intake for you. it takes the air in from the radiator inside the engine bay. it's still hot air you are getting. do you want that? i had that on a year ago, it is no different than a popcharger intake. waste of money. here is a good link for you : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=38634
get this intake for about 60 shipped then go off to buy a k&n cone filter. you'll feel the difference right away. about the midpipe, are you referring to the exhaust, if so, that's the b-pipe as we all speak about. you want to keep that on your car because it quiets down the noise your exhaust makes. with out it. your car is going to sound extremely raspy, so raspy when i stand right behind the car and have someone rev the engine, it can literally tear my ear drums just to listen to it. trust me, you wont get much noticible gains replacing pipings after the y-pipe. just keep everything stock. the oscai is the oogali style cai. it's a custome cai you can make outta your factor intake box. that's for people who dont' wanna spend that money to get the real intake setup. i wouldn't recommend that simply because i don't think that's professional and efficient at all.
i'll still tell you that it's best that you go with a stainless steel y-pipe. there are cases when people live near corrosive areas that their aluminum pipes rust out within 2 years. i'd say if i buy something, i buy the best materials that they can make it with(of course with not much extra to pay). especailly for our maxima's. i wouldn't slip just because i found a cheaper replacement. of course i would like to save up for other things.
another thing is: if you have been looking at some of the posts about y-pipes, you should notice that many people had trouble with the bees-in-the-can effect from warpspeed y-pipes. it's really annoying to get something and end up not liking it. especially after you install the whole thing. budget y-pipe does not have these. in fact it's a fully stainless steel y-pipe. the warpspeed is somewhat an alloy of the aluminum and stainless steel. my brother used to have the warpspeed y-pipe, and we stick a magnet on it. that puppy won't stick to it at some places. to us, it just tells us that the pipe material is not evenly made thru-out. he then wreck the car and got a new max, now he is buying one from budget.
for the intake, the one you put in the link is way too expensive, that's the injen style cai, i am not sure if that's the best choice of intake for you. it takes the air in from the radiator inside the engine bay. it's still hot air you are getting. do you want that? i had that on a year ago, it is no different than a popcharger intake. waste of money. here is a good link for you : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=38634
get this intake for about 60 shipped then go off to buy a k&n cone filter. you'll feel the difference right away. about the midpipe, are you referring to the exhaust, if so, that's the b-pipe as we all speak about. you want to keep that on your car because it quiets down the noise your exhaust makes. with out it. your car is going to sound extremely raspy, so raspy when i stand right behind the car and have someone rev the engine, it can literally tear my ear drums just to listen to it. trust me, you wont get much noticible gains replacing pipings after the y-pipe. just keep everything stock. the oscai is the oogali style cai. it's a custome cai you can make outta your factor intake box. that's for people who dont' wanna spend that money to get the real intake setup. i wouldn't recommend that simply because i don't think that's professional and efficient at all.
10-25-2004, 07:28 PM
#27
that intake is good, too. but when you try to install it. make sure you don't screw too hard on the four bolts in the adaptor plate. you'll crack the thingy. i cracked my maf sensor screwing it up too tight. other than that you are good to go.
the search function in this forum had long been disabled or malfunctioning. for some reason we cannot search anymore.
the ecu is you engine control unit. it's the brain in the maxima. pretty everything having to do with the engine has to route thru this ecu. the maxima is equipped with a rev limiter that cuts off when the rpm hits 6.25-6.5 rpms. this time the engine will automatically cut off the fuel supply. this is a cut back for the 5-speeds, but for an automatic, it shifts automatically to the next gear to reclimb the rpm range. it is said that unlimiting the rpm range can unleash a great deal of horsepower for a prolonged low end driving range. after the cai and y-pipe, this is the next major mod i am looking into. about may next year, i'll have mine running in the car. i read many posts about this puppy here, you have to be careful which company you get this ecu mod from. so far the best is from jwt, there may be some others, but jwt has been the dominance in this mod. it's said to gain about 12-20 hp in all rpm ranges. i doubt that very much, but i am going for it.
this is how you purchase the ecu: it's going to cost you no less than 600 bucks unless you run into a great group deal. first you may want to buy another ecu to temporary replace your own. it's got to be the same year and tranny. then you send yours to jwt in their ecu upgrade package. they'll take some time to mod yours in their shop. it'll take you at least 2 weeks, some even complained that it takes more than 2 months. i really don't know much about this timing stuff. after that, they'll send it back to you for you to put it on your car.
ecu can be found in the passenger side under the dash somewhere. when you are going to do it, you can post more threads about it. i'm sure there's lots of us that has it. they'll guide you thru the way.
the search function in this forum had long been disabled or malfunctioning. for some reason we cannot search anymore.
the ecu is you engine control unit. it's the brain in the maxima. pretty everything having to do with the engine has to route thru this ecu. the maxima is equipped with a rev limiter that cuts off when the rpm hits 6.25-6.5 rpms. this time the engine will automatically cut off the fuel supply. this is a cut back for the 5-speeds, but for an automatic, it shifts automatically to the next gear to reclimb the rpm range. it is said that unlimiting the rpm range can unleash a great deal of horsepower for a prolonged low end driving range. after the cai and y-pipe, this is the next major mod i am looking into. about may next year, i'll have mine running in the car. i read many posts about this puppy here, you have to be careful which company you get this ecu mod from. so far the best is from jwt, there may be some others, but jwt has been the dominance in this mod. it's said to gain about 12-20 hp in all rpm ranges. i doubt that very much, but i am going for it.
this is how you purchase the ecu: it's going to cost you no less than 600 bucks unless you run into a great group deal. first you may want to buy another ecu to temporary replace your own. it's got to be the same year and tranny. then you send yours to jwt in their ecu upgrade package. they'll take some time to mod yours in their shop. it'll take you at least 2 weeks, some even complained that it takes more than 2 months. i really don't know much about this timing stuff. after that, they'll send it back to you for you to put it on your car.
ecu can be found in the passenger side under the dash somewhere. when you are going to do it, you can post more threads about it. i'm sure there's lots of us that has it. they'll guide you thru the way.
10-25-2004, 08:19 PM
#28
you can only search if you donate, and unless you live near the ocean in GA or have money to spare, there isn't much need for a stainless y-pipe, by the time an aluminized one rusts out the car will have sh.it the bed already. Just think about how many miles/years are on your car now with the stock one, you can assume the new one will last about that long too
10-25-2004, 09:19 PM
#29
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
wht about the bee-in-the-can noise? apparenlty the aluminized one has that prob, and the stainless dosn't. wht do you guys suggest? and so after im done with these bunch of upgrades (FSTB, RSB, y-pipe, and intake) im gonna tackle the suspension and wheels/tires. so which y-pipe? and one more question... the cold intake is the one that makes the niosewhen ou shift gear, rite?
wths a MEVI?
wths a MEVI?
10-25-2004, 09:43 PM
#30
The beez in the can noise is just on some y-pipes. I don't think all warpspeeds come like that and I'm sure some Budget y-pipes do come like that. I have a Stainless Steel Budget y-pipe and love it. Since you live in GA I would suggest the aluminized one. Salt usually causes rust either from the ocean or after it snows. As for the intake sound you will hear it starting at about 3k rpms(At least that's what it is for mine). The CAI sounds really nice. I got mine off of ebay with a k&n filter. After 50k miles it still works great.
10-26-2004, 04:05 AM
#34
Originally Posted by deadman.inc
lets say in the future, if i want the cattman headers, can i buy it without the y-pipe? these come with the y-pipe. and is it tru i have to punch in my spare tire thing if i want dual exhaust?
Notice the bend?
Here's what the y-pipe itself would look like:
Yes to the dual exhaust. UNLESS, you can run the extra piping around it. Someone else can fill this in.
10-26-2004, 04:17 AM
#35
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
thanks man, so it did be a waste of money to buy a y-pipe now, cause im planning to get those headers in the future, like in a year, even less...... decision decision... thanks tho, appreciate it. i was reading around, apparently i can get a catbak dual exhast sys from a local muffler shop.... up in NY, it cost them around 300, if i recall properly, down here it hsould be a lil cheaper rite? im gonna go around and get a quote from the local muffler shops, later tho, once i know wht im talkin about, don't wanna sound stupid when i talk to the dood.
why is it bend like that in the header? won't that like restrict the air flow? why didn't they merge that pipe that goes round, into the pipe directly, like they did in the y-pipe below that. or make it so that the y-pipe and the headers could be bought separately...
is that tru? if it is, how do you do that? wow thats awesome!
And then all the upgrades this dude mentioned in this thread apparently make his car go faster in auto..... could someone explain the mods to me, plz, like why bullet proof? won't that make the car heavy? etc.... im askin too many ?s arn't i?...
why is it bend like that in the header? won't that like restrict the air flow? why didn't they merge that pipe that goes round, into the pipe directly, like they did in the y-pipe below that. or make it so that the y-pipe and the headers could be bought separately...
BY Igobuk
Now now, seriously though.
I took the heating element out of my hairdryer and hooked that up to my intake. The results were incredible. It took 4 seconds off my quarter mile and it raised my top speed to 180 MPH. No joke. Of course I needed a power inverter to make the hairdryer work in my car but it's a small price to pay. I can blow the doors off Corvettes now. I'll do a write up when I get a chance. Don't buy it off eBay, your hairdryer motor has plenty of power.
Of course for ultimate results, if you have time, use a leaf blower motor and for fuel tie it in to your cars fuel line. It's like a supercharger with nitrous. Sick results. And you'll LOVE the intake sound you get. Talk about a growl.
Now now, seriously though.
I took the heating element out of my hairdryer and hooked that up to my intake. The results were incredible. It took 4 seconds off my quarter mile and it raised my top speed to 180 MPH. No joke. Of course I needed a power inverter to make the hairdryer work in my car but it's a small price to pay. I can blow the doors off Corvettes now. I'll do a write up when I get a chance. Don't buy it off eBay, your hairdryer motor has plenty of power.
Of course for ultimate results, if you have time, use a leaf blower motor and for fuel tie it in to your cars fuel line. It's like a supercharger with nitrous. Sick results. And you'll LOVE the intake sound you get. Talk about a growl.
And then all the upgrades this dude mentioned in this thread apparently make his car go faster in auto..... could someone explain the mods to me, plz, like why bullet proof? won't that make the car heavy? etc.... im askin too many ?s arn't i?...
10-26-2004, 05:44 AM
#36
dude, dont buy the headers, it's not worth the money. if you ever buy one, get the cattman's header. but it'll cost you about 700 dollars. much money for a little gain. not worth it. for the y-pipe. you are wrong about not buying them. y-pipe is rated by most of us the best performance mod after the intake. it's the bang for the buck mod you get. you need a y-pipe to start anything else with. and that bees-in the can noise, i kept telling you that you want to get it done once, and do it right. don't just go cheap and knock your self in the head later. budget y pipe is a guaranteed worthwhile mod you can have. i am telling you because we owned both warpspeed and budget, and we definitely tell you budget y-pipe is the best to get. both me and my brother got the budget pipes on our car after all.
about the cold air intake noise when you "shift" gear, you are lost about this whole thing. the cai will make noise after driving 3000rpms, and it's a mean growl. it will not make noise switching gear. maybe if you buy one of those fake turbo noise makers and install it in the muffler, you will get such noise, but that's a lame thing to do. i am afraid that you mistake this noise as the hissing noise from the turbo blow off valve. that's the real noise from shifting because there is huge back pressure each time the throttle door is closed.
about the cold air intake noise when you "shift" gear, you are lost about this whole thing. the cai will make noise after driving 3000rpms, and it's a mean growl. it will not make noise switching gear. maybe if you buy one of those fake turbo noise makers and install it in the muffler, you will get such noise, but that's a lame thing to do. i am afraid that you mistake this noise as the hissing noise from the turbo blow off valve. that's the real noise from shifting because there is huge back pressure each time the throttle door is closed.
10-26-2004, 08:04 AM
#37
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
lol, oh well, i got that from a someone, he into cars, and he told me that CAI makes that sound. well anyways, heres' wht im gettin:
fstb: $42 shipped (superblack99)
rsb: $119 (dub)
cai: $50 shipped (cyu1)
y-pipe: $193 shipped
any more suggestions?
fstb: $42 shipped (superblack99)
rsb: $119 (dub)
cai: $50 shipped (cyu1)
y-pipe: $193 shipped
any more suggestions?
10-26-2004, 08:08 AM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 71