First time doing brakes - any advice?
First time doing brakes - any advice?
First time on any vehicle! (Scary innit?)
I've got the Haynes manual, and I've read motorvate's web page about a dozen times - I think I'm ready.
Couple of questions tho - that rear brake tool? Is it easy to get by with a pair of needle nose pliers or should I try and buy one?
Also, are the Duralast rotors worth the extra money? I know a lot here swear by the brembos - but I'm about as poor as they come - I'm not super cheap or anything - I just don't want to be replacing the rotors again for a good long while.
I've got the Haynes manual, and I've read motorvate's web page about a dozen times - I think I'm ready.
Couple of questions tho - that rear brake tool? Is it easy to get by with a pair of needle nose pliers or should I try and buy one?
Also, are the Duralast rotors worth the extra money? I know a lot here swear by the brembos - but I'm about as poor as they come - I'm not super cheap or anything - I just don't want to be replacing the rotors again for a good long while.
Yes, get the brake tool, it will save you tons of time over trying to improvise something that works. And if possible, either have someone handy around or close by, brake jobs and all other car stuff does not always go "by the book". You'll almost always have a little snafu along the way. Oh and by the way, when compressing the calipers, do it very slowly... if you go too fast you'll end up squirting brake fluid through the engine compartment master cylinder and have to clean it up. It won't hurt anything, just make a mess.
I was doing a simple tire rotation once and I couldn't get one of the wheels off because there was ONE lock nut on only one wheel. It wasn't the owners, so we had no key for it. That turned a half an hour job into a 2 hour project. Anyway, good luck.
I was doing a simple tire rotation once and I couldn't get one of the wheels off because there was ONE lock nut on only one wheel. It wasn't the owners, so we had no key for it. That turned a half an hour job into a 2 hour project. Anyway, good luck.
Originally Posted by joew
are you using autozone brake pads? how are they?
Also make sure in the rear that you line up the little nub on the back of the pad with the indent on the caliper so that the surface area contact on the pad/rotor interface area is constant.
And brake fluid is corrosive so try not and get it on anything.
you will definitely need the tool. That part fo the brake job is hardest part, unless my calipers are just trashed? 
make sure u remember to put ebrake down and take car out of first gear when u try to do rear brakes. I made the mistake and suffered. Alot of extra strength used for no reason...

make sure u remember to put ebrake down and take car out of first gear when u try to do rear brakes. I made the mistake and suffered. Alot of extra strength used for no reason...
Originally Posted by meccanoble
you will definitely need the tool. That part fo the brake job is hardest part, unless my calipers are just trashed? 
make sure u remember to put ebrake down and take car out of first gear when u try to do rear brakes. I made the mistake and suffered. Alot of extra strength used for no reason...

make sure u remember to put ebrake down and take car out of first gear when u try to do rear brakes. I made the mistake and suffered. Alot of extra strength used for no reason...
here's a link to help you out:http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
Originally Posted by UncleMax98
Get a torque wrench. Do not over torque the caliper bolts. They break easily.
i just broke mine today doing it
.. i have a post about it. i had to get a replacement from meineke that has a different head size (12mm) and the thread goes slightly farther up on the bolt.gotta hit a dealership or junkyard and get a real one.
I have a question for everyone, my calipers look like complete junk (the piston itself.. i wouldnt say its corroded but it's got crap all around the rubber seal, does the brake hardware kit come with new seals or anything?)
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