jdm71488

Alright, thanks to Dave and some others, I have a pretty good understanding of whats involved, what to buy, and how to do it...

I have some questions though, one being, what is this black box in the following pic:



Also, I wonder why you can't, instead of connecting the reloaction positive cable to the original one, connect it to where the original one goes?

And for the original negative, this has to be grounded? Couldn't I just run one from relocation spot to where the original negative goes?

Thanks for you help...

PTownMax

iTrader: (5)

summit has a kit for like 50$ including instructions on how to do it, IMO the best bang for the buck and mental strain...

jdm71488

yeah thats what i was gonna get the taylor kit...

but i want to know why i have to connect the positive cable to the stock one... and why i cant just replace it...

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Well, the positive cable goes to a few places. Look at it and you'll see like 4 or 5 different cables going to the fuse box or the starter or to some other place.

jdm71488

yeah, im going to do this, but im gonna hide a disconnect switch...

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bi...l?man=Longacre

third one down, should look like this:



175 Amp Continuous Rating, 6-36 Volt, 1000 Peak.
it says 4 terminal???, will this work?

to install it, it intercepts the positive cable right?

T40e 60-1

Thats what i did, seems to be running fine ...

jdm71488

what do you mean? you completely took out the original positive cable?

jdm71488

ttt... i want to do this soon, but still have some un-answered questions...

does the disconnect switch intercepts the positive cable? so i can put it in anywhere just cut the cable and hook it to the switch...

is the specs on that switch sufficient?

i dont need a fuse or something to relocate a battery? i read other tutorials and they said something about fuses... ?

and to hook up an amp, does another cable have to be ran from the battery? if so, i wont get a box, ill just get a mount...

please help!

T40e 60-1

No, I connected the positive from the battery's 2 gauge to the positive that was originally in the engine bay.

T40e 60-1

Same with the ground just to be safe.

jdm71488

so you just extended your stock cables pretty much... sounds easy enough...

ill connect extend the positive to the trunk, and completely replace the ground... hows that?

NightRider

iTrader: (6)

I used a 4-guage audio cable run from my engine bay to the trunk. On the engine bay side, I fabricated a mount and used a jumper terminal to connect the original harness. On the other side of the terminal, I connected the audio cable to the underside using a 4-guage spade connector and a nut. On the battery side, I used a marine style clamp on terminal to connect it to the battery. For the negative side I used 1-guage battery cable that I bought from Advance Auto Parts. One end clamps on to the battery and the other is connected to a bumper support bolt underneath the passenger side taillight. The battery sits in a box from Advance as well.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Sorry nightrider but 4 gauge is way too small.

The black box is the ciruit breaker. It needs to be within 18" of the battery. If you do not use a sealed battery you need a battery box thats vented outside the car. To be race legal you need the battery secured to the chassis and if im not mistaken a battery kill switch.

jdm71488

ok... from what i got, here are my plans, because i have some alterations i want to make so a kit just wont cut it...

all cables 2g...

battery -> circuit breaker -> disconnect switch -> original + cable...

is the original ground still needed?

should i:

1) connect the original ground with the new cable?

2) ground new cable to trunk, and take out original ground?

3) ground new cable to trunk, and ground original to engine bay somewhere?

jdm71488

i spoke to a guy from O'Reily Auto Parts today... i asked him about the circuit breaker, and he said i wouldn't need one unless i use it for my system or whatever...

so will i need a CB for the battery -> starter?

i will put one on the battery -> amp...

does anyone make a multi-terminal CB? like a surge protector? i could get one and hook a battery to it, and have it branch to the starter and the amp...

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Why would you need a circuit breaker? All you are doing is extending the power cable nothing else needs to be added. I took the original battery ground and ran it to the alternator ground. The original positive I "spliced" into the new cable. You on't need any gadgets or useless **** like that, not in my case at least. You might want a distribution block but that's just more money to spend.

jdm71488

thanks for your help... i wasnt sure and the last thing i want to do conjure up some wiring for my car hand have it blow up...

i know what to do with the positive, but im still undecided on the original ground...

its pretty much useless with no power to it right, or do i neeed it? can i can take it off and ground the new - to the trunk somewhere?

jdm71488

ttt... last question:

ground to original spot replacing stock cable - or - ground to trunk and take off original cable?

someone told me to re-ground the original cable and to ground the battery n the trunk but the stock ground cable is pretty useless now isnt it?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

You need the ciruit breaker. If the power wire shorts then you could blow the battery and cause other electrical damage. The stock cable goes straight to the starter, is so short, and is well protected so it wont need one. The 2 other + wires go directly to the fuse box with a dedicated fuse. If your new wire gets a short between the old cable and battery the new ciruit breaker will trip.

The stock ground goes to the chassis and engine. I would at least keep the chasis to engine ground. Cut the other end that used to go to the battery if you really want to. So go with 3) ground new cable to trunk, and ground original to engine bay somewhere.

jdm71488

ugh... so confusing... i want to do it right though and im willing to wait to prevent any damage or injuries...

hows this?

battery(in trunk) -> disconnect swith (in armrest) -> circuit breaker(in engine bay) -> stock cable

ground battery in trunk, and re-ground stock grounds...

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

the ciruit breaker should be placed within 18" of the battery. I dont think you will need the disconnect switch for daily use.

jdm71488

i was going to hide one in the armrest just because

if the CB is between 18" of the battery, i dont understand where you say the short could happen? on the connection between the stock and new positive cables?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

a short is anywhere the positive cable touches ground.....Which could happen at any part of the new wire. Say you put the circuit break in the engine bay, and you got a short somewhere between the CB and battery. Then what protects the battery? nothing, becuase the circuit breaker is after the short, letting the battery touch ground until a fire starts..

jdm71488

thanks a lot jon, dave, and all the others who contributed...

SPiG

iTrader: (7)

About how many amps would we need on the circuit breaker? Where could I buy a good one?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

check your local aout parts stores, audio stores, or places that install plows and lift gates on trucks have them, im not sure what you need for amprage but they go up high.

example:
http://www.cardomain.com/shoplist~b~...rcuit+Breakers Im guessing the 200 apm is whats needed.....better look into it. Do not get a thermal or auto reset breaker. Buy only a manual reset like the ones shown in the link.


i should also mention fuses. you could also use an inline fuse for the same purpose, but they of course are a one time use only. If it blows and you have no spare youre SOL. They are also safer on your electronics because they react faster.