TPS sensor
TPS sensor
does anyone know for sure the charteristics of a out of wack tps sensor?
i've been having this proplem for a little while now. with the sensor connected my car will not rev pass about 2k rps. now if i disconnet the brown clip from the sensor it with rev freely but the idle is at 1500 rps. if i reconnect it, it will go back down to about 600, 650 rpms (manual trans).i have checked all the codes with a snap on computer scanner and the only code at the time that i got was a o2 sensor that i have replaced.
if anyone has any tips or any other test i might be able to do let me know
or anyone with a manual trans what kind of readings do you get on your tps sensor witha ohm meter?
i've been having this proplem for a little while now. with the sensor connected my car will not rev pass about 2k rps. now if i disconnet the brown clip from the sensor it with rev freely but the idle is at 1500 rps. if i reconnect it, it will go back down to about 600, 650 rpms (manual trans).i have checked all the codes with a snap on computer scanner and the only code at the time that i got was a o2 sensor that i have replaced.
if anyone has any tips or any other test i might be able to do let me know
or anyone with a manual trans what kind of readings do you get on your tps sensor witha ohm meter?
i had exact same issue and thought it was my ecu cause after playing wit wires and resetting ecu my car would drive wit no problems for a few minutes that continue the BS 2k rev limiter problem. My idle was also high as sh*t cause of a bad TPS. You have to either adjust it or replace it. The black part where those two sensors plug in, you can move it up and down once u loosen the bolts that keep it attached to the throttle body. there are detailed instructions of how to do this. You'll also need a voltmeter to determine the proper adjustment needed.
although my problem is fixed, mine still needs a slight adjustment cause during cold weathers, my idle is high and sticks a little longer than usual. Same when i put the heat of AC on. but i stripped one of the dam bolts holding TPS to throttle body
. If you have an SAFC, it will handle the voltage reading for u, otherwise get an ohmeter/multimeter/voltmeter whatever.
although my problem is fixed, mine still needs a slight adjustment cause during cold weathers, my idle is high and sticks a little longer than usual. Same when i put the heat of AC on. but i stripped one of the dam bolts holding TPS to throttle body
. If you have an SAFC, it will handle the voltage reading for u, otherwise get an ohmeter/multimeter/voltmeter whatever.
Originally Posted by JDM_Maxima
does anyone know for sure the charteristics of a out of wack tps sensor?
i've been having this proplem for a little while now. with the sensor connected my car will not rev pass about 2k rps. now if i disconnet the brown clip from the sensor it with rev freely but the idle is at 1500 rps. if i reconnect it, it will go back down to about 600, 650 rpms (manual trans).i have checked all the codes with a snap on computer scanner and the only code at the time that i got was a o2 sensor that i have replaced.
if anyone has any tips or any other test i might be able to do let me know
or anyone with a manual trans what kind of readings do you get on your tps sensor witha ohm meter?
i've been having this proplem for a little while now. with the sensor connected my car will not rev pass about 2k rps. now if i disconnet the brown clip from the sensor it with rev freely but the idle is at 1500 rps. if i reconnect it, it will go back down to about 600, 650 rpms (manual trans).i have checked all the codes with a snap on computer scanner and the only code at the time that i got was a o2 sensor that i have replaced.
if anyone has any tips or any other test i might be able to do let me know
or anyone with a manual trans what kind of readings do you get on your tps sensor witha ohm meter?
its in the manual, but I think it is suposed to show .5 ohm when closed and 4 ohm when WOT....and when opening it the ohm reading should climb smoothly. Then check for continunity....when closed you should have continunity, and as soon as it opens>>>>until WOT you should not have continunity.
Also just a side note, check you MAF....it sounds more like a MAF problem. Not reving over 2 K and having a high idle are all signs that either the MAF is not plugged in or its messed up.
-Carson
Also just a side note, check you MAF....it sounds more like a MAF problem. Not reving over 2 K and having a high idle are all signs that either the MAF is not plugged in or its messed up.
-Carson
Originally Posted by JDM_Maxima
does anyone know for sure the charteristics of a out of wack tps sensor?
i've been having this proplem for a little while now. with the sensor connected my car will not rev pass about 2k rps. now if i disconnet the brown clip from the sensor it with rev freely but the idle is at 1500 rps. if i reconnect it, it will go back down to about 600, 650 rpms (manual trans).i have checked all the codes with a snap on computer scanner and the only code at the time that i got was a o2 sensor that i have replaced.
if anyone has any tips or any other test i might be able to do let me know
or anyone with a manual trans what kind of readings do you get on your tps sensor witha ohm meter?
i've been having this proplem for a little while now. with the sensor connected my car will not rev pass about 2k rps. now if i disconnet the brown clip from the sensor it with rev freely but the idle is at 1500 rps. if i reconnect it, it will go back down to about 600, 650 rpms (manual trans).i have checked all the codes with a snap on computer scanner and the only code at the time that i got was a o2 sensor that i have replaced.
if anyone has any tips or any other test i might be able to do let me know
or anyone with a manual trans what kind of readings do you get on your tps sensor witha ohm meter?
tps
when you have a maf fault wouldnt you get a code from the ecu? even still i tried a new maf sensor and still the same thing, unless that one was shoot too?
Originally Posted by cardana24
its in the manual, but I think it is suposed to show .5 ohm when closed and 4 ohm when WOT....and when opening it the ohm reading should climb smoothly. Then check for continunity....when closed you should have continunity, and as soon as it opens>>>>until WOT you should not have continunity.
Also just a side note, check you MAF....it sounds more like a MAF problem. Not reving over 2 K and having a high idle are all signs that either the MAF is not plugged in or its messed up.
-Carson
Also just a side note, check you MAF....it sounds more like a MAF problem. Not reving over 2 K and having a high idle are all signs that either the MAF is not plugged in or its messed up.
-Carson
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