I definitely won't be taking my car in to the dealership for this. I just got off the phone, and first, they want 463.00 just for the lower control arm, and then 277.00 for the labor. I couldnt stop from laughing, especially when i know we can order the part from the computer, for around 150 bucks. I was trying to decide if I wanted to do this work on my own, but that phone call just made up my mind for me!

I was quoted 230$ CAN for one control arm at my dealer. For these parts I would try to stick with actuall Nissan replacement parts. You might also need the control link which more times than others will break during removal of old control arm.

WTF is the "control link"?

What number on this diagram?

lol, I wasn't sure of the name. #17, Traverse link...I think. It's connects to the top of the control arm. When I took my control arm off, everything was seized and it just snapped when I pulled it out. My mech tells me this is not uncommon.

Or # 16, I'm having a hard time seeing the numbers.

The transverse link IS the control arm. The only things that attach to the control arm are:

sway bar end link #17
steering knuckle #24
the car

I think he may be referring to #15 link bushing pin.

There's no way that would break. At least I can't imagine that it would.

It's that greasy piece going through the middle in this pic:

No that's not it. Not sure what number it is on the diagram but the dealer calls it the stabilizer link.

stabilizer link = swaybar endlink # 17

Ya that's what I thought. Connecting rod on the diagram.

I had replaced this on my old 93 Max and I think it might be time for new ones on my 97. What do you guys think about the ebay control arms? I was told it's good to go with OE Nissan for these kinds of parts but the ebay ones don't look to shaby and are 1/3 of dealer price.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/Maxima...Z1QQsofocusZbs

I replaced the two of mine when I put on new energy suspension bushing's. The link ends only were around $50.00 for the set if I remember correctly.

Bumping this thread up because I didnt want to start a new thread about my question.

I bought a set of control arms off ebay and soon plan to replace mine but I havent done so yet because im worried that I will run into trouble trying to remove #15 link bushing pin from the old control arm to put in the new one because it may be rusted/seized in. Anyone remove this from a control arm before? Just want to know if I should just send the money to buy a new set instead of messing with the old ones.

HA HA HA HA!! You're a smart fella! When we (nick and I) did my LCAs last fall, we had one heck of a time removing one sides pin link bushing ~@#@#$!@# lots of profanity was called for We spent about a hour trying to get it out of the LCA... (drivers side)

However, the other side (passenger) just slid out so

Those pin links are NOT cheap - 35 bucks a side.

I know everyones going to say just heat it up, but you have to be careful since the pin link is aluminum and you don't want to warp it...

My recommendation (if you don't mind paying a little for peace of mind), is to order two, and if you end up not using them, just return them (you lose some shipping)... just make sure whoever you buy them from will let you return them. I would start by calling Dave Burnette (Garrands Nissan).

Cheers, and let me know if you have any questions about the whole LCA removal/reinstall.

Hey, thanks for the reply. That really helps to know that I might have some trouble with it. Did you ever end up getting the other one out? I was thinking about using a C-clamp if its stuck, seems like it would be able to break it loose. A little heat also shouldnt hurt the aluminum.

Ya we got both out. There is no way to get a C-clamp on it, but we rigged up the control arm in a huge vise and kept twisting/rotating it (or trying it)... eventually it came out, but the metal sleeve of the bushing was still stuck on it... so then we used a pipe-wrench to bite it and work it off... it was the hardest part of the job

Has some one used the ebay lower control arms here. I need a set in the next week or so. I would like to know if they are junk or what?

How do you know if you need new lower control arms?

The Ebay ones are fine. Many of us (myself included) have used these without any issues (so far).

Can you let us know what guy did you buy them from in ebay?

bestsuspension

Thanks man. I dont mean to bother you but what other parts do you recommend changiing while you are doing this job?

Planning on changing:
1 Lower Control Arm (Left) complete OE K9818L,
1 lower Control Arm (right) complete OE K9818R for Nissan Maxima 1995-99, Infiniti I30 94-99, includes bushings and ball joint,
2 Inner Tie rod end OE EV352,
2 Outer Tie rod end OE ES3438,
2 Sway bar link K90126.

Then an alignment!

^^^ Sounds like a good plan.

Also inspect and replace the swaybar bushings - the ebay guy may or may not have those.

I started on my control arms and #15 link bushing pin did give me a problem. I decided not to order another set because im tight on money. Im going to cut through the control arm, bushing and metal sleeve and then it should come right off.

Im also having a lot of trouble with removing the bolts that bolt the #15 link bushing pin to the body. I went and bought a 600ft/lbs max impact wrench and that still did not work. Anyone have any ideas?

You almost never will unless you jump a curb or something (read:bent the control arm). Both the control arm bushings and the balljoint are removable and replaceable so getting a brand new control arm makes virtually no sense as far as money is concerned.

Unless u need new ball-joints and dont have a press and it costs 400 bux get ball-joints done.....or u can buy control arms for 75 bux a side and replace them on a saturday afternoon

I replaced the balljoints on my dad's '95 without a press.

This is simply not the case. I have dropped my control arm, gotten a balljoint ($30.00), gotten it pressed in ($10.00) and re-installed.

30+10 != 400

i am just saying....now i have acces to a press so it would only cost me parts...but again most control arms come with new bushings too which is a plus....nismololgy howd u do it with out a press

Fixed...



I removed the snap ring and banged it out with a hammer. Then reversed the process for installation.

hmmmmmm.....hammers and ball-joints....ill use my friends press....but i still like the idea of new bushings with the new control arms....i figure teh cost of new bushings and the ball joint itself is worth the 75 alone....again thats me....Either way there are many cheaper options for the original poser to get his ball-joints replaced

What the hell? There's nothing wrong with using a hammer as long as you don't hammer the threaded portion on the new balljoint like a . Whatever, if creativity scares you, go with the "easier" option.


FYI, my method is the cheapest and works perfectly fine.

same here both sides this weekend

it worked fine but would be easier with a press .. now i have a swollen thumb

yup your right some people want to spend more money instead of the time to do it right. you can rent the seperators or ... a hammer .. many options and becarfull with whatever one you choose because it will cost money or time... its your choice and it is always easier to do any job with the right tool but what separates the rich folk from back yard mechanics is the ability to be inventive and come up with a solution in a pinch.

hammers pinch very well for most jobs... the french wrench as i call it..

and hey im part french..