Newbie question - 1st mod
#1
Newbie question - 1st mod
Newbie here, just picked up a '97 SE to replace a '90 3rd gen (which replaced an '87 2nd gen ). Have about $500 free to spend, what should be my first mod(s):
- ECU
- Intake
- Y-pipe
- Hi-flow cat
- B-pipe
- Muffler
- Clear lenses
- Replacement of Bose speaks?
From what I read, the Y-pipe is the most popular, but I do not know approx prices or places to get. I am wary of the $50 Y-pipes I see on Ebay.
Any suggestions, let me know. I am not a racer, but I appreciate a fast car that can handle and I am a 3-generation Max owner. Thanks all!
D
- ECU
- Intake
- Y-pipe
- Hi-flow cat
- B-pipe
- Muffler
- Clear lenses
- Replacement of Bose speaks?
From what I read, the Y-pipe is the most popular, but I do not know approx prices or places to get. I am wary of the $50 Y-pipes I see on Ebay.
Any suggestions, let me know. I am not a racer, but I appreciate a fast car that can handle and I am a 3-generation Max owner. Thanks all!
D
#2
I would get a SS (Stainless Steel) Y-pipe and an intake. Probably run you close to $300. Then I'd get a FSTB and start saving for a new suspension.
Also check out the 4th gen forum and read the FAQ's
Also check out the 4th gen forum and read the FAQ's
#5
Well... you definatly should start off simple since your a newbie... Id suggest since your not a "racer" is an Intake... for starters a popcharger which is a cone filter with a velocity stack thats attached to your stock MAF... Thats around the lower 100's
Then a strut tower brace which helps with handlin' they are around 50 for entry level upto almost 200 for big name brands like Stillen or cattman...
Then for looks you could change those orange blinkers for some Diamond-cut clear turn signals for your front bumpers for about 50 and If you have extra $$$ you should look into the Red and clear Tail lights... for about 150
Y-pipe is a great HP mod but start small than go here because its the best bang for the buck... They go for about 200 depending on material and quality...
P.S. any Y-pipe for $50 is made of aluminum foil... And its not Reynols Wrap its NO-FRILLS Brand...LOL
Any other questions look here... MaxMods
Good Luck
Then a strut tower brace which helps with handlin' they are around 50 for entry level upto almost 200 for big name brands like Stillen or cattman...
Then for looks you could change those orange blinkers for some Diamond-cut clear turn signals for your front bumpers for about 50 and If you have extra $$$ you should look into the Red and clear Tail lights... for about 150
Y-pipe is a great HP mod but start small than go here because its the best bang for the buck... They go for about 200 depending on material and quality...
P.S. any Y-pipe for $50 is made of aluminum foil... And its not Reynols Wrap its NO-FRILLS Brand...LOL
Any other questions look here... MaxMods
Good Luck
#6
Personally i would go for looks before i would go performance. Look into a body kit or new wheels [if you don't have the 5 spoke]. I would def save a couple more $$ and do the body kit but that;s just MO
#8
Thanks all...
I was thinking about the clear corners and painting my calibers (I have the 5 spokers), don't want to drop the car as my wife and kids ride in it too.
I think I will pursue the front strut brace. Does the SE have a rear sway bar as standard, or is that something to consider? The beam axle in the 4 gen was talked up to improve this over 3 gen setup, but I do not know if that was marketing hype to cover a more inexpensive setup?
What will a new intake provide me in terms of response, gain?
D
I think I will pursue the front strut brace. Does the SE have a rear sway bar as standard, or is that something to consider? The beam axle in the 4 gen was talked up to improve this over 3 gen setup, but I do not know if that was marketing hype to cover a more inexpensive setup?
What will a new intake provide me in terms of response, gain?
D
#10
I'd go Y pipe from the cheapest place. Since you are from Portland, Or, you don't really need that much corrosion protection. Then I definately go rear sway bar.
Try to get a cheap cold air intake with what's left. ie.. ebay
Then the next thing would be Tokico AGX shocks and eibach or similar springs. Probably the best/most cost effective suspension mod. You can go coilovers but the prices go way up on those.
Try to get a cheap cold air intake with what's left. ie.. ebay
Then the next thing would be Tokico AGX shocks and eibach or similar springs. Probably the best/most cost effective suspension mod. You can go coilovers but the prices go way up on those.
#12
if you can do the ecu upgrade during a group deal if they even have those anymore at technosquare i would keep that in high priority, if not, then the ypipe is a no brainer. there are some cheap rims out on the market that are lighter than stock and because of that will make your max faster ( see rota subzero - around 500 shipped for 16's )
another thing to consider is general maintance first before mods. what kinda condition are the plugs, etc in. at any rate enjoy the new max
another thing to consider is general maintance first before mods. what kinda condition are the plugs, etc in. at any rate enjoy the new max
#14
I'd definitely go ECU. Get it now while it's $400 and while you actually have the money (get your rev limit raised just in case you ever decide to get a MEVI or 00VI), and a front strut tower bar. Then save for suspension.
#15
Great Advise!!!
Originally Posted by Conrad283
I would get a SS (Stainless Steel) Y-pipe and an intake. Probably run you close to $300. Then I'd get a FSTB and start saving for a new suspension.
Also check out the 4th gen forum and read the FAQ's
Also check out the 4th gen forum and read the FAQ's
This is the way to go.... And another thing there is NO dif Between the e-bay CAI for 50.00 bucks and the other ones youwould pay over 150 for .... I learned the hard way. Check out this web page for sone great values...
http://www.procarparts.com/store-mod...=146&year=1995
All the best..
Kool
#16
Lots of good advice here.
I Definatly agree with Ceasar. Before modding inspect you current parts. That will help determine what to do first. Inspect your axle boots, check you struts/shocks to see if they are leaking.
If you have no issues and all looks well consider the ECU. Its at a good price right now and is a good upgrade and the gains are noticed all around.
If not, the Y pipe and a cheap pop charger intake is a very good start.
That will definatly give you some pep in your everyday driving.
Suspension I would work on after the easy performance bolt ons.
Springs/struts/wheels&tires/rsb/fstb etc...
I Definatly agree with Ceasar. Before modding inspect you current parts. That will help determine what to do first. Inspect your axle boots, check you struts/shocks to see if they are leaking.
If you have no issues and all looks well consider the ECU. Its at a good price right now and is a good upgrade and the gains are noticed all around.
If not, the Y pipe and a cheap pop charger intake is a very good start.
That will definatly give you some pep in your everyday driving.
Suspension I would work on after the easy performance bolt ons.
Springs/struts/wheels&tires/rsb/fstb etc...
#17
u can buy:
ebay cai - 60
ebay FSTB- 20
ebay stillen knock off sway bar - 130
ws y pipe -170
custom b pipe - 120
good balance of preformance/handling
or lower your car
suspension/handling is max's weekest point,
cheap ebay stuff is not bad at all
ebay cai - 60
ebay FSTB- 20
ebay stillen knock off sway bar - 130
ws y pipe -170
custom b pipe - 120
good balance of preformance/handling
or lower your car
suspension/handling is max's weekest point,
cheap ebay stuff is not bad at all
#18
You're not really a racer, maybe just a heavy foot, like me.
I think you should get...
1. Rear Sway Bar (without question)
2. eBay intake
3. FSTB
4. Y-pipe
5. Diamond cut clear corners
This link may help you out too.
http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaPerformance
I think you should get...
1. Rear Sway Bar (without question)
2. eBay intake
3. FSTB
4. Y-pipe
5. Diamond cut clear corners
This link may help you out too.
http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaPerformance
#19
High flow cat is a complete waste of money.
1. Budget Y is about $192 USD shipped. If you don't want stainless get Warpspeed for $160.
2. eBay CAI
3. Red/clear tails and clear corners (or just tint your stock orange corners with VHT Nighshades paint).
1. Budget Y is about $192 USD shipped. If you don't want stainless get Warpspeed for $160.
2. eBay CAI
3. Red/clear tails and clear corners (or just tint your stock orange corners with VHT Nighshades paint).
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Then the next thing would be Tokico AGX shocks
#20
Originally Posted by VQuick
High flow cat is a complete waste of money.
1. Budget Y is about $192 USD shipped. If you don't want stainless get Warpspeed for $160.
2. eBay CAI
3. Red/clear tails and clear corners (or just tint your stock orange corners with VHT Nighshades paint).
1. Budget Y is about $192 USD shipped. If you don't want stainless get Warpspeed for $160.
2. eBay CAI
3. Red/clear tails and clear corners (or just tint your stock orange corners with VHT Nighshades paint).
He was refering to an adjustable unit.
My Budget was right around 160.00 but that was a while back.
#21
You can improve the suspension without lowering. Tokico Illumina struts + shocks on stock SE springs would make a world of difference, $410-440 for the parts, you can install yourself if you want.
Good tires on your stock 5-spoke SE wheels can transform the car. You don't need 17-inch or larger wheels, people do that mainly for the looks.
I can't understand people wanting to improve engine power without improving the stock boat-like suspension. "Right full rudder, full speed ahead, aye, aye, Captain."
Good tires on your stock 5-spoke SE wheels can transform the car. You don't need 17-inch or larger wheels, people do that mainly for the looks.
I can't understand people wanting to improve engine power without improving the stock boat-like suspension. "Right full rudder, full speed ahead, aye, aye, Captain."
#22
I agree with most of whats been said here but,I dont think you should get a Rear Sway Bar right now ,because you said your wife will drive this car from time to time ,why? because I think most ppl here will tell you in the rain you really need to know what you are doing ,it is REALLY easy to put the car into a spin in the rain with a Rear Sway Bar.
#23
Originally Posted by MilesA
I can't understand people wanting to improve engine power without improving the stock boat-like suspension. "Right full rudder, full speed ahead, aye, aye, Captain."
If you looking to hang every corner in your everyday driving at the highest speed possible suspension would be a must.
#25
Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
i say get some sprints off ebay and save alittle and get some gr-2 or agx's or better depending on how much you wanna spend.
You can get new springs and struts for $500 if you look around...
You can get new springs and struts for $500 if you look around...
Sprints will more then likely kill Gr2's
#29
*** Y-PIPE for sure!!***
I bought 2 of these Stone Racing pipes. 304StainlessSteel /mandrel bent. I'll accept offers to my mailbox through the weekend. PayPal only. Pipe will be drop shipped next week from supplier, with tracking number.
" Would'nt that look great under the tree!
I bought 2 of these Stone Racing pipes. 304StainlessSteel /mandrel bent. I'll accept offers to my mailbox through the weekend. PayPal only. Pipe will be drop shipped next week from supplier, with tracking number.
" Would'nt that look great under the tree!
#30
Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
sprints will kill everything won;t they? that is why i am a H&R's
Sprints should be paired with an adjustable shock. Ive had mine with Kyb Agx's for over 2yrs with no problems.
#31
kyb gr2........ 200 off ebay
springs........ about 100 again check ebay
WSP Ypipe.... 160
shipping........ the last 40$ you have left over will help
go performance first, out-run most other V6's and some V8's- teach them VQ respect... the slightly lower "stock appearing" max will look fine(4 door sleeper) and simple external body mods are fairy inexpensive via ebay, save the body kits.
springs........ about 100 again check ebay
WSP Ypipe.... 160
shipping........ the last 40$ you have left over will help
go performance first, out-run most other V6's and some V8's- teach them VQ respect... the slightly lower "stock appearing" max will look fine(4 door sleeper) and simple external body mods are fairy inexpensive via ebay, save the body kits.
#32
With your $500 i would first look into tuning up the car. I am assuming you are intending to keep the car for a while.
None-the-less a good tune-up will run your car to peak performance. Change what you can in the exhaust category. The freer the exhaust gases flow the better the engine breathes. Suspension upgrade would be a good step.
None-the-less a good tune-up will run your car to peak performance. Change what you can in the exhaust category. The freer the exhaust gases flow the better the engine breathes. Suspension upgrade would be a good step.
#33
Conclusion
First of all, thanks all. I have concluded getting the following:
- FTSB
- WSP or Budget Y-pipe
- Flowmaster muffler (not sure what model). Lowest note is best, don't like the Civic sound, especially with the VQ engine.
- Hi-flow intake (have not researched brands yet)
- B-pipe if there is money remaining
- Clear corners and tails if they are not too much $$$
Questions:
- What flowmaster gives me a low, V6 type growl? 80?
- Does a hi-flow cat do anything significant?
- Headers, don't get any clear yea or nea on these?
Thanks again for all the advice, eventual goal is to have a sleeper 4-door that is quick off the line and handles well. Seems to me that my 3-gen handled best, 2-gen SE second, then this car.
First addition is the Maxima.org white sticker below my Oregon Duck white 'O' on the back window....D
- FTSB
- WSP or Budget Y-pipe
- Flowmaster muffler (not sure what model). Lowest note is best, don't like the Civic sound, especially with the VQ engine.
- Hi-flow intake (have not researched brands yet)
- B-pipe if there is money remaining
- Clear corners and tails if they are not too much $$$
Questions:
- What flowmaster gives me a low, V6 type growl? 80?
- Does a hi-flow cat do anything significant?
- Headers, don't get any clear yea or nea on these?
Thanks again for all the advice, eventual goal is to have a sleeper 4-door that is quick off the line and handles well. Seems to me that my 3-gen handled best, 2-gen SE second, then this car.
First addition is the Maxima.org white sticker below my Oregon Duck white 'O' on the back window....D
#36
- FTSB- don't do squat. Buy it later if you wish
- WSP or Budget Y-pipe definately
- Flowmaster muffler (not sure what model). Lowest note is best, don't like the Civic sound, especially with the VQ engine. mufflers don't do squat. Do a cat back later
- Hi-flow intake (have not researched brands yet) later but do the Y first
- B-pipe if there is money remaining naw
- Clear corners and tails if they are not too much $$$ screw that rice stuff
Dude. Do the RSB. The Y and RSB are by far the two biggest bang for the buck.
- WSP or Budget Y-pipe definately
- Flowmaster muffler (not sure what model). Lowest note is best, don't like the Civic sound, especially with the VQ engine. mufflers don't do squat. Do a cat back later
- Hi-flow intake (have not researched brands yet) later but do the Y first
- B-pipe if there is money remaining naw
- Clear corners and tails if they are not too much $$$ screw that rice stuff
Dude. Do the RSB. The Y and RSB are by far the two biggest bang for the buck.
#37
Nice to see someone else from Portland. Get the FSTB, and get the RSB... that one guys who said it made if difficult to handle in the rain is from Texas. I've had an RSB on my car here in Portland I know lots of people in the area who have them on 4th gens. It's gonna make the back end behave a lot better when cornering. Y/intake is a must.
#38
Dooley
It all depends on what you want. like if you want confort go with the nice system. if you want performance go with the y pipe, if you want exterior or the looks go with the drop or red and clears. It all depends on what you want
It all depends on what you want. like if you want confort go with the nice system. if you want performance go with the y pipe, if you want exterior or the looks go with the drop or red and clears. It all depends on what you want
#39
Keep in mind that when you put in an aftermarket Y-pipe, you will be eliminating two or three precats and freeing up exhaust flow. You will notice a significant difference in your exhaust note with just a Y. It will be deeper and more dirty/growly sounding but still relatively quiet if you have the stock catback.
#40
Headers are expensive to install being that It take about 4 hours... and the HP gain isnt worth it... Im guessing about 5 HP... Do the Mods right the first time... First the Y-Pipe then get enough $$$ together to do the remaining exhaust together... FSTB and Rear Sway Bar Are great additions to the boat... If extra $$ get the Clear blinkers and tails = all around mods (performanceHP/suspension/style)
Remember you need install money If your too nervous about using a wrench...
so budget that $$$ into it aswell...
Remember you need install money If your too nervous about using a wrench...
so budget that $$$ into it aswell...