I'm going either a S/C or Turbo route by summer and to play it safe I want to swap my motor its got about 130K miles on it. What can I expect to pay and what should I look out for?

 

why not just get your current motor rebuilt?

 

this maybe a good thread to post in the SC/turbo forum, so those who may have been in your same situation could give you good advice.

I'd get a compression check fist and if everything read well, then I wouldnt replace the motor, just get a rebuilt like BrentK7 suggested, get seal changed, gaskets, etc.

 

Im in the same boat as HarrisH, I want to mod, but I just hit 135k the other day. I dont mean to hijack this thread, but would someone mind explaining differences between a rebuild and just swaping in a lower milage motor, pros and cons? Another thing that I've been wondering, where can you get a compression test done?

 

If your vehicle has been serviced consistently on time you should be fine to mod. An engine with 100k miles might be in better condition than one with 30k miles depending on how they have been used and serviced. I forget the exact terminology, but, I think you need to chech your compression ratios(if I am not mistakin)

 

well VQ's are so cheap...a rebuild would cost a lot more....swapping in a low mileage VQ is more cost effective...but I would compression test your engine b4 replacing it....if it checks out fine, then there is no reason to replace it....

the trannies are the weakest link in our cars, replace that if anything b4 you boost...

remember, with a rebuild, all the components that are no replaced (and there a ton of components that are not replaced), still have the same mileage on them...whereas a low mileage VQ, all the internals are of XX,XXX miles....

 

You will probably pay about $800-$1000 for a VQ for <30k miles. However most of the blocks will be the VQ30DEK out of the 5th Gen Maxima, since the 4th Gen is quite old you won't find a block with low mileage.
-Cyrus

 

compression and check for leaks.. also timing chain for slack... things of that nature

 

Don't get a comp check done. Do one yourself. If your going to be modding you'll need a to do checks in the future anyway so its worth the $35.

 

what? there are ton of VQ 4th gen engines with very low mileage...on www.car-part.com

most are from japan....it has to do with the super stricht emmission standards over there....and you can get them way cheaper than 800-1000 dollars!!! a lot of guys on here have bought an engine and had it installed for around $1000...and half of that is labor if not more...

 

I looked up our motors in my homestate: Virginia. VQ30DEKs were cheaper with comparable mileage than VQ30DEs. In fact some of the <10k mile VQ30DEs were $3000. And most of the 30k mile motors are $1000. Most people on this board pick up engines with higher mileage - 60k or so, just to keep their cars running. However you were right, there seems to be plenty of both.

-Cyrus

 

Well I did do a compression I had 183PSI in all cylinders... but I just want to play it safe, on the note I am bulletproofing the tranny (Level 10)...

 

183 accross the board is consistent and good...keep that engine and just get an EGT gauge....and you should be fine S/C'ed!

 

what did you purchase to do the compression check yourself. I want to test my cylinders make sure all is well, cause I feel as though some power is lost.

thanks

 

Go into your local parts store and pick up a checker. There are several levels. I got the mid level seeing as the features didn't make the $70 any better IMO. I'd say its important to get one with the ability to check all types of engines. I use mine to check everything from my boat to Max to lawnmower.

 

I agree, 183 is excellent. You shouldn't have too many problems with boost on your current motor. Replace the timing chain if you haven't already, check for leaks etc., and if all checks out you should be set.
-Cyrus

 

timing chain is good for life...if anything, change the tensioner and slack guide if possible...that should tighten that thing up nicely...