ECU won't reset ... huh? (screwdriver method)
12-29-2004, 03:12 PM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 868
ECU won't reset ... huh? (screwdriver method)
Ok so like the title says my ecu won't reset, i tried like 20 times. I replaced my knock sensor with a 470k resistor to get rid of that damn code. And when i was done i tried to reset my ecu using the screw driver and low and behold it didn't work, I exactly what i've always done (and whats in the sticky's) i turned the screw clockwise stopped, turned back and immediately repeated, and all it did was put it right back into diagnostic mode. I was able to take it out of diagnostic mode, by turning it clockwise and back like normal (not repeating) but as many times as i tried i can't reset it. I went to Advance autoparts and they said they couldn't do it cause all that had was obd I =(... So what should i do? I Took it for a ride and tried again, and not only could i not reset the ecu i got a new damn code 1005 that i wasn't getting before. WTF 
12-29-2004, 07:51 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 143
Originally Posted by MrEous
...maybe your EGR Control Solenoid is out too?
I got the knock sensor code and the EGRC solenoid valve code at the same time. I replaced the EGR valve and was able to reset the CEL. It eventually came back on but it took me driving it for a couple of miles first.
Must be something else.
12-29-2004, 09:35 PM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 868
I'm more concerned about the fact that i can't reset the ecu, whether or not the sensors even still bad, the ecu should reset and read no codes before i start the car and it has time to check the sensors, so i'm left wondering wtf is up with my ecu.
12-30-2004, 02:07 AM
#6
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 706
sounds stupid, but are you sure you didnt unplug the connector for the egr solenoid? i actually did that before, and it threw the code.
also, i'm pretty sure the 1995's were obd II. look on the opposite side(passenger) of the ecu for the obd II plug.
also, i'm pretty sure the 1995's were obd II. look on the opposite side(passenger) of the ecu for the obd II plug.
12-30-2004, 03:06 AM
#7
Originally Posted by TonyGotSkilz
Ok so like the title says my ecu won't reset, i tried like 20 times. I replaced my knock sensor with a 470k resistor to get rid of that damn code. And when i was done i tried to reset my ecu using the screw driver and low and behold it didn't work, I exactly what i've always done (and whats in the sticky's) i turned the screw clockwise stopped, turned back and immediately repeated, and all it did was put it right back into diagnostic mode. I was able to take it out of diagnostic mode, by turning it clockwise and back like normal (not repeating) but as many times as i tried i can't reset it. I went to Advance autoparts and they said they couldn't do it cause all that had was obd I =(... So what should i do? I Took it for a ride and tried again, and not only could i not reset the ecu i got a new damn code 1005 that i wasn't getting before. WTF
Also don't listen to those tards at Advance Auto Parts. ALL 4th gens are OBD-II. The reason they (and other people) have the notion in their head that some are not is that in 1996 was the first year the government was requiring OBD-II and thus regulating the positioning of OBD-II connectors on cars. The reason they think it's not is because the OBD-II connector is not in the "required" spot on the 95s so they think "oh my gosh this car has to be OBD-I" even though it is not. Manufacturers were not required to put the OBD-II connector in a standard spot until model year 1996, so in 1995 if the car was OBD-II compliant (as the maxima was) they could put it wherever the heck they wanted to.
12-30-2004, 08:33 AM
#8
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
If your able to check your codes then it is fine. You have to do it twice like Neal said. Even if you did not reset the CEL it would eventually go off if the problem is fixed. The ECU checks it's systems and throws codes in cycles.
12-30-2004, 08:58 AM
#9
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 868
Ok first off, i don't think anyone read that right, i've reset my ecu's in my maxes at least 20 different times, and i did it right, i did it twice. I'm not a noob lol. And i've never heard of an ecu getting rid of a code by itself even when the problem was fixed unless its reset because it stores all the last codes until it is reset.
12-30-2004, 09:06 AM
#10
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by TonyGotSkilz
Ok first off, i don't think anyone read that right, i've reset my ecu's in my maxes at least 20 different times, and i did it right, i did it twice. I'm not a noob lol. And i've never heard of an ecu getting rid of a code by itself even when the problem was fixed unless its reset because it stores all the last codes until it is reset.
Ah, yes. Did not see that you repeated the process.
The CEL will turn off by itself. It has happend to me a few times. I may keep a stored code, that I am not sure of, but if during its check the problem is no longer found then the CEL will turn off.
12-30-2004, 04:53 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 723
yes, you should turn your key off after you reset your ECU. In between each cycle you do to reset, i'm pretty sure you are supposed to wait 2 sec. in between each cycle of the screw. So you turn it counterclockwise-clockwise...wait two sec...turn counterclockwise-turn clockwise...turn off ignition. Then start the car and see if the codes went away. I'm not sure if you start off turning the screw clockwise or counter, but you get the idea.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post