Technosquare ECU for 1999 MAXIMA, 99's rejoice
Originally Posted by DAVE Sz
WHAT got into your panties this time? What I said is true. XOPTON said they'd make tons of money when in reality the hundreds of people saying they want the chips would turn into 20 actually paying. Don't you know by now that 90% of maxima a owners are cheapos?
lol yeah thats the trut. allways ***** about spending 595 for a ecu upgraded..
i have no problem spending that much if its going to get me what i need..
ok this has nothing to do with getting a 96 ecu to work in a 99 . all it talks about is the CEL .
Originally Posted by zack342
this information is from a post by eng92
this the thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350138
This may be common knowlege but I did not see it in the stickies.
There are two basic steps involved:
1) On the ECU connector, move the wire from pin 107 to pin 105.
2) Change out your 4-wire zirconia type rear O2 sensor for a 3-wire titania type.
From previous posts I have read, it seems that most people are aware of step 1 but do not carry out step 2.
Please be aware that you cannot sub a 3-wire zirconia type sensor in place of the 3-wire titania. The two types work completely differently.
The zirconia type generates a voltage depending upon O2 levels. The ECU expects to see a fluctuating voltage from 0-1.0 V.
The titania type sensor changes in resistance depending on O2 levels. The ECU measures the voltage drop across this resistance. It expects a voltage fluctuating between 0-2.2V.
If the ECU does not see the specified voltage fluctuation after a given time period, it will throw the P0136 code and give you a CEL.
Some of you may have discovered that the rear O2 sensor bung on a 98 is an 18mm thread while the one on a 96 is 12mm.
There are three options for sensor replacement:
1) Buy a 12mm, 3-wire titania type for a 96 and machine an adapter for it to fit the 18mm threaded bung.
2) Weld a 12 mm bung on your exhaust and use the 96 sensor.
3) Buy an 18mm, 3-wire titania type sensor. Easier said than done. Not used on any North American production cars that I am aware of. NTK Europe makes them but NTK North America does not. All of the 3 wire titania ones over here are 12mm.
I believe I found one through Oxygensensors.com. It is Walker p/n: 250-23881. It is a universal type, so you will have to cut the connector off of your factory sensor.
Don't anybody go out and buy one just yet. Mine should be arriving monday or tuesday. I will follow up after I get it installed to confirm that it does the job.
I know someone is going to ask the question: Will this work on a 99???
Short answer: I do not know.
Long Answer: I know the 99 uses a four-wire 18 mm zirconia type like the 98. The nissan p/ns may be different but that just means the connector or length of wire attached to the sensor is different. You would be replacing it with a universal so that does not matter.
I have FSMs for 96 and 98, not 99. The pin-out on the ECU may be different. If someone wants to supply me with the schematic for the rear O2 sensor circuit, I can let you know.
I apologize for the long post, but since there is a GD for JWT ecus going on right now, I figured this would be useful info for some of us 98s.
this the thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350138
This may be common knowlege but I did not see it in the stickies.
There are two basic steps involved:
1) On the ECU connector, move the wire from pin 107 to pin 105.
2) Change out your 4-wire zirconia type rear O2 sensor for a 3-wire titania type.
From previous posts I have read, it seems that most people are aware of step 1 but do not carry out step 2.
Please be aware that you cannot sub a 3-wire zirconia type sensor in place of the 3-wire titania. The two types work completely differently.
The zirconia type generates a voltage depending upon O2 levels. The ECU expects to see a fluctuating voltage from 0-1.0 V.
The titania type sensor changes in resistance depending on O2 levels. The ECU measures the voltage drop across this resistance. It expects a voltage fluctuating between 0-2.2V.
If the ECU does not see the specified voltage fluctuation after a given time period, it will throw the P0136 code and give you a CEL.
Some of you may have discovered that the rear O2 sensor bung on a 98 is an 18mm thread while the one on a 96 is 12mm.
There are three options for sensor replacement:
1) Buy a 12mm, 3-wire titania type for a 96 and machine an adapter for it to fit the 18mm threaded bung.
2) Weld a 12 mm bung on your exhaust and use the 96 sensor.
3) Buy an 18mm, 3-wire titania type sensor. Easier said than done. Not used on any North American production cars that I am aware of. NTK Europe makes them but NTK North America does not. All of the 3 wire titania ones over here are 12mm.
I believe I found one through Oxygensensors.com. It is Walker p/n: 250-23881. It is a universal type, so you will have to cut the connector off of your factory sensor.
Don't anybody go out and buy one just yet. Mine should be arriving monday or tuesday. I will follow up after I get it installed to confirm that it does the job.
I know someone is going to ask the question: Will this work on a 99???
Short answer: I do not know.
Long Answer: I know the 99 uses a four-wire 18 mm zirconia type like the 98. The nissan p/ns may be different but that just means the connector or length of wire attached to the sensor is different. You would be replacing it with a universal so that does not matter.
I have FSMs for 96 and 98, not 99. The pin-out on the ECU may be different. If someone wants to supply me with the schematic for the rear O2 sensor circuit, I can let you know.
I apologize for the long post, but since there is a GD for JWT ecus going on right now, I figured this would be useful info for some of us 98s.
I have FSMs for 96 & 98. If someone wants to email me a scan of the ECU pinouts from a 99 FSM, I can tell you what the differences are and what you need to do to get it to work.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,226
From: Quincy, MA
i can i have a 99 FSM pm me your e-mail address and i can send them to you tonight. i am not sure you mentioned it or if it is know but are you running a JWT 96 ECU in your 98?
Originally Posted by zack342
i can i have a 99 FSM pm me your e-mail address and i can send them to you tonight. i am not sure you mentioned it or if it is know but are you running a JWT 96 ECU in your 98?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,226
From: Quincy, MA
Originally Posted by eng92
I have been running a stock 96 ECU in my 98 for about 2 weeks now. I want to make sure it runs flawlessly before I send it to JWT.
no i dont have a fsm .. but if someone figures out the pinout i have a 96 ecu so i can swap the pins and try it to see it it will work for the 99s
hey eng92 if you figure it out can you send me what pins to swap..
here is my email
chuckie311@adelphia.net
hey eng92 if you figure it out can you send me what pins to swap..
here is my email
chuckie311@adelphia.net
Originally Posted by zack342
was it hard to alter the harness? Also is your 98 a cali emissions car or is cali emission a 99 only thing? from what i know and this is what you technosquare said, the 98 and 99's have the same ECU's i belive Drewm can confirm this. i recieved my 99 FSM on sunday and i will look at it this afternoon in detail to try to find out as much as i can on the pin outs. the ECU wiring diagrams are in the EL section correct?. are you 5speed
I am 5 speed. I have a Canadian spec maxima. I have not come across anything yet in my 98 FSM that distinguishes between Canada, Fed or Cali spec. In my 96 FSM, the Cali spec ECU uses a fuel pump control module which does not appear in 98.
The only harness modification I have made so far is to move the one wire associated with the rear 02 sensor. I will get my new O2 sensor today or tomorrow which will get rid of that annoying P0136 code.
Originally Posted by chuckie311
no i dont have a fsm .. but if someone figures out the pinout i have a 96 ecu so i can swap the pins and try it to see it it will work for the 99s
hey eng92 if you figure it out can you send me what pins to swap..
here is my email
chuckie311@adelphia.net
hey eng92 if you figure it out can you send me what pins to swap..
here is my email
chuckie311@adelphia.net
I see why your car wouldn't start. The fuel pump relay, park/neutral position switch and crankshaft position sensors are on different pins for a 99. There are some EGR and rear O2 sensor related differences but they would not stop your engine from starting and running.
I will look at it all tonight and make up a small x-ref spreadsheet to show what wires you will need to move on the ecu harness.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,226
From: Quincy, MA
thanks for the info but i have sent the 99' ECU pins outs from my FSM to ENG92 and he is going to look into the option of using a 96 ECU in a 99 maxima. he is running a 96 ECU in his 98 maxima and braian at technosquare told me that the 98 and 99 maxima's have the same ecu's. This maybe a long shot but its one of the last options so hopefully i wil hear from Dave soon with some promising results.
Originally Posted by eng92
Zack342 sent me the ECU pinouts for the 99 last night.
I see why your car wouldn't start. The fuel pump relay, park/neutral position switch and crankshaft position sensors are on different pins for a 99. There are some EGR and rear O2 sensor related differences but they would not stop your engine from starting and running.
I will look at it all tonight and make up a small x-ref spreadsheet to show what wires you will need to move on the ecu harness.
I see why your car wouldn't start. The fuel pump relay, park/neutral position switch and crankshaft position sensors are on different pins for a 99. There are some EGR and rear O2 sensor related differences but they would not stop your engine from starting and running.
I will look at it all tonight and make up a small x-ref spreadsheet to show what wires you will need to move on the ecu harness.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,226
From: Quincy, MA
chuckie if you need the 99 pin outs and stuff i can e-mail them to you since i have them scanned and stuff already. i know you said you have a 96 ECU so i would love if you did get it to work if you could share what you needed to do to make this work. let me know if you need it.i know i asked already and i am not sure if you answered but is your car california emissions?
Dave thanks alot for taking the time to help us 99 guys out. did notice anything diffrent on the 99 ecus from the 96 ecus to account for the extra o2 sensors and stuff that california emission cars have.
Dave thanks alot for taking the time to help us 99 guys out. did notice anything diffrent on the 99 ecus from the 96 ecus to account for the extra o2 sensors and stuff that california emission cars have.
yeah can you please email them to me.
chuckie311@adelphia.net
yeah i would let eveyone know what the outcome it if i got it to work it would be sent out to JWT for a upgrade redline to 7.5k for my mevi. no i have federal emissions
chuckie311@adelphia.net
yeah i would let eveyone know what the outcome it if i got it to work it would be sent out to JWT for a upgrade redline to 7.5k for my mevi. no i have federal emissions
Thanks to all who are exploring the 96 ECU in 97-99s. What TopElement posted sounds like the final blow against there ever being 97-00 ECU modifications. If 96 ECU can be made to work for us with no issues whatsoever, that would be all we hoped for.
Originally Posted by zack342
chuckie if you need the 99 pin outs and stuff i can e-mail them to you since i have them scanned and stuff already. i know you said you have a 96 ECU so i would love if you did get it to work if you could share
This ECU swap will be easier if you guys are 5 speed. There are a lot more connections from the ECU to the Transmission Control Module (TCM) on a 96 than there is on a 99. This means that the actual TCMs are different between the two years.
Zack: Can you email me a pic of the System Diagram? It should be on the page following the circuit diagram.
http://img52.photobucket.com/albums/...BIGD/99%20ECU/
99 ECU pinout and description of each pin. Had this on my site months ago and there was a thread about putting a 96 ecu in a 99 a couple months ago. I'm not sure why this is going in that direction when it was already shown it won't work with just moving pin around.
99 ECU pinout and description of each pin. Had this on my site months ago and there was a thread about putting a 96 ecu in a 99 a couple months ago. I'm not sure why this is going in that direction when it was already shown it won't work with just moving pin around.
So what you are saying is that it is posible for the 96 ecu to work in the 99. If so that would allow the rev limiter to be increased in the 99 using the 96 ecu.. Nobody knows this for sure yet, correct. Soon we will know if it is posible.. What is the cost of JWT changing the rev on an ecu these days?
Originally Posted by chuckie311
hey ENG how hard was it to swap the pins. and how did you do it. just want to make sure i di it right dont want to screw up the connnectors
Steps are:
1. Remove ecu connector by undoing centre bolt.
2. Remove clear plastic wire protector from around ECU wire bundle.
3. Pry the two white locking bars, on the bottom of the connector, up until you hear them click. They only move about 1/32" or so.
4. Each female terminal has two holes looking at it from the terminal side. There is a flat one where the ECU pin goes in DO NOT SHOVE ANYTHING IN THIS HOLE.
Adjacent to that one is a small T-shaped slot. A very small flat-bladed precision screwdriver (or a needle) is then inserted into this slot to press the plastic terminal retaining clip down so the terminal may be removed by pulling very lightly on the wire. It should take almost no force at all to withdrawl the terminal if you are doing it right.
Tips:
1. Have only one loose terminal out at a time.
2. ECU Connector diagrams in the FSM are from the harness side.
3. Remember to press the white locking bars back in when you are done.
4. Make sure the edge of the connector is parallel to the the ECU before starting to tighten the retaining bolt.
yeah would love the pics.has i will being doing this this weekend when there will be enough light for me to see..
chuckie311@adelphia.net
that is my email
thanks eng92
chuckie311@adelphia.net
that is my email
thanks eng92
I figured I would revive this thread and let the interested parties know where we were at.
I have emailed chuckie311 all the information regarding what ECU terminals he needs to move as well as instructions on how to properly remove the terminals from the connector.
After carefully looking through all the pinouts and ECM circuit diagrams for the 96,98 and 99 model years, I see no reason why the engine should not start and run. But lets just get the motor running first.
Of course there will be a whole lot of codes thrown for EVAP, EGR and rear O2 sensor systems. It will require a minimum of atleast some different sensors to get rid of those codes so that you can pass an emissions test .
I do not know the details of what was tried in the past and why it did not work. So please instead of wasting people's time by posting things like "it has been tried before - doesn't work", tell us the exact details of what terminals were moved, which sensors were changed and what codes were thrown.
Good luck chuckie311.
I have emailed chuckie311 all the information regarding what ECU terminals he needs to move as well as instructions on how to properly remove the terminals from the connector.
After carefully looking through all the pinouts and ECM circuit diagrams for the 96,98 and 99 model years, I see no reason why the engine should not start and run. But lets just get the motor running first.
Of course there will be a whole lot of codes thrown for EVAP, EGR and rear O2 sensor systems. It will require a minimum of atleast some different sensors to get rid of those codes so that you can pass an emissions test .
I do not know the details of what was tried in the past and why it did not work. So please instead of wasting people's time by posting things like "it has been tried before - doesn't work", tell us the exact details of what terminals were moved, which sensors were changed and what codes were thrown.
Good luck chuckie311.
Chuckie, do you know if the 96 ecu you have is cali-spec? I know you live in Cali but if you got your ecu from a wrecker, it could have come from anywhere.
I ended up with a cali-spec 96 ecu from a local wrecker up here in Canada.
If it is cali-spec, you will also get the P1220 code for the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) that your 99 doesn't have.
To get rid of the code you will need to add an FPCM and dropping resistor.
I just picked up the pair, for my 98, from a wrecker this morning for $20CDN. They are located in the trunk on the left hand side behind the trim panel inside the rear quarter panel.
I ended up with a cali-spec 96 ecu from a local wrecker up here in Canada.
If it is cali-spec, you will also get the P1220 code for the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) that your 99 doesn't have.
To get rid of the code you will need to add an FPCM and dropping resistor.
I just picked up the pair, for my 98, from a wrecker this morning for $20CDN. They are located in the trunk on the left hand side behind the trim panel inside the rear quarter panel.
Originally Posted by chuckie311
i have a fed spec.. but im not having any luck getting the damn pins out of the ecu harness
Do you have those 2 white locking bars raised up? The hardest part is pulling that little grey plastic locking tab back while you withdraw the terminal from the backside.
Do not give up and do not force anything.
There is a cross sectional picture in the FSM of the connector which I found useful.
Hey Zack. In the GI section at the front of the FSM there is a picture in the section called How to Check Terminals that shows how to probe a female terminal from the terminal side. It is the at bottom of GI-18 in my FSM ('98)
Can you email that to Chuckie?
It is not for an ECU terminal but the principal is still the same. It shows nicely the little locking tab that has to be moved so the terminal can be withdrawn.