where to go from here?
where to go from here?
ok so i've got intake, headers, y, b pipe, hi flow cat, struts, springs, bars, camber kit, and some other misc. junk.
i want more power so where do i go from here?
I don't want a mevi or VI cuz i like my low end power, so what else can i do and still stay n/a
i want more power so where do i go from here?
I don't want a mevi or VI cuz i like my low end power, so what else can i do and still stay n/a
what blackmax kid said, other than that, thats about it unless you want to take out Power sterring to get more power, and other mods like that.
I'd say . . . SUPERCHARGE, I'm not a big fan of super chargers cause I hear of belts snapping all the time, but its soo much cheaper than Turbo, but Turbos are better (In my opinion)
I'd say . . . SUPERCHARGE, I'm not a big fan of super chargers cause I hear of belts snapping all the time, but its soo much cheaper than Turbo, but Turbos are better (In my opinion)
UDP would brng out some mroe powa.
They only other intake manifold option you have is to polish it, it might free up alittle air flow.
00 vi doesnt loose much low end but its a P.I.T.A. to install from what ive read.
They only other intake manifold option you have is to polish it, it might free up alittle air flow.
00 vi doesnt loose much low end but its a P.I.T.A. to install from what ive read.
Originally Posted by dmBK
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Posts: n/a
I don't think its the serpentine belt per say. From what I heard, the s/c pulley is made out of plastic. Also the s/c install manual says about stock belt tensioner pulley being known to melt. Anyone of these goes and there goes the belt too. Get a good aftermarket metal s/c pulley and aluminum belt tensioner pulley and you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
Originally Posted by MDeezy
what blackmax kid said, other than that, thats about it unless you want to take out Power sterring to get more power, and other mods like that.
I'd say . . . SUPERCHARGE, I'm not a big fan of super chargers cause I hear of belts snapping all the time, but its soo much cheaper than Turbo, but Turbos are better (In my opinion)
I'd say . . . SUPERCHARGE, I'm not a big fan of super chargers cause I hear of belts snapping all the time, but its soo much cheaper than Turbo, but Turbos are better (In my opinion)
I haven't been following any of the ECU discussions but I read from the sticky to avoid JET ECU. What is highly recommended then for NA application? I vaguely remember seeing something about Technosquare somewhere.
Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
ECU hands down, you wont find any better and easier NA power.
JWT ECU or Technosquare ECU. If you want to get a MEVI go JWT.
I saw the best gains of any mod when I went JWT ECU.
BTW, did you happen to notice/dyno the gains from the headers?
I saw the best gains of any mod when I went JWT ECU.
BTW, did you happen to notice/dyno the gains from the headers?
Originally Posted by MDeezy
what blackmax kid said, other than that, thats about it unless you want to take out Power sterring to get more power, and other mods like that.
I'd say . . . SUPERCHARGE, I'm not a big fan of super chargers cause I hear of belts snapping all the time, but its soo much cheaper than Turbo, but Turbos are better (In my opinion)
I'd say . . . SUPERCHARGE, I'm not a big fan of super chargers cause I hear of belts snapping all the time, but its soo much cheaper than Turbo, but Turbos are better (In my opinion)
Originally Posted by CarbonDreams95
spaniard: i haven't had the chance to put the headers on as of yet but maybe i'll run a dyno before and after and if so i'll post the results
Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
ECU hands down, you wont find any better and easier NA power.
BWAHAHAHAHHAHA
You can run a 75shot dry.. (i hate dry, but its cheap) for 1/2 the cost of an ECU...
Nitrous is by far the cheapest way to go fast......
Lightened flywheel frees up engine weight and therefore horsepower.
UDP is a must.
ECU is $550 ... not bad for ~20HP ... don't you guys know what Audi guys pay for mods? How's $1200 for downpipes only???
Lighter wheels. Mazda Millenia 16" stock wheels are 15lb each I think (for example).
CF hood/trunk lid. These parts allow you to keep your spare/jack/passenger seat, etc while saving weight. i.e. more practical than driving around without all that stuff
STS - If you have a 5MT, this is "virtual" horsepower. Shorter throws mean faster shifts which means faster times.
UDP is a must.
ECU is $550 ... not bad for ~20HP ... don't you guys know what Audi guys pay for mods? How's $1200 for downpipes only???
Lighter wheels. Mazda Millenia 16" stock wheels are 15lb each I think (for example).
CF hood/trunk lid. These parts allow you to keep your spare/jack/passenger seat, etc while saving weight. i.e. more practical than driving around without all that stuff
STS - If you have a 5MT, this is "virtual" horsepower. Shorter throws mean faster shifts which means faster times.
I agree on the ECU, however I called Technosquare the other day and asked for an ecu upgrade for my 96 Maxima. The lady told me they stopped making ecu's for Maxima's.

To the guy that said to get nitrous - he said the he want's to stay n/a
-Paul

To the guy that said to get nitrous - he said the he want's to stay n/a
-Paul
Originally Posted by Spaniard
JWT ECU or Technosquare ECU. If you want to get a MEVI go JWT.
I saw the best gains of any mod when I went JWT ECU.
BTW, did you happen to notice/dyno the gains from the headers?
I saw the best gains of any mod when I went JWT ECU.
BTW, did you happen to notice/dyno the gains from the headers?
10 char
Originally Posted by baughb
BWAHAHAHAHHAHA
You can run a 75shot dry.. (i hate dry, but its cheap) for 1/2 the cost of an ECU...
Nitrous is by far the cheapest way to go fast......
You can run a 75shot dry.. (i hate dry, but its cheap) for 1/2 the cost of an ECU...
Nitrous is by far the cheapest way to go fast......
Originally Posted by Big_Ham
Lightened flywheel frees up engine weight and therefore horsepower.
UDP is a must.
ECU is $550 ... not bad for ~20HP ... don't you guys know what Audi guys pay for mods? How's $1200 for downpipes only???
Lighter wheels. Mazda Millenia 16" stock wheels are 15lb each I think (for example).
CF hood/trunk lid. These parts allow you to keep your spare/jack/passenger seat, etc while saving weight. i.e. more practical than driving around without all that stuff
STS - If you have a 5MT, this is "virtual" horsepower. Shorter throws mean faster shifts which means faster times.
UDP is a must.
ECU is $550 ... not bad for ~20HP ... don't you guys know what Audi guys pay for mods? How's $1200 for downpipes only???
Lighter wheels. Mazda Millenia 16" stock wheels are 15lb each I think (for example).
CF hood/trunk lid. These parts allow you to keep your spare/jack/passenger seat, etc while saving weight. i.e. more practical than driving around without all that stuff
STS - If you have a 5MT, this is "virtual" horsepower. Shorter throws mean faster shifts which means faster times.
ECU is more along the lines of 10-15
The millenia rims are 15's and 11lbs. But ugly as hell and the offset is really bad. Could never run them on a daily basis, plus they are only 6" wide. Good track rims but that is about it.
If a person knows how to shift quickly and correctly then a a STS is not going to make you faster.
I think you got the rest of it right though
The weight to HP ratio at his level... CF stuff isn't going to make him "faster", nor are the wheels.... Granted you get less rotating mass w/ the wheels.. but nothing serious.
And I do think he said power..... weight reduction sure as heck isnt to get him numbers on a dyno
My .02
And I do think he said power..... weight reduction sure as heck isnt to get him numbers on a dyno
My .02
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
UDP is not a must and is a waste of money for the most part
ECU is more along the lines of 10-15
The millenia rims are 15's and 11lbs. But ugly as hell and the offset is really bad. Could never run them on a daily basis, plus they are only 6" wide. Good track rims but that is about it.
If a person knows how to shift quickly and correctly then a a STS is not going to make you faster.
I think you got the rest of it right though
ECU is more along the lines of 10-15
The millenia rims are 15's and 11lbs. But ugly as hell and the offset is really bad. Could never run them on a daily basis, plus they are only 6" wide. Good track rims but that is about it.
If a person knows how to shift quickly and correctly then a a STS is not going to make you faster.
I think you got the rest of it right though
ECU HP ... that's my bad, no research - was trying to recall from the top of my head.
Milennia rims were only for an example. They're simply FUGLY, but the weight difference is even greater than I thought which means that he would gain even more on the strip. There are many other 16" - 17" wheels you can get that are very light (SSR Comps come to mind) that aren't fugly.
STS will DEFINITELY help ANYONE get faster times. I don't care how fast or perfect you think you shift with the stock p/u truck shifter. If you reduce the throw at all, that makes for a faster perfect shift. Again, physics.
Originally Posted by baughb
The weight to HP ratio at his level... CF stuff isn't going to make him "faster", nor are the wheels.... Granted you get less rotating mass w/ the wheels.. but nothing serious.
And I do think he said power..... weight reduction sure as heck isnt to get him numbers on a dyno
My .02
And I do think he said power..... weight reduction sure as heck isnt to get him numbers on a dyno
My .02
That said, the CF stuff will help him be faster. The lighter rims will also help him be faster, and perhaps more than the CF stuff. As you point out, you are lowering the rotating mass of the wheel, this is probably going to be MORE beneficial than the weight saved with CF body parts, depending on the weight of the rim.
See the tire and wheel weight section of SteVTEC's article here.
udp is paper weight(but an option)
flywheel if 5 speed
vb mod if auto
pathfinder throttlebody mod
jwt or ts ecu
mevi
cams
since you did suspension did u do mzmtg's rear strut mounts
upgrade clutch kit(again if 5 speed)
oil and/or trans cooler kit
i'll try to think of more ways to spend ur money
flywheel if 5 speed
vb mod if auto
pathfinder throttlebody mod
jwt or ts ecu
mevi
cams
since you did suspension did u do mzmtg's rear strut mounts
upgrade clutch kit(again if 5 speed)
oil and/or trans cooler kit
i'll try to think of more ways to spend ur money
Originally Posted by Big_Ham
If you want to go faster and remain N/A, the UDP is a good mod. According to any physics book, it works.
Cliff notes: waste of $$
I think it's important to revert back to what I heard someone said in one of these types of threads (I did a quick search, so I can't give proper credit where it's due), but it is important not to think of this bolt on by bolt on. You should have a finite end idea of where you want your car to go. Any and every mod helps no matter how much or how little. All mods compound to equal one great modification. Cat-back will not benefit you as greatly on it's own as it does when teamed with a Y-Pipe. This is not to say the mod is worthless on its own, but certainly the best gains will not be seen until the whole exhaust is done. You can put a SC on a totally stock car and not see near the gains you will once you get a full exhaust.
That said, you admit the UDP has gains. That's all I was saying. Is it a waste of money? I don't think so if you're looking for that extra nose lead on the car you're racing in the 1/4 mi. Is it practical for everyone to get? Certainly not. I'm not praising it for adding 10HP, because it won't ... but every little bit counts.
So many h8ers on this board. Everytime I come back to the .org after taking a break, it makes me have more respect for those who don't take a break and still come back day after day. So many people making generalized statements with nothing to back it up ... why not post some links to other threads where it was spoken about intelligibly, or speak intelligibly about it yourself. Don't just say "waste of money for the most part". It is either a waste of money or it isn't ... there is no "for the most part".
That said, you admit the UDP has gains. That's all I was saying. Is it a waste of money? I don't think so if you're looking for that extra nose lead on the car you're racing in the 1/4 mi. Is it practical for everyone to get? Certainly not. I'm not praising it for adding 10HP, because it won't ... but every little bit counts.
So many h8ers on this board. Everytime I come back to the .org after taking a break, it makes me have more respect for those who don't take a break and still come back day after day. So many people making generalized statements with nothing to back it up ... why not post some links to other threads where it was spoken about intelligibly, or speak intelligibly about it yourself. Don't just say "waste of money for the most part". It is either a waste of money or it isn't ... there is no "for the most part".
Originally Posted by Big_Ham
I think it's important to revert back to what I heard someone said in one of these types of threads (I did a quick search, so I can't give proper credit where it's due), but it is important not to think of this bolt on by bolt on. You should have a finite end idea of where you want your car to go. Any and every mod helps no matter how much or how little. All mods compound to equal one great modification. Cat-back will not benefit you as greatly on it's own as it does when teamed with a Y-Pipe. This is not to say the mod is worthless on its own, but certainly the best gains will not be seen until the whole exhaust is done. You can put a SC on a totally stock car and not see near the gains you will once you get a full exhaust.
That said, you admit the UDP has gains. That's all I was saying. Is it a waste of money? I don't think so if you're looking for that extra nose lead on the car you're racing in the 1/4 mi. Is it practical for everyone to get? Certainly not. I'm not praising it for adding 10HP, because it won't ... but every little bit counts.
So many h8ers on this board. Everytime I come back to the .org after taking a break, it makes me have more respect for those who don't take a break and still come back day after day. So many people making generalized statements with nothing to back it up ... why not post some links to other threads where it was spoken about intelligibly, or speak intelligibly about it yourself. Don't just say "waste of money for the most part". It is either a waste of money or it isn't ... there is no "for the most part".
That said, you admit the UDP has gains. That's all I was saying. Is it a waste of money? I don't think so if you're looking for that extra nose lead on the car you're racing in the 1/4 mi. Is it practical for everyone to get? Certainly not. I'm not praising it for adding 10HP, because it won't ... but every little bit counts.
So many h8ers on this board. Everytime I come back to the .org after taking a break, it makes me have more respect for those who don't take a break and still come back day after day. So many people making generalized statements with nothing to back it up ... why not post some links to other threads where it was spoken about intelligibly, or speak intelligibly about it yourself. Don't just say "waste of money for the most part". It is either a waste of money or it isn't ... there is no "for the most part".
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....&highlight=UDP
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....&highlight=UDP
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....&highlight=UDP
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ight=STS+1%2F4
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ight=STS+1%2F4
Wow, a moderator with attitude. A great way to make this board productive.
Those links provided nothing definitive. Physics still stands. Just because one guy couldn't get faster times (with a notchy B&M shifter) doesn't mean STS isn't effective. It means the B&M shifter, if notchy, isn't effective. Additionally, just because one guy's car didn't run any faster in the 1/4 with the UDP than without, doesn't mean it makes no difference with every car/driver, etc. I'll stick with physics.
Thanks for being abrasive and a smart***. You are supposed to be someone people can look up to here.
Those links provided nothing definitive. Physics still stands. Just because one guy couldn't get faster times (with a notchy B&M shifter) doesn't mean STS isn't effective. It means the B&M shifter, if notchy, isn't effective. Additionally, just because one guy's car didn't run any faster in the 1/4 with the UDP than without, doesn't mean it makes no difference with every car/driver, etc. I'll stick with physics.
Thanks for being abrasive and a smart***. You are supposed to be someone people can look up to here.




its cheaper than turbo or superchargers.
