9007 conversion indifferences
#1
9007 conversion indifferences
i bought Nokya stage II Artic White bulbs and harnesses off ebay. Can't complain about the price. heres the link
I'm not sure i like the 9007 beam pattern however. It looks good on my garage but i got flashed twice already on my way to work at 6:30am this morning and there doesn't seem to be much difference between low and high beams.
maybe i just need to aim my lights lower, remind me is the inside (near grill) screw to adjust height, or is it the outside (near corner light)??
also which direction do i turn them, i remember not seeing much of a change the last time i tried to adjust them.
anyways, heres what they the look like, i little too blue for my liking, but they do look sweet and are bright
the glare is really bad on these pics, i'v gotta adjust my camera later and take some others. You get the idea of how bright these things are just standing in front of the car, and there just a lowbeams!!
the bulbs are rated at 7000K color temp, i'll give them a month or two to see if they grow on me, but I'll prob be lookin for 5000-6000K bulbs sometime later.
The harnesses appear to be of solid construction, althought they don't carry a Nokya logo, also the base of the bulbs i got had the logo, but was brown instead of black, but they work good so far so i can't complain
Anyone else have these Nokya's?? do you like them??
I'm not sure i like the 9007 beam pattern however. It looks good on my garage but i got flashed twice already on my way to work at 6:30am this morning and there doesn't seem to be much difference between low and high beams.
maybe i just need to aim my lights lower, remind me is the inside (near grill) screw to adjust height, or is it the outside (near corner light)??
also which direction do i turn them, i remember not seeing much of a change the last time i tried to adjust them.
anyways, heres what they the look like, i little too blue for my liking, but they do look sweet and are bright
the glare is really bad on these pics, i'v gotta adjust my camera later and take some others. You get the idea of how bright these things are just standing in front of the car, and there just a lowbeams!!
the bulbs are rated at 7000K color temp, i'll give them a month or two to see if they grow on me, but I'll prob be lookin for 5000-6000K bulbs sometime later.
The harnesses appear to be of solid construction, althought they don't carry a Nokya logo, also the base of the bulbs i got had the logo, but was brown instead of black, but they work good so far so i can't complain
Anyone else have these Nokya's?? do you like them??
#4
You do have to reaim the HD's after doing this mod. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but the thread makes this very clear...there will be alot of reaiming needed. That's why you've been getting flashed. Also did you switch around the wire's like the thread tells you to? That might be why the high and low beams don't seem right.
#6
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They look really bright on the pictures; are they as bright on the road? as per many times they just look bright looking at them from the front of the car but don't illuminate the road that much; I am thinking of switching to 9007 which are 55 watts of instead 45 in 9004 bulbs; but don't know if the 10 watts diference and the bulb pattern will be noticeable on road; well, let us know how they look after reaiming headlights, price wasn't bad at all.
#7
bro u have got to aim them WAY DOWN your light is being casted way too high on that garge door. I aimed mine down but I guess it wasn't enough. Every other night I get flashed by oncoming traffic's highbeams. My driver side needs to go down a little more. The beam patern is beautiful! Throw out those dino-9004s for some 9007s. It'll make you COOL!
#9
Originally Posted by JSutter
you definetly need to aim them lower. beam pattern still sucks but the output is considerably better. also make sure you have the bulb orientated correctly.
Silver stars BLOW....
Silver stars BLOW....
#10
Aim them lower by using the adjuster closest to the fender. I have had both Silverstars and Nokya Stage IIs. The Silverstars are not worth the money as the Nokyas are brighter and whiter.
~THT
~THT
#11
i have to agree with THT, i replaced the stock lights with silver stars last year and didn't notice much of a difference, just slightly whiter light.
these Nokya's however are much brighter and whiter. The stage IIs pull 80/100watts and give off as much light as 100/120watt bulbs (supposidly) thus they need the upgraded harness to handle the power increase.
Once I have a chance to aim the lights lower I'm sure they'll light up the road better, right now their just pointed stright into the air.
The color is nice, just more blueish than i expected, but then again 7000K is a very pretty white/blue color.
I wired the wires correctly, they wouldn't work if i hadn't. I was surprised how easy this mod was, the hardest part was removing the headlights and i'v done that before so i guess it helps to know what your doing.
When I have a chance I'll take some more pics and construct an addition to the write up that already exist, including how to remove the lights and more pics.
check back later tonight
these Nokya's however are much brighter and whiter. The stage IIs pull 80/100watts and give off as much light as 100/120watt bulbs (supposidly) thus they need the upgraded harness to handle the power increase.
Once I have a chance to aim the lights lower I'm sure they'll light up the road better, right now their just pointed stright into the air.
The color is nice, just more blueish than i expected, but then again 7000K is a very pretty white/blue color.
I wired the wires correctly, they wouldn't work if i hadn't. I was surprised how easy this mod was, the hardest part was removing the headlights and i'v done that before so i guess it helps to know what your doing.
When I have a chance I'll take some more pics and construct an addition to the write up that already exist, including how to remove the lights and more pics.
check back later tonight
#12
Originally Posted by NookieMax
I wired the wires correctly, they wouldn't work if i hadn't.
As long as the GND is hooked up, they will still come on.
You should be able to tell a difference between the highs and lows.
I had the 9004 Nokya artic whites and I could tell a difference in high and lows.
I now have MTEC 9007 and I can still tell a difference between the two.
#13
I've used every bulb out there it seems, the Nokyas are pretty good. Eurodezigns are pretty good. Silverstars put good light out but don't really have the bright HID look. I'm using MTEC right now like Flavor, and I must say that these are the best yet. Great light output and nice white/blue color. I'm still 9004, is the 9007 that great of an upgrade. Anyone have pics of light outputs side by side?
#14
Originally Posted by Big Tyme
I've used every bulb out there it seems, the Nokyas are pretty good. Eurodezigns are pretty good. Silverstars put good light out but don't really have the bright HID look. I'm using MTEC right now like Flavor, and I must say that these are the best yet. Great light output and nice white/blue color. I'm still 9004, is the 9007 that great of an upgrade. Anyone have pics of light outputs side by side?
I was in the same baot as you. I have had so many diffrent bulbs and although I liked the Nokya's the light output wasnt good enough for me.
Not having the cash or time to do the projectors and not wanting the scattered output of HID's I chose to do the 9007 conversion.
Cheap and easy.
It makes a world of difference and I am now happy with my light output.
#15
Conversion
So is this mod done by just switching the wiring harness? If the difference is that great i am definatly doing it. It took me a while to figure out why my harnesses were melting but now i know.
#16
click here to see the current write up of the 9007 conversion by JSutter
it also has decent pics to compare the 9004 and 9007
FLAVOR -> for the conversion you swith the low beam and ground, it you don't do it the lights won't work, and either way i should see a difference even if the low and high were swaped. thanks for you input tho
what color tamp are the MTEC ones you have, and did you have the stage I or stage II nokya's, the stage II's i got are pretty bright, not HID, but you can tell from the pics
it also has decent pics to compare the 9004 and 9007
FLAVOR -> for the conversion you swith the low beam and ground, it you don't do it the lights won't work, and either way i should see a difference even if the low and high were swaped. thanks for you input tho
what color tamp are the MTEC ones you have, and did you have the stage I or stage II nokya's, the stage II's i got are pretty bright, not HID, but you can tell from the pics
#17
Originally Posted by NookieMax
click here to see the current write up of the 9007 conversion by JSutter
it also has decent pics to compare the 9004 and 9007
FLAVOR -> for the conversion you swith the low beam and ground, it you don't do it the lights won't work, and either way i should see a difference even if the low and high were swaped. thanks for you input tho
what color tamp are the MTEC ones you have, and did you have the stage I or stage II nokya's, the stage II's i got are pretty bright, not HID, but you can tell from the pics
it also has decent pics to compare the 9004 and 9007
FLAVOR -> for the conversion you swith the low beam and ground, it you don't do it the lights won't work, and either way i should see a difference even if the low and high were swaped. thanks for you input tho
what color tamp are the MTEC ones you have, and did you have the stage I or stage II nokya's, the stage II's i got are pretty bright, not HID, but you can tell from the pics
Yes, I know you swap the GND's.
Thats why I stated as long as the ground is hooked up, they will work. Try swapping the hi and lows around with the GND in their new locations and see if that makes a difference.They should.
Or you could just run the ground from the actual bulb straight to the GND of the battery.
Unless the stage II's are different then the Stage I's (other then a slight brightness) I wouldnt see why their wouldnt be a difference in hi and low.
I had the older versions I belive.
The MTECs are rated at 4,350K so their more of a whiter color.
Little to no blue in them.
#18
i believe the stage I is rated 60/80watt light output while the stage II is 100/120watt output
i just think my lights wear aimed too high so any difference in low and high beams wouldn't be as noticeable as it would be if they were aimed lower.
so the fender side screw adjusts the height?? I'm going to try this tonight
i just think my lights wear aimed too high so any difference in low and high beams wouldn't be as noticeable as it would be if they were aimed lower.
so the fender side screw adjusts the height?? I'm going to try this tonight
#21
There's a seller on ebay (forgot the name) that sells a 9007 upgraded harness for around $40, but you need to switch the wires around. That's pretty easy though. I'll sell you a converted one for $60 . It will be better than the one Nookiemax got because it only uses the stock harness for a signal and uses relays to draw power off the battery.
#22
Originally Posted by Terran
There's a seller on ebay (forgot the name) that sells a 9007 upgraded harness for around $40, but you need to switch the wires around. That's pretty easy though. I'll sell you a converted one for $60 . It will be better than the one Nookiemax got because it only uses the stock harness for a signal and uses relays to draw power off the battery.
#23
No. Using the aftermarket harness that take power from the battery is better than the aftermarket harness (that nookiemax used) that takes power from the stock harness.
Bassically he extended the stock harness. With the harness that uses relays the actual power is being pulled off the battery with only a signal coming from the stock harness...this avoids burning the stock harness up when using overwattage bulbs. Read Jsutter's thread on the subject (http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=312531) and hopefully you'll understand then.
Here's the harness. They're all the same so it doesn't matter what car it says it's for. Don't forget that you'll have to swap the wires. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6763.
Bassically he extended the stock harness. With the harness that uses relays the actual power is being pulled off the battery with only a signal coming from the stock harness...this avoids burning the stock harness up when using overwattage bulbs. Read Jsutter's thread on the subject (http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=312531) and hopefully you'll understand then.
Here's the harness. They're all the same so it doesn't matter what car it says it's for. Don't forget that you'll have to swap the wires. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6763.
#24
wow that has to be one of the worst ebay descriptions i'v seen in a while.
anyways, yes, i spliced the new harness into my stock harness and sodered the wires (switch the ground and lowbeam so the ground runs to the middle of the harness plug) it seems to be working fine for now, and i def see an improvement over the stock wattage.
those other harnesses with the relays would allow more power to pass i guess, but the stock one seems to be feeding my Nokya stage II bulbs with no problem.
and by the way, i aimed the lights lower a couple minutes ago, and they light up the road much better now
anyways, yes, i spliced the new harness into my stock harness and sodered the wires (switch the ground and lowbeam so the ground runs to the middle of the harness plug) it seems to be working fine for now, and i def see an improvement over the stock wattage.
those other harnesses with the relays would allow more power to pass i guess, but the stock one seems to be feeding my Nokya stage II bulbs with no problem.
and by the way, i aimed the lights lower a couple minutes ago, and they light up the road much better now
#25
Which? The one with the relays? If you read Jsutter's thread you'll find that that is what he recommends as the local 9007 conversion guru. He made his own, but the fact remains that you essentially just added an extension onto the stock harness and it will burn up if you try to run too much wattage through it...Just stick with lower wattage bulbs and you'll be all set.
#26
that is a terrible description, so pick up that harness...not really sure how the wiring goes but it cant be that hard....
and you also have to cut out the two bottom nubs of the headlight housing to fit the 9007 bulbs
what about bulb selection...that write up talks about sylvannia xtravision
and you also have to cut out the two bottom nubs of the headlight housing to fit the 9007 bulbs
what about bulb selection...that write up talks about sylvannia xtravision
#27
Just swap the ones that line up with the ones that thread tells you to switch. You won't even need to cut any wires. You can get the metal nubs out of the connector by pushing on the part that holds it in with some pointed object. It's kind of hard to explain, but if you can't figure it out after you get it just PM me and I'll try to explain better.
#28
so whats the deal? should i get the full harness upgrade or just the harness without the relay? it seems a lot simplier to install the harness without the relay.
has anyone burned there wires by installing the harness without the relay?
and is there difference in brightness between the two harness?
thanks.
has anyone burned there wires by installing the harness without the relay?
and is there difference in brightness between the two harness?
thanks.
#31
The full harness is recommended because it can handle any wattage bulb. The stock wires are thin gauge.....too thin for good light output. Using the stock wires with a higher wattage bulbs is like slamming you car with Ground Control coilovers on stock struts. It works but for how long and not very well.
If you think installing the full harness is hard you may as well not work on your own car. Ask your girl friend to do it for you
J/K but seriously its not hard. splicing the stock wires would yeild in longer time anyway since you have to do all 6 wires not just the 2 low and ground on the drivers side.
If you think installing the full harness is hard you may as well not work on your own car. Ask your girl friend to do it for you
J/K but seriously its not hard. splicing the stock wires would yeild in longer time anyway since you have to do all 6 wires not just the 2 low and ground on the drivers side.
#32
Originally Posted by JSutter
If you think installing the full harness is hard you may as well not work on your own car. Ask your girl friend to do it for you
With the NTBK harness you actually won't need to splice any wires because you can get the wires out of the connector that plugs into the driver's side stock harness and just swap them that way.
#33
i'm running nokya stage II's 9004 and I like the output color, but the actual purpose of the light [lighting up the road] it's not too great on. I don't know what this talk about switching the ground and low beams is, but all i did with the upgraded harness was solder whatever wire was on the right to the wire on the right on the harness, whatever was on the center to the center wire of the harness. Did I do something wrong? I will try aiming them down, but I haven't gotten flashed by anyone. I've had them on for about 3 months.
#35
Originally Posted by kbmaxima
i'm running nokya stage II's 9004 and I like the output color, but the actual purpose of the light [lighting up the road] it's not too great on. I don't know what this talk about switching the ground and low beams is, but all i did with the upgraded harness was solder whatever wire was on the right to the wire on the right on the harness, whatever was on the center to the center wire of the harness. Did I do something wrong? I will try aiming them down, but I haven't gotten flashed by anyone. I've had them on for about 3 months.
In the end the most important aspect of headlights is to do just that, light up the road. IMO it does not seem worth it to change bulbs if the visibility/lighting of the road is sacrificed.
#36
Originally Posted by caudio51
The purpose is to upgrade the 9004 to the 9007. In doing so the beam pattern as well as the wattage of the bulb will be improved and increased respectively. The rest of the thread is just help with choosing harnesses, bulbs and the steps needed to install all of them.
In the end the most important aspect of headlights is to do just that, light up the road. IMO it does not seem worth it to change bulbs if the visibility/lighting of the road is sacrificed.
In the end the most important aspect of headlights is to do just that, light up the road. IMO it does not seem worth it to change bulbs if the visibility/lighting of the road is sacrificed.
#37
Originally Posted by kbmaxima
ok i thought i did something wrong with the wiring and was sacrificing light output. I do want to light up the road, but with one headlight and not much time or patience, I just got the nokya's with the harnesses for 40 shipped. decent deal off ebay if u ask me. i'm too poor for the piaa's and stock was just too ugly.
#38
Originally Posted by caudio51
and you also have to cut out the two bottom nubs of the headlight housing to fit the 9007 bulbs
About cutting hte bottom nubs, I do not recommend you doing that because that will cause the shavings of the nubs to either fall into the housing and you'll end up having to take the whole headlight out to take it out. I took a dremel and just cut the indents into the bulb itself rather than modify the headlihgt housing.
#39
Originally Posted by wariow
Great mod, did it last year but haven't had the time to reaim. THey're not too blue and the difference is day and night b/w the PIAA xtreme white's 9004's vs the nokya 9007's. Everyone thinks I have HID's but I have regular bulbs It's ricey but hey it only cost me 37 bucks shipped for harness and bulbs.
About cutting hte bottom nubs, I do not recommend you doing that because that will cause the shavings of the nubs to either fall into the housing and you'll end up having to take the whole headlight out to take it out. I took a dremel and just cut the indents into the bulb itself rather than modify the headlihgt housing.
About cutting hte bottom nubs, I do not recommend you doing that because that will cause the shavings of the nubs to either fall into the housing and you'll end up having to take the whole headlight out to take it out. I took a dremel and just cut the indents into the bulb itself rather than modify the headlihgt housing.
I need to figure out which bulbs I want to run now......