meximax

iTrader: (19)

Do any of you know if the oil pan has to be removed in order to remove the timing belt cover?

I have already pulled all the cover screws as well as alternator, power steering pump, motor mount, etc. The top part was easily wedged open, but the bottom area is not budging. The cover does have some "wedges" where a screw driver can be inserted. I already broke a flat head screwdriver tip in the wedge, and the cover refuses to come off.

emmas97

tilley said you have to unbolt the steel pan and there are 2 12mm bolts from the bottom inside the pan. be careful not to mess up the mating surface.

meximax

iTrader: (19)

"from the bottom inside the pan"

Please ask tilley to clarify for assurance. There are two oil pans. The one that connects to the actual engine block (made of aluminum; the one I don't want to remove) and the second one (steel) where the drain plug is located.

Is he referring to the oil plug pan right?

meximax

iTrader: (19)

Hey, never mind, I went back onto my old photo archive from when I pulled down the tranny/oil pan/rear main seal.

I see exactly what bolts he is referring to. By the way, tell tilley I said thanks for the help.

emmas97

youre welcome and its the drainplug one lol in case you still needed to know, which you already figured it out

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

There is a difference between the "oil pan" and the "bottom cover". You have to remove the oil pan to access the two verticle bolts (M8 with 12mm 6 point head) that run through the bottom cover into the front cover.

The front cover also has four pry spots on it so that you dont have to scar up the mating sufaces. Two on the top and two on the bottom.

meximax

iTrader: (19)

I did see the prying points, both and top and on the bottom, but I completely forgot about those two bolts on the bottom. I am sure the cover will fall on its own once I remove those bolts.

TILLEYS99

iTrader: (4)

get er done yet? if it comes off easy i will be amazed everytime i took one off i was waiting for it too snap in half.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

mine actually did snap in half... well the bottom edge snapped off. Time to find a replacement

TILLEYS99

iTrader: (4)

i got a few spares

meximax

iTrader: (19)

It took some time but I get the outer cover off. The inner cover wasn't any easier. Everything is back in and working flawlessly.

TAPOUT

iTrader: (5)

I couldn't believe how much RTV they used from the factory to seal it up.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

What do you guys use to scrape the factory RTV sealant off with without damaging the mating surfaces?

TILLEYS99

iTrader: (4)

I have used a very soft bristle wire brush if its to aggressive it will mess it up.

JoeB

So you guys are saying that the inner and outer timing covers can be removed without disassembling half the motor(valve covers and upper oil pan) like the service manual says. The reason I ask is I have a pretty good oil leak coming from back there and I have been thinking of replacing the engine instead of doing all that work.

TILLEYS99

iTrader: (4)

Good luck doing it its a PITA especially if you need to pull the rear cover.

JoeB

I started pulling my cover off today. Luckily my oil leak appears to be a botched job by the previos owner. Its leaking real bad from a U shaped rubber gasket between the upper oil pan and the front timing cover. About a 1/4" is missing from the end of it and they patched it with silicone that finnally blew out and started leaking real bad. What is easier dropping the upper pan or pulling the front cover off? Also any tricks for getting to the 2 screws that hol the adjuster mechanism for the PS pump. I afraid if I get them out It will be a real ***** to get them back in.

JoeB

Well my car is leak free now. What a PIA that cover is. The job took about 9hrs (including a trip to work to use the parts washer). Now to get my rear struts and RSB installed and I should be set for awile. At least until spring when I get my Y pipe and exhaust