maxmonk

Guys here is my story...

I have had my Max for last 2yrs and have around 135K miles on it.. for last few weeks it was slight sluggish, choppy low idle, and wouldnt feel like Max.. then one day it suddenly stalled at the light... and wouldnt start for like 7-10 mins.. fortunately it was near our home so we called a friend and by the time he arrived it had already started.. without taking any further risks I took it at pepboys to run a diagnosis.. (first mistake and 90$ lost)..

They kept it for a day and called back saying the only thing wrong they could see is knock sensor and everything else looks fine... their estimate for replacing KS was (245 part + 4hr labor = 580$).

I took the car back from there and got KS replaced at a local chinese mech.. (240$ in all). He also said my car was showing code 0103.. but he checked and ETCS was good. He reset the check engine light.. and asked me to drive for a week and see..

Car was slightly better but within a week & half the car stalled again at light and again CEL was on (I checked the code myself and it was 0103 ETCS). I came here and read some posts about wrong ETCS code because of Spark plugs and other stuff... Also found out that jumpy low-idle was because of unclean throttle body....

I replaced sparkplugs... cleaned throttle body... added a fuel injection cleaner in the fuel tank(Lucas) there is a big difference in the engine noise and smoothness. Car starts like a new car.. dont have to turn the key for more than few milliseconds.. BUT then again after driving for like 4-5 minutes (now the idle is not choppy.. overall the car runs smooth) when you are slowing down RPM comes to 700-1000 rpm and then suddenly the engine car stalls. Same symptoms again... it doesnt start for like 8-10 mins but if you try after that it starts again...

Do you guys know if ECTS controls fuel injection or something else that can stall the car at low RPM... Guys please help..

Here is short story...
1. 95 Max GXE/ 135K -- engine sluggish, choppy low idle, gave KS and 0103 code twice
2. replaced KS and mechanic said ETCS is ok and reset CEL
3. got 0103 again after couple of weeks..
4. replaced Sparkplugs.. cleaned throttlebody.. added fuel inj cleaner.
5. car starts lot better, engine sound is good, idle is smooth but still stalls after some time.. (when slowing down.. at around 1000-700 RPM)

drewm

Since the ETCS is just an electric temp sensor, it can't be that expensive. I'd just have someone replace it. From it being near the upper radiator hose it should be quite easy to replace, and even you could probably do it. I bet its just giving a overtemp reading and causing the ECU to prevent the car from starting for a few minutes while it cools down. You've probably seen this already, but the description of the location of the sensor is here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...30&postcount=4

Unless the engine is actually overheating... that's a different story.

maxmonk

Is it possible that ECTS is giving a real high reading to ECU and ECU decides to stop the fuel supply/or current to ignition and making the engine stall ??

drewm

Probably, especially if it starts up in a few minutes after things cooled down. Change the ECTS. I can't imagine a temp sensor being more than $40

maxmonk

Got it for 31.25 at nissan dealer.. in process of changing now.. let me come back and update if it worked.

simreal

I am having the exact same problem with my 95 GLE. The only difference is doesn't always take 10 minutes. sometimes (most of the time) i can start it right up and drive on. I have notice if I keep my RPMs up and try not to stop at intersections (which usually means slowing down half a block before the red light) it wont stall. Its when I stop or slow down rapidly.


Please let me know if you resolve your trouble so thy the same fix on mine.

wope

iTrader: (1)

i had this exact same problem and code.. only it would stall randomly. the sensor was about 15 bucks from autozone and i havent had any problems at all since changing it

simreal

Well I replaced the coolant temp sensor and darnit if it didnt stall immediately. I thought well ... Ill drive it for a few minutes and see if it might need t adjust to the new readings but I didnt even make it around the block and it stalled again.


I don't think the temp sensor is my problem.


Any other ideas?

dallas0593

iTrader: (10)

Did you reset your ECU after installation? Did it throw out any new codes?

simreal

I didnt reset the ecu. I just bought the car and I dont know how to do that. I will search the forums and see if I can find the info.

Should I be looking for a new code? Or is it possible I need to do that to fix the problem?

I should also mention my code is 0304. The code sugguest a knock sensor is faulty or possibly the wiring harness. Is it possible this trouble is caused by the knock sensor?


UPDATE---

Ok .. I reset the ECu. I got a code 0505 (no faults)

Then I started it and drove it approx 1 mile .. the engine was then warm and sur enough .. it stalled right out.

I limped home and checked again and got the 0304 again. (FYI 0304 is the only code its giving me)

maximabebe

iTrader: (24)

Hmmmmmmmm MAF maybe?

maxmonk

I replaced the ECTS and now the car doesnt stall.. The idling is very smooth.. when the car is cold it the engine starts at around 1500rpm and slowly and gradually(around 3-4 minutes) goes to 650-700 range.

Here are the list of things that I did or got done...

1. Replace spark plugs (big change in the way it starts and jump in power)
2. changed KS (it gave the code and when the mech pulled it out the covering plastic was cracked.)
3. Cleaned throttle body (dont think it was real dirty but definitely helped)
4. Added fuel injection cleaner to Gas. (maybe this helped too)
5. Replaced ECTS (this finally stopped the stalling.. When I went to Nissan parts and asked for it, the guy there asked .. "Is this the sensor that sends signal to brain and regulates the FUEL" ... So it does look like this is cuplrit)
6. I am also going to get coolant flushed and new one put in.. because when I got the old sensor out it had all this Green lint like stuff stuck to it.... I am not sure what else is stuck there..)

I drove my car like 10-15 mins with some speed(40mph) and numerous stops in between. After that I went and stopped at a place for like 15 mins and then started the car again and drove back home.. It did not stall VIOLA !!!



simreal, 0304 is for Knock Sensor.. Although as per Gurus here I dont think it will stall your car.. it runs around 110-150bucks and you can change it yourself.. (i paid 240 to get it changed .. foolish me)

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...59&postcount=9

drewm

You're welcome

simreal

Yeah I know. But I already replaced the ECTS and its still stalling.


---EDIT---
Replaced the KS and still stalling. What else could it be?

maxmonk

Ok Simreal.. why dont you describe how it starts up and whats the idle RPM and if any noises you get?? Also is the its IDLEing <<typo>> smooth...

There could be many reasons for your car to stall.. bad spark plugs, unclean fuel injectors, messy throttle body etc etc...

-- EDIT --
I got the coolant flushed and the good stuff put in... Pepboys has special for 49.99 but they were really busy.. so I went to Jiffy lube and asked them to match the price and they did..

simreal

It starts absolutely fine. It idles quite nicely. It revs and settles like its brand new. The engine knocks just for the first few seconds then purs like a kitten. When starts and driving the car its like brand new. You woulnd't even know theres a problem .... until the very moment it stalls.

Once it stalls it will crank right over like its gonna start but it doesnt fire. Sometimes I have to wait 5-10 minutes to get it to start again.

I have replaced the ECTS, the KS, and the Fuelk Filter up to this point.

Starting today I got an 02 Sensor code. (0503 - I Think it was) Cleared the ECU and drove it again. Then I got 0901 which is also the 02 Sensor. I havent replaced it yet. Even if thats bad (which it didn't even give me a code for until today) I don't think that would cause it to stall.

WHat do you think?

drewm

Since those two codes pointed at the same O2 sensor, I'd have it replaced. Although I would be suprised if the O2 kept it from starting. The ECU is supposed to use the rear O2 sensor when one of the front ones fail. You read out all the codes right? Sometimes it spits out more than one.

simreal

I'm sure I read the codes right.

dwiegman@uwc.ed

Ok...newbie here. What is the ECTS? Sorry but I have had the similar issue and have tried all kinds of different things. 97 SE auto here with 133K. Have performed a full tune-up (no belts but everything else). Typically use 93 octane. Problem is hesitation and I've replaced the MAF 2 times with "second-hand" MAFs and the problem still comes back. Here's the odd part.....now that it's been cold, the car runs great. As the outside temperature rises (we'll say above 40), the car hesitates on acceleration and runs poorly. Any suggestions?

simreal

ECTS is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

desiboi

Hi Everyone,

I just finished reading this entire thread, and I am having the exact same problem. My '95 GLE has the Check Engine Light on, and I've been told that it is the coolant temperature sensor and knock sensor that is causing the light. I read a number of different things on this thread, but what is the final resolution? Which of these do I need to replace? What is this about "flushing" the engine coolant, if I understand correctly?

Also, I have a hole in my flex pipe, which makes a reasonably loud sound while accelerating. I imagine that this would lower fuel efficiency. Would this also be contributing to the stalling?

I'm relieved to know that others have had and resolved the same problem. Can someone guide me to what the accepted solution is and technically what the reason is that the car stalls?

Thanks very much!

Cheers,

- Neil

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Neil - stop posting the same thing over and over again. This is at least the 2nd if not 3rd time I am reading abour your car. Read the stickies, pull the codes from your car and fix the problems that have been reported.

1. Fix the ECTS (as someone has already told you, its a $20 part and will take 10 mins).
2. Reset the ECU, check for codes again in a few days. If no codes are reported, you are done.

The hesitation may be caused by your ECTS - until you replace that, you will never know if that fixed it.

One more thing, stop bringing up threads from out of the woodwork.

qazplm1999

I have 97 GLE auto. When I drive it for a while and the engine is warm, the idle speed falls to 500rpm, and occasionally it will stall at red light or stop sign and I couldn't start the car for 5-10 minutes. No codes shown. I read that a dirty TB will cause a jumpy idle, but mine is not jumpy, it's just low and causes stall.
Any suggestions?

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Talk about a bump from hell. A dirty TB or a dirty IAC Valve will cause a low idle and stalling at idle.

qazplm1999

Thank you mizzax. I'll have those cleaned to see.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

It would be bet for you to clean them yourself since you will do the most thorough job. The dealer will usually charge around $120+ but probably will not take the TB off. If you are local to me (NYC) and can't do it yourself let me know. Whoever you get to do it, make sure new gaskets are used and make sure both the TB adn IAC Valve are taken off and cleaned thoroughly.

qazplm1999

I wanted to try to clean them myself. 25c below 0 outside and in my garage make it vey hard, specially for someone like me who have no experience working on cars. I wish I was living in NYC, but I am way up north in Canada. Thank you for your kind offer though.