Time for a new motor?
#1
Time for a new motor?
I was changing my alternator out, and I notice that there is coolant leaking out out of my oil pan.... I first thought it was just leaking down somewhere else but I checked everywhere else. I looked in my oil cap and I see a little oil and coolant mixture....It looked like greenish gooey oil.
Well I think I might need a new motor cuz of this ...what do u think.
thanx
Well I think I might need a new motor cuz of this ...what do u think.
thanx
#5
The motor still runs strong...its justthat ish... really disturbs...everyone was telling me thats what I get for gettin blown....I am mostly like gonna pick up another VQ on the side for that day....wish there could be an alternative...how hard is it to do a head gasket?....vs. ... mootr swap.
#6
This is going to be alot of work!!!!!!!
To get to the cylinder heads you need to remove:
1) intake assembly (filter box, MAF,resonator) and TB
2) intake manifold
3) valve covers
4) drive belts and idler pulley
5) upper/lower oil pans
6) water pump cover
7) timing chain case cover
8) timing chain, camshalft sprockets, and related components
9) the rear timing chain case cover
10) camshafts
11) then finally the cylinder head bolts
And since your already down there, you might as well replace other things that are probably going to sooner or later such as timing chain, water pump, and other related components. Check the valves for signs of wear and stuff. It's recommended you replace the head bolts for proper torque and seal against leakage.
To remove engine, you need to:
1) remove hood
2) release fuel system pressure
3) disconnect battery
4) raise and support vehicle securely (make sure it clears the engine/transaxle)
5) tag and detach all engine harness connectors (not sure how many there is)
6) drain coolant
7) drain crankcase and transaxle
8) remove radiator and fan assembly
9) tag and disconnect all vacuum hoses, wires, and harness connectors to the engine/transaxle assembly
10) disconnect exhaust manifold and y-pipe.
11) remove driveshafts
12) remove alt, ps pump, a/c compressor
13) disconnect shift linkage or control cable from transaxle
14) attach hoist to engine and remove motor mount bolts
15) lower the engine/transaxle onto a dolly and roll from underneath the engine
WHEEEEEW!!!! Personally, I'd hate to be the one to do this or pay someone else to do this. Either way it'll be painful. But good luck. I'm sure you can get support from orgers who have done engine swaps before.
To get to the cylinder heads you need to remove:
1) intake assembly (filter box, MAF,resonator) and TB
2) intake manifold
3) valve covers
4) drive belts and idler pulley
5) upper/lower oil pans
6) water pump cover
7) timing chain case cover
8) timing chain, camshalft sprockets, and related components
9) the rear timing chain case cover
10) camshafts
11) then finally the cylinder head bolts
And since your already down there, you might as well replace other things that are probably going to sooner or later such as timing chain, water pump, and other related components. Check the valves for signs of wear and stuff. It's recommended you replace the head bolts for proper torque and seal against leakage.
To remove engine, you need to:
1) remove hood
2) release fuel system pressure
3) disconnect battery
4) raise and support vehicle securely (make sure it clears the engine/transaxle)
5) tag and detach all engine harness connectors (not sure how many there is)
6) drain coolant
7) drain crankcase and transaxle
8) remove radiator and fan assembly
9) tag and disconnect all vacuum hoses, wires, and harness connectors to the engine/transaxle assembly
10) disconnect exhaust manifold and y-pipe.
11) remove driveshafts
12) remove alt, ps pump, a/c compressor
13) disconnect shift linkage or control cable from transaxle
14) attach hoist to engine and remove motor mount bolts
15) lower the engine/transaxle onto a dolly and roll from underneath the engine
WHEEEEEW!!!! Personally, I'd hate to be the one to do this or pay someone else to do this. Either way it'll be painful. But good luck. I'm sure you can get support from orgers who have done engine swaps before.
#12
i personally have changed the head gasket on two motors before, neither were in a max, one was a 1991 Buick Century, and the other was in a boat, so it doesnt really count. its a pain, plan on spending many days, or lots of money if you dont do it yourself. i just did it with my dad, and we dont even have a lift, just jack stands and an engine hoist we borrowed. it is possible, but it isnt easy.
#15
If your engine is overheating. As well as take a smell of your exhuast.. it will smell rather sweet. And antifreeze should be dripping out of the tailpipe slowly if u had a headgasket blow. I had mine blow on a mustang i had. The engine did some strange things..be carefull you can put a rod through your block if u drive it really hard with a blown gasket.
#16
I think i should just wash the car....maybe that will fix the project... I am keepin my blower so I think I can ony get it btween 95-98.... I wish i can frankenstein this situation....I am gonna run it til it blows.. Its not major but something I have to attend to in the future. preciate ur support guys...if I do frankenstein the motor.... think I can stil have my blower?
#17
Where is the coolant coming from? Is it on the externals of the engine? It cant leak out of the pan without having a hole to leak from. If its in the front corner by the alt its probably a water pump leaking . Thats where the weep from when they leak. All maximas will build up some whiteish looking stuff on the back of the oil cap thats just condensation.
#18
You guys are all wrong its a waterpump which is run off the timing chain. I have yet to see a headgasket leak coolant into the oil on a VQ. The water pump is a PITA to change but im about 99% sure thats your problem.
#19
#23
Basically what im trying to say is you dont wanna do this if you have no knowledge of it. I can do it no problem. Considering I have done VQ35s in 4th gens making well over 200whp with no help from anyone on here. I dont think you need too be an a$$ spddracer I know the VQs inside and out. Labor guide shows about 5 hrs labor too do it so i wouldnt say its as simple as locking and removing a plate and reinstalling.
#24
OMG water pump is a terrible job, i had Midas do it and even they managed to fudge it and break my tensioner costing me an extra 100 bucks. They said it was gonna break anyone lol.... and i've tried it myself before that ... word of advice, don't even bother it SUX... also to get to it you have jack up one side of your engine btw.
#25
basically the the leakage is in the the seal of the oil pan....coolant dripping out of there...if anything it should be oil.. loosing alot of coolant also. I looked at the dip stick it doesn 't look like it has any coolant in there... I will keep u guys posted.
#26
Thats what it "looks" like but the water pump will seep thru that hole. Thats why its there. Its not coming out of the oil pan its coming from the WP passage. Since the pumps are internal they make a slot there for the coolant to leak if the pump starts leaking or it would leak internally into the engine.
#27
okay... let me diagnose the problem some more... hopefully u guys are right about the water pump. cuz my car runs fine.....I barely take it up to the upper RPM ....thanx tilley, spddracer for some great insites. preciate yo knowledge will find out this weekendafter i install the altanator. peace out guys.
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