MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve
#8
well be carefull not to spend money on that solenoid that you might not need because when I replaced that it didnt turn the code off so there must be one more part that needs to be replaced. Just letting you know so you dont spend 60 bucks. The knock sensor however isnt hard to replace so dont let the hype fool you. "Swivel sockets are your friend"
#13
though my 2 hoses are hooked up right and iv already replaced that solenoid with the 2 hoses and its still throwing that dam code so the only other thing that chart mentions is the egrc solenoid valve and the evap canister purge control solenoid valve. I wonder if either of the two need to be replaced.
#14
You know the dealership will be able to print the diagrams out for you from the FSM for free..
Y dont you just do that?
check out what they are, where they are, and check out prices... the the cheaper one first
i remember i snapped the MAP/BARO switch replacing the vacume lines. THE ONE OF FIEW vacume solenoids that is made of plastic and my dumb a$$ broke it lol...cost me almost 100 bucks from my dealer to get it fixed since i couldnt order online (i needed it that day and they had it in stock)
Y dont you just do that?
check out what they are, where they are, and check out prices... the the cheaper one first
i remember i snapped the MAP/BARO switch replacing the vacume lines. THE ONE OF FIEW vacume solenoids that is made of plastic and my dumb a$$ broke it lol...cost me almost 100 bucks from my dealer to get it fixed since i couldnt order online (i needed it that day and they had it in stock)
#16
1302 and 0803
I have both of these code show up 1302 and 0803.. i just wonder if it will decrease the performance of the car and will it damage the car in long run?
what part exactly do i need to purchase to get it replace and fix the problem??
where is a good place online to get nissan parts?
thanks!!
what part exactly do i need to purchase to get it replace and fix the problem??
where is a good place online to get nissan parts?
thanks!!
#21
map/baro and knock sensor relationship
Is there any relationship between the MAP/Baro Switch Solenoid Valve and the Knock Sensor?
I also got the 03-04 and 13-02 codes together. This had happened to me before, I reset the codes and they went away for a month or two, now they are back.
What should I look for?
I also got the 03-04 and 13-02 codes together. This had happened to me before, I reset the codes and they went away for a month or two, now they are back.
What should I look for?
#22
Is there any relationship between the MAP/Baro Switch Solenoid Valve and the Knock Sensor?
I also got the 03-04 and 13-02 codes together. This had happened to me before, I reset the codes and they went away for a month or two, now they are back.
What should I look for?
not sure but i have a 0304 and 0806(which is evap canister purge control valve/solenoid valve) so maybe there is a connection
I also got the 03-04 and 13-02 codes together. This had happened to me before, I reset the codes and they went away for a month or two, now they are back.
What should I look for?
not sure but i have a 0304 and 0806(which is evap canister purge control valve/solenoid valve) so maybe there is a connection
#23
MAP/Baro solenoid look the same as the EGRC solenoid?
Does the MAP/Baro solenoid look the same as the EGRC solenoid? I have code 1005 EGRC solenoid. I'm using the manual that's been posted as a PDF a32-ec.pdf, section EC pg EC-350 and the solenoid looks exactly like what this thread has identified as the MAP solenoid. The part I'm looking at on the car is mounted vertically on a small plate next to another maybe solenoid with the 2 hoses on the top. The electrical connection is brown, I've seen posted that the EGRC solenoid connection is green. If that's the MAP solenoid, where do I look for the EGRC solenoid? Anyhow, do they look the same? Thanks.
#30
Well since this isn't a thread that is largely ignored I finally went to a mechanic. I don't have the diagnostic tools/multimeters and all that, and I didn't want to spend money I didn't need to. I had the code P1105, or 1302, same thing, autozone will tell you P1105, I called the nissan dealership and they said there was two, I went to my mechanic and he said it was only the one sensor. I don't know what the dealership was talking about then, maybe they included the solenoid as one of the parts?? My mechanic took me out there and showed my what the sensor was that was bad and threw the code. It was the sensor on the ram air labled "boost". I got this replaced and the computer reset and it hasn't come back on. Its finally fixed. As far as I can tell this part has nothing to do with MPG, I still returned an average of 23 mpg mixed. All I noticed was that the car shifts more smoothly (sp?) and accelerates a little better. But that could have been because my brakes were sticking. I hope this helps anyone who has this problem, but it doesn't look too common....
#32
I got the same code. P1105
Will try changing the Air Filter (long overdue), checking all the hoses on it and those two from the pictorials on previous page - that people had swapped....
Other then that, don't know what else to do.
Will try changing the Air Filter (long overdue), checking all the hoses on it and those two from the pictorials on previous page - that people had swapped....
Other then that, don't know what else to do.
#34
Hey Maxihari:
I called you and sent you a pm about the P1105 code and the KS replacement this a.m. First of all, have you tested the switch yet to see if you are getting juice to it? It could be a broken wire connection or just dirty plug connector.
As stated above, the 1105 code could be the result of several things, not just the switch itself. It could be a cracked or clogged hose. Loose connection somewhere on the air intake tube, etc. If you want to remove that switch, clean it and test it, we can try that Saturday before you go and spend needless money on a new one. There are also plenty if members on here who will sell you one off a parts car for cheap too. Let me know what you want to do with that regard. Your car may need a tune up as well and vacuum hose inspection to make sure everything is hooked up right. I will also bring my car and we can have an actual vehicle to refer back to to make sure everything is where it should be. Then we could clean the MAF, TB and IAC to make it run better.
Let's replace the KS first and get rid of one code at a time, k?
Ted
I called you and sent you a pm about the P1105 code and the KS replacement this a.m. First of all, have you tested the switch yet to see if you are getting juice to it? It could be a broken wire connection or just dirty plug connector.
As stated above, the 1105 code could be the result of several things, not just the switch itself. It could be a cracked or clogged hose. Loose connection somewhere on the air intake tube, etc. If you want to remove that switch, clean it and test it, we can try that Saturday before you go and spend needless money on a new one. There are also plenty if members on here who will sell you one off a parts car for cheap too. Let me know what you want to do with that regard. Your car may need a tune up as well and vacuum hose inspection to make sure everything is hooked up right. I will also bring my car and we can have an actual vehicle to refer back to to make sure everything is where it should be. Then we could clean the MAF, TB and IAC to make it run better.
Let's replace the KS first and get rid of one code at a time, k?
Ted
#36
Originally Posted by Ezekiel 25:17
still havnt figured out what the 1302 part is to get the check engine light off. Any help please. Inspection is overdue.
#37
Well since this isn't a thread that is largely ignored I finally went to a mechanic. I don't have the diagnostic tools/multimeters and all that, and I didn't want to spend money I didn't need to. I had the code P1105, or 1302, same thing, autozone will tell you P1105, I called the nissan dealership and they said there was two, I went to my mechanic and he said it was only the one sensor. I don't know what the dealership was talking about then, maybe they included the solenoid as one of the parts?? My mechanic took me out there and showed my what the sensor was that was bad and threw the code. It was the sensor on the ram air labled "boost". I got this replaced and the computer reset and it hasn't come back on. Its finally fixed. As far as I can tell this part has nothing to do with MPG, I still returned an average of 23 mpg mixed. All I noticed was that the car shifts more smoothly (sp?) and accelerates a little better. But that could have been because my brakes were sticking. I hope this helps anyone who has this problem, but it doesn't look too common....
#38
Im buying a maxima with the P1105 code, and the pictures above arent working for me. Can somebody repost them so I can see where to look, because I dont even know where to start!
Thanks
Thanks
#39
DAVE Sz ~ Need some help with photos of vacuum line swap
I know this is an old thread, but it looks like I have a similar condition. DAVE Sz do you still have the photos showing the vacuum line swap which causes a MAP/BARO SW Soleniod/Valve code? (13 long blinks & 2 short blinks) I just had several things done including valve cover gasket replacement which, of course, means that everything comes off the top of the motor and gets disconnected. Something may have been incorrectly reattached.
Anyone else is welcome to chime in ---- help appreciated.
Anyone else is welcome to chime in ---- help appreciated.