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HELP: passenger rear e-brake STUCK when cold

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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 05:47 PM
  #1  
kingrukus's Avatar
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HELP: passenger rear e-brake STUCK when cold

Hi all, my right rear wheel gets stuck when my e-brake is engaged. When I try and disengage it, it still does not free-up. I can feel a difference too in the ebrake handle. This only happens when the car is parked for a little while and it is cold out. The only way to get it moving is by driving the car hard and jamming the brakes a lot. Anyone know how to fix this?
Old Dec 13, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #2  
Julchen's Avatar
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I'll give you an answer, but first let me say that 'driving the car hard and jamming the brakes a lot' is doing nothing but bad for your car. You could either NOT do this and fix a simple, inexpensive problem, or continue beating the c@#p out of it in such a senseless way and end up with much more costly problems (like new rear pads rotors, which will be wrecked, and possibly a new rear wheel bearing which will be wrecked from overheating - keep it up).

Now, for a logical solution: Like lots of maximas, the e-brake cable often rips open where the rear suspension pivots. This lets water in the cable and rots everything out. You probably have some water inside which is freezing in cold weather and jamming the cable in its sleeve. You will know if its the cable by getting under the car, unhooking it from the caliper, and seeing if it moves in and out freely when someone operates the handle. If not, you know the cable is shot and needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you have a bad caliper.

Good luck.

Greg
Old Dec 13, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #3  
kingrukus's Avatar
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From: Toronto, ON
Originally Posted by Julchen
I'll give you an answer, but first let me say that 'driving the car hard and jamming the brakes a lot' is doing nothing but bad for your car. You could either NOT do this and fix a simple, inexpensive problem, or continue beating the c@#p out of it in such a senseless way and end up with much more costly problems (like new rear pads rotors, which will be wrecked, and possibly a new rear wheel bearing which will be wrecked from overheating - keep it up).

Now, for a logical solution: Like lots of maximas, the e-brake cable often rips open where the rear suspension pivots. This lets water in the cable and rots everything out. You probably have some water inside which is freezing in cold weather and jamming the cable in its sleeve. You will know if its the cable by getting under the car, unhooking it from the caliper, and seeing if it moves in and out freely when someone operates the handle. If not, you know the cable is shot and needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you have a bad caliper.

Good luck.

Greg
You are correct. My method of getting it loose is quite senseless. However when I am quite a distance away from home, id rather do that than getting it towed.

Anyhow do you have any idea on how to replace the ebrake cable? IS this a costly procedure? Is there a write-up? Sorry for the newbie questions...never had to deal with such a problem before.
Old Dec 13, 2004 | 07:25 PM
  #4  
kingrukus's Avatar
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no more maxima...
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From: Toronto, ON
I see here Motorvate has a simple fix:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303

However, this is not how to actually replace it. Hmm I am wondering if the fix will help..only way to know for sure is to check the line my self.
Old Dec 14, 2004 | 07:35 AM
  #5  
Julchen's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2004
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the motorvate.ca solution won't help any once the cable and inside of the sleeve is gummed up and corroded. Once your cable is bad you just have to replace it. I picked up a used on at the junkyard for $20. Replacing it involves unbolting all the attachment points (which, being in Canada will be all rotten, have fun!), completely loosening the adjusting bolt in the passenger compartment, unbolting two heat shields, and then messing with the hooks on the cables for about 45 minutes with long pliers, screwdrivers or whatever works, until you can get the new cable hooked onto the first cable (the one attached to the lever in the passenger compartment). It isn't all the bad, and you certainly don't need special knowledge, just lots of patients. Once everything is hooked up, you tighten the adjusting bolt until the weels hold the car after about 8 clicks of the handle. The adjustment might be different for different years, so check the shop manual if possible. But I will say that more lever travel is better because you really want to excercise the cable (i.e., lots of travel) to keep the cable itself, and the parking brake mechanism in the caliper, in good working order.

Greg
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:44 AM
  #6  
twiggy144's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Montreal
Been there, done that, last year. Like Julchen says, No special knowledge needed, just patience. Having the car jacked on 4 stands on all 4 corners will help, most of the hard work is right in the middle of the under car.
Old Dec 28, 2004 | 09:00 AM
  #7  
NCTuskie's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2004
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I had the same problem this morning. I managed to free it, but I'll work on replacing them thursday. I panicked for a moment. Thanks for this site.
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