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Got an error code: Vacuum cut valve bypass valve - anyone know what it means?

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Old 04-26-2001, 09:11 AM
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Well, my check engine light came on last night, just pulled the code and it's 0801 - Vacuum cut valve bypass valve. Anyone know what this means? Daniel B Martin or anyone? I don't want to drive my car with this crap, but i have class today too. hmmm

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-26-2001, 12:49 PM
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Originally posted by CKNY
Well, my check engine light came on last night, just pulled the code and it's 0801 - Vacuum cut valve bypass valve. Anyone know what this means? Daniel B Martin or anyone? I don't want to drive my car with this crap, but i have class today too. hmmm

Any help would be appreciated.
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0801 points to a problem with the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. The malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the Engine Control Module through the VCVBV. The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself. The VCVBV is located under the car, near the rear left tire. It is near the Evaporative Emission Canister but not mounted directly on it.

The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
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Old 04-26-2001, 01:02 PM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself.
Daniel - thank you for the informative response. Here's my question to you. This happened last night. Yesterday, I hooked up an amplifier and subwoofers. You mentioned it could be a defect with the wiring or electrical connector. Think my amp install could have triggered something? That seems really TOO coincidental. The only thing that could have been affected is anything wired to the positive battery terminal, as that's the only thing I touched with the wiring. There's a red connector on the positive terminal, could this have anything to do with the vaccum control valve?

Now, should the valve itself be broken, do you think this is something that can be replaced by a mild diy-er like me or should i take it to the dealer to be done?

Thanks so much!
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Old 04-26-2001, 01:17 PM
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Originally posted by CKNY
... Think my amp install could have triggered something? ...
I doubt it.

Now, should the valve itself be broken, do you think this is something that can be replaced by a mild diy-er like me or should i take it to the dealer to be done?
Do this yourself. It doesn't require any special tools. You will need a jack, a jackstand, and an assortment of ordinary hand tools.
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Old 04-26-2001, 01:19 PM
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Chris likes to play with HAND tools

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
I doubt it.

Do this yourself. It doesn't require any special tools. You will need a jack, a jackstand, and an assortment of ordinary hand tools.
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Old 04-26-2001, 07:52 PM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
I doubt it.

Do this yourself. It doesn't require any special tools. You will need a jack, a jackstand, and an assortment of ordinary hand tools.
GREAT! Ok, next question - do you know if the haynes or chilton manual have this procedure (or at least illustrations) as I have no idea what i'm looking for.
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Old 04-27-2001, 03:27 AM
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Originally posted by CKNY
GREAT! Ok, next question - do you know if the haynes or chilton manual have this procedure (or at least illustrations) as I have no idea what i'm looking for.
See Chilton, Figure 6, page 4-8.
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Old 04-27-2001, 06:52 AM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
See Chilton, Figure 6, page 4-8.
AWESOME - I lost my chiltons book so i'm gonna go pick another one up. Again, Daniel - you've saved the day. Hopefully I'll try to do that bench test on saturday.

Thanks again!!
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:01 AM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin

The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
Daniel, thanks to your help and the chiltons book I was able to identify the VCVBV. I'd like to remove it to perform the bench test you described. I'm not sure about the two hoses connected to it though. Can I just remove them or do I have to pinch them or something first, or do something else? The reason is I'm not sure if it's just air that passes through or actually fuel... I don't wantto remove a hose and have fuel shooting all over!! Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:11 AM
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...After about 2 seconds of thinking about it I realized that those hoses are air not fuel so I attempted to take the two hoses off but I could not get them off. Is there a special method of taking these vaccum hoses off?

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2001, 10:14 AM
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Do the twist!

Originally posted by CKNY
...After about 2 seconds of thinking about it I realized that those hoses are air not fuel so I attempted to take the two hoses off but I could not get them off. Is there a special method of taking these vaccum hoses off?

Thanks
A stuck-tight vacuum hose can usually be persuaded to come off by grabbing the end with a pair of ordinary pliers and twisting to rotate the hose 30-45 degrees. If this doesn't work you may resort to a sharp utility knife and slit the end of the hose lengthwise. This will require you to replace the hose. This is low-pressure hose which can be bought at any auto parts store for less than $1 per foot.
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Old 04-29-2001, 07:40 PM
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Re: Do the twist!

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
A stuck-tight vacuum hose can usually be persuaded to come off by grabbing the end with a pair of ordinary pliers and twisting to rotate the hose 30-45 degrees. If this doesn't work you may resort to a sharp utility knife and slit the end of the hose lengthwise. This will require you to replace the hose. This is low-pressure hose which can be bought at any auto parts store for less than $1 per foot.
I twisted better than even chubby checker and finally got them off using a plier. On tuesday I plan to do the bench test since class is done. I'll let you know what I come up with...
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