$780 for a lower control arm replacement?
#1
$780 for a lower control arm replacement?
I definitely won't be taking my car in to the dealership for this. I just got off the phone, and first, they want 463.00 just for the lower control arm, and then 277.00 for the labor. I couldnt stop from laughing, especially when i know we can order the part from the computer, for around 150 bucks. I was trying to decide if I wanted to do this work on my own, but that phone call just made up my mind for me!
#2
Originally Posted by Zeus97MAX
I definitely won't be taking my car in to the dealership for this. I just got off the phone, and first, they want 463.00 just for the lower control arm, and then 277.00 for the labor. I couldnt stop from laughing, especially when i know we can order the part from the computer, for around 150 bucks. I was trying to decide if I wanted to do this work on my own, but that phone call just made up my mind for me!
#3
Originally Posted by Kehops
I was quoted 230$ CAN for one control arm at my dealer. For these parts I would try to stick with actuall Nissan replacement parts. You might also need the control link which more times than others will break during removal of old control arm.
What number on this diagram?
#4
Originally Posted by mzmtg
WTF is the "control link"?
What number on this diagram?
What number on this diagram?
Or # 16, I'm having a hard time seeing the numbers.
#5
Originally Posted by Kehops
lol, I wasn't sure of the name. #17, Traverse link
sway bar end link #17
steering knuckle #24
the car
#6
Originally Posted by mzmtg
The transverse link IS the control arm. The only things that attach to the control arm are:
sway bar end link #17
steering knuckle #24
the car
sway bar end link #17
steering knuckle #24
the car
#7
Originally Posted by VeeQueue
I think he may be referring to #15 link bushing pin.
It's that greasy piece going through the middle in this pic:
#8
Originally Posted by mzmtg
There's no way that would break. At least I can't imagine that it would.
It's that greasy piece going through the middle in this pic:
It's that greasy piece going through the middle in this pic:
No that's not it. Not sure what number it is on the diagram but the dealer calls it the stabilizer link.
#11
I had replaced this on my old 93 Max and I think it might be time for new ones on my 97. What do you guys think about the ebay control arms? I was told it's good to go with OE Nissan for these kinds of parts but the ebay ones don't look to shaby and are 1/3 of dealer price.
http://motors.search.ebay.com/Maxima...Z1QQsofocusZbs
http://motors.search.ebay.com/Maxima...Z1QQsofocusZbs
#13
Bumping this thread up because I didnt want to start a new thread about my question.
I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.
I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.
#14
Originally Posted by JeEvE
Bumping this thread up because I didnt want to start a new thread about my question.
I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.
I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.
However, the other side (passenger) just slid out so
Those pin links are NOT cheap - 35 bucks a side.
I know everyones going to say just heat it up, but you have to be careful since the pin link is aluminum and you don't want to warp it...
My recommendation (if you don't mind paying a little for peace of mind), is to order two, and if you end up not using them, just return them (you lose some shipping)... just make sure whoever you buy them from will let you return them. I would start by calling Dave Burnette (Garrands Nissan).
Cheers, and let me know if you have any questions about the whole LCA removal/reinstall.
#15
Hey, thanks for the reply. That really helps to know that I might have some trouble with it. Did you ever end up getting the other one out? I was thinking about using a C-clamp if its stuck, seems like it would be able to break it loose. A little heat also shouldnt hurt the aluminum.
#16
Originally Posted by JeEvE
Hey, thanks for the reply. That really helps to know that I might have some trouble with it. Did you ever end up getting the other one out? I was thinking about using a C-clamp if its stuck, seems like it would be able to break it loose. A little heat also shouldnt hurt the aluminum.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by JeEvE
Bumping this thread up because I didnt want to start a new thread about my question.
I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.
I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.
#19
Originally Posted by deoncollins69
Has some one used the ebay lower control arms here. I need a set in the next week or so. I would like to know if they are junk or what?
#22
Thanks man. I dont mean to bother you but what other parts do you recommend changiing while you are doing this job?
Planning on changing:
1 Lower Control Arm (Left) complete OE K9818L,
1 lower Control Arm (right) complete OE K9818R for Nissan Maxima 1995-99, Infiniti I30 94-99, includes bushings and ball joint,
2 Inner Tie rod end OE EV352,
2 Outer Tie rod end OE ES3438,
2 Sway bar link K90126.
Then an alignment!
Planning on changing:
1 Lower Control Arm (Left) complete OE K9818L,
1 lower Control Arm (right) complete OE K9818R for Nissan Maxima 1995-99, Infiniti I30 94-99, includes bushings and ball joint,
2 Inner Tie rod end OE EV352,
2 Outer Tie rod end OE ES3438,
2 Sway bar link K90126.
Then an alignment!
#24
I started on my control arms and #15 link bushing pin did give me a problem. I decided not to order another set because im tight on money. Im going to cut through the control arm, bushing and metal sleeve and then it should come right off.
Im also having a lot of trouble with removing the bolts that bolt the #15 link bushing pin to the body. I went and bought a 600ft/lbs max impact wrench and that still did not work. Anyone have any ideas?
Im also having a lot of trouble with removing the bolts that bolt the #15 link bushing pin to the body. I went and bought a 600ft/lbs max impact wrench and that still did not work. Anyone have any ideas?
#25
Originally Posted by JeremysBlkMax97
How do you know if you need new lower control arms?
#26
Originally Posted by nismology
You almost never will unless you jump a curb or something (read:bent the control arm). Both the control arm bushings and the balljoint are removable and replaceable so getting a brand new control arm makes virtually no sense as far as money is concerned.
#27
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
Unless u need new ball-joints and dont have a press and it costs 400 bux get ball-joints done.....or u can buy control arms for 75 bux a side and replace them on a saturday afternoon
#28
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
Unless u need new ball-joints and dont have a press and it costs 400 bux get ball-joints done.....or u can buy control arms for 75 bux a side and replace them on a saturday afternoon
30+10 != 400
#30
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
....nismology howd u do it with out a press
I removed the snap ring and banged it out with a hammer. Then reversed the process for installation.
#31
hmmmmmm.....hammers and ball-joints....ill use my friends press....but i still like the idea of new bushings with the new control arms....i figure teh cost of new bushings and the ball joint itself is worth the 75 alone....again thats me....Either way there are many cheaper options for the original poser to get his ball-joints replaced
#32
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
hmmmmmm.....hammers and ball-joints....ill use my friends press....but i still like the idea of new bushings with the new control arms....i figure teh cost of new bushings and the ball joint itself is worth the 75 alone....again thats me....Either way there are many cheaper options for the original poser to get his ball-joints replaced
FYI, my method is the cheapest and works perfectly fine.
#33
Originally Posted by nismology
Fixed...
I removed the snap ring and banged it out with a hammer. Then reversed the process for installation.
I removed the snap ring and banged it out with a hammer. Then reversed the process for installation.
it worked fine but would be easier with a press .. now i have a swollen thumb
#34
Originally Posted by nismology
What the hell? There's nothing wrong with using a hammer as long as you don't hammer the threaded portion on the new balljoint like a . Whatever, if creativity scares you, go with the "easier" option.
FYI, my method is the cheapest and works perfectly fine.
FYI, my method is the cheapest and works perfectly fine.
hammers pinch very well for most jobs... the french wrench as i call it..
and hey im part french..
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