sprint/agx sucks...
02-07-2005, 08:43 PM
#1
sprint/agx sucks...
i must say this suspension setup sucks monkey *****. I just installed es bushings, and got my car aligned, but the suspension travel isnt there. If i take a turn too fast, i feel the frontend bottom out. This is with the AGX set to full stiff all around. During normal highway, and crusing the suspension feels comfortable. The looks are awsome from this suspension setup. Anyways.. it's time to get true coilovers...
02-07-2005, 10:00 PM
#5
OMFG sorry Al but Luke is dead on! Words to live by.
Anyhow I'm working on a shortened front strut set up. It uses the stock housings with Koni inserts from a 3rd gen that are already 1.5" shorter. Then you can trim the bottom where the bolt thread is but you will have to secure the insert in the housing by another means (ie: welding). All in all this should be good for about 2-3" more travel!
Anyhow I'm working on a shortened front strut set up. It uses the stock housings with Koni inserts from a 3rd gen that are already 1.5" shorter. Then you can trim the bottom where the bolt thread is but you will have to secure the insert in the housing by another means (ie: welding). All in all this should be good for about 2-3" more travel!
02-07-2005, 10:24 PM
#6
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
i must say this suspension setup sucks monkey *****. I just installed es bushings, and got my car aligned, but the suspension travel isnt there. If i take a turn too fast, i feel the frontend bottom out. This is with the AGX set to full stiff all around. During normal highway, and crusing the suspension feels comfortable. The looks are awsome from this suspension setup. Anyways.. it's time to get true coilovers...
I should've went straight to true coilovers instead of all these spring setups
02-08-2005, 05:06 AM
#11
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
i must say this suspension setup sucks monkey *****. I just installed es bushings, and got my car aligned, but the suspension travel isnt there. If i take a turn too fast, i feel the frontend bottom out. This is with the AGX set to full stiff all around. During normal highway, and crusing the suspension feels comfortable. The looks are awsome from this suspension setup. Anyways.. it's time to get true coilovers...
02-08-2005, 05:11 AM
#14
Originally Posted by deezo
You mean the bushing problem? 
I believe his ride will be a lot better with the Toks.
I believe his ride will be a lot better with the Toks.
02-08-2005, 05:12 AM
#15
Originally Posted by mzmtg
I mean his bottoming out problem. The smoothest shocks in the world wont help if you crash into the bumpstops at every ripple in the pavement.
02-08-2005, 05:24 AM
#16
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 193
I have a bone stock 99gxe 60,000 miles. I have 2000 SE 17's (no tires yet). Before I put them on, I want KYB/AGX struts with springs that I havent decided on yet. My question is this, I put around 25-30,000 miles on a car annually and I want a suspension setup that I wont have to muck with again, can anyone tell me what the best suspension is longevity-wise? I dont want to have to do another suspension overhaul at 120,000 plus. Also, does having an overall stiffer suspension wear out other parts faster, like bushings, tie rod ends, etc?
Thanks yall
Thanks yall
02-08-2005, 06:06 AM
#17
Originally Posted by passEMonTHErite
I have a bone stock 99gxe 60,000 miles. I have 2000 SE 17's (no tires yet). Before I put them on, I want KYB/AGX struts with springs that I havent decided on yet. My question is this, I put around 25-30,000 miles on a car annually and I want a suspension setup that I wont have to muck with again, can anyone tell me what the best suspension is longevity-wise? I dont want to have to do another suspension overhaul at 120,000 plus. Also, does having an overall stiffer suspension wear out other parts faster, like bushings, tie rod ends, etc?
Thanks yall
Thanks yall
02-08-2005, 06:20 AM
#18
I'm on the full tokico setup, illumina's with tokico springs. I think this is the best setup (for springs/shocks) at least cause the springs and shocks were made for each other like coilover setups. I drive VERY aggressively and i've never bottomed out my springs. But this is prob. due to the fact that the drop isn't "slammed" as some ppl like with his setup. Its also considerably cheaper than a good coilover setup. So for the occasional autocross and EVERYDAY agressive driver, i'd recommend going this route, but if u have the cash theres no substitution for a good coilover. Also i've notice on this illumina's the best handling setting is either 3/4 of 4/5 as opposed to 5/5 like u would think, i think its cause the extra front weight bias of our car. The engine keeps the front struts loaded while the rears have to be "artificially" stiffened up.
02-08-2005, 07:17 AM
#19
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 193
Originally Posted by deezo
You won't want the AGX's then. I had them and they are super stiff compared to the Illuminas.
02-08-2005, 07:22 AM
#20
Originally Posted by passEMonTHErite
So does that mean they would wear out quicker, or they would wear out other parts quicker?
02-08-2005, 07:27 AM
#21
Originally Posted by mzmtg
Not necessarily. There's not enough difference between, say, AGXs and Illuminas to guess that one would be more durable than the other.
passEMonTHErite : You will feel the difference in ride quality, that's for sure.
02-08-2005, 08:53 AM
#24
Correct me if I'm wrong but shocks wear out depending on spring height and stiffness. The shorter the springs, the less travel you get from the shocks, and the shorter the shock life is going to be. Also, I think road conditions affect them. If you drive over bad roads most of the time, the shocks won't last you as long. As for stiffer setups wearing suspension parts faster, I think once you put in a non-OEM replacement part, it affects the entire system differently. Probably more bad than good as a trade-off for better handling and such. But if you go all out and change/upgrade all bushings in your suspension since these are the only parts that wear out besides the shocks and springs, then you shouldn't worry. ES bushings are your friend.
I'd like to share this info I got from an SR20 forum, they were talking about the difference between coilovers, progressive, and linear springs:
I'd like to share this info I got from an SR20 forum, they were talking about the difference between coilovers, progressive, and linear springs:
Spring rate is the amount of force it takes to compress the spring 1 inch. a 200 lb rate spring means it takes 200 lbs to compress the spring 1 inch.
Progressive rate. These are what typical lowering springs are. If you look at them, you'll notice the spring is not a perfect cylider, but perhaps a bit conical in shape. The bottom of the spring is usually the "soft" part, with the top of the spring the "hard" part. As the suspension compresses, the soft part of the spring compresses first, the as cornering loads increase, it "progresses" into the higher rate section of the spring. A typical lowering spring might start off at 110 lbs/in, but finish at 180 lbs/in. So, in the first, say, inch of travel, it only takes 110 lbs to compress this spring 1 inch. Over the 2nd inch of travel, it takes another 180 lbs to compress this spring another inch.
Linear rate. There are no funky shapes or anything to produce different rates as the spring compresses. If you get a GC 300 lbs/in spring, it takes 300 lbs to compress it the first inch. It takes another 300lbs to compress it a second inch. And so on....
So, IMO, linear rate springs are superior for performance driving because the spring is not changing rates as the suspension compresses. But, progressive rate springs are typically better for street driving because when you hit a bump, you're using the "soft" part of the spring whereas on a 300 lbs/in linear spring, you just jarred 2 fillings loose.
Progressive rate. These are what typical lowering springs are. If you look at them, you'll notice the spring is not a perfect cylider, but perhaps a bit conical in shape. The bottom of the spring is usually the "soft" part, with the top of the spring the "hard" part. As the suspension compresses, the soft part of the spring compresses first, the as cornering loads increase, it "progresses" into the higher rate section of the spring. A typical lowering spring might start off at 110 lbs/in, but finish at 180 lbs/in. So, in the first, say, inch of travel, it only takes 110 lbs to compress this spring 1 inch. Over the 2nd inch of travel, it takes another 180 lbs to compress this spring another inch.
Linear rate. There are no funky shapes or anything to produce different rates as the spring compresses. If you get a GC 300 lbs/in spring, it takes 300 lbs to compress it the first inch. It takes another 300lbs to compress it a second inch. And so on....
So, IMO, linear rate springs are superior for performance driving because the spring is not changing rates as the suspension compresses. But, progressive rate springs are typically better for street driving because when you hit a bump, you're using the "soft" part of the spring whereas on a 300 lbs/in linear spring, you just jarred 2 fillings loose.
02-08-2005, 08:56 AM
#25
Originally Posted by optimus310
well you have been riding on sprints for years. They do tend to compress after a couple of years.
Which coil overs you getting?
Which coil overs you getting?
02-08-2005, 09:02 AM
#27
I'd say depending on how old you car is and the condition of your current bushings by visually inspecting them, then you'll know if you need them. Older cars like ours tend to have a few bushings going out due to wear and tear. With stiffer setups, ie: coilovers, I'd say new bushings are a must. Of course, everthing has a price tag. Usually doing everything right the first time is a little expensive then just getting what you want and ignoring the rest for the time being.
Originally Posted by Maximized Jiggs
So should we get new bushings along with new struts and springs?
02-08-2005, 09:27 AM
#28
D2's have some build issues. Sprints would be horrible if the roads in your area suck. Back home in Ottawa the roads were very smooth in general so i loved my Sprint/AGX setup. Down in London, some of the roads are pretty bad so i have to go slow over them because then you will hit the bumpstops quite a bit.
LEMAR
LEMAR
02-08-2005, 10:14 AM
#30
Originally Posted by TonyGotSkilz
I'm on the full tokico setup, illumina's with tokico springs. I think this is the best setup (for springs/shocks) at least cause the springs and shocks were made for each other like coilover setups. I drive VERY aggressively and i've never bottomed out my springs. But this is prob. due to the fact that the drop isn't "slammed" as some ppl like with his setup. Its also considerably cheaper than a good coilover setup. So for the occasional autocross and EVERYDAY agressive driver, i'd recommend going this route, but if u have the cash theres no substitution for a good coilover. Also i've notice on this illumina's the best handling setting is either 3/4 of 4/5 as opposed to 5/5 like u would think, i think its cause the extra front weight bias of our car. The engine keeps the front struts loaded while the rears have to be "artificially" stiffened up.
couldnt have said it better myself..
02-08-2005, 10:27 AM
#31
Originally Posted by mzmtg
Illuminas won't solve his problem.
02-08-2005, 10:32 AM
#32
Look in here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....5&page=9&pp=30 . Look at the Front control arm set, Front sway bar frame set, and Front lower subframe set. The prices were introductory, hit up Cattman for recent price. The bushings aren't costly, but the labor is going to be PITA IMO. I'm going to get the bushings replaced on mine first before doing any more suspension mods.
Originally Posted by Maximized Jiggs
How much do the bushings go for?
02-08-2005, 10:45 AM
#33
Originally Posted by MaximaRider
Seems to have solved my problem, i scrapped my front two agx's and replaced them with illuminas, granted I still have barely any travel it rides a lot smoother than with that busted *** AGX. And yes I bet my sprint springs have compressed over the years, just need it to last another year or so.
02-08-2005, 11:36 AM
#38
It's pretty much accepted around the Org that Illuminas are superior in terms of durability when compared to the KYB AGX. Many people have had their rears blow on them, so 1FSTMAX is just the most recent victim.
GTR and Tony, I agree except instead of the Tokico springs I went with TEIN High Techs, which are similar but have a larger F/R drop differential, which was important to me because I have a 5-speed and didn't want the front to sit high. (Most aftermarket Maxima springs seem to be designed for autos since most Maximas are autos). The drop is 1.6" front and 1.2" rear, and honestly, I wish the front drop was even lower. They are good springs though, but I haven't ever driven on the Tokico springs so I have no firsthand basis for comparison. I usually have my Illuminas on 3/4 or 4/5, but in late fall I started to get unhappy with the ride. It took me too long to realize it was just the cold temperatures. I put them on 1/1 and finally the car felt comfortable again.
GTR and Tony, I agree except instead of the Tokico springs I went with TEIN High Techs, which are similar but have a larger F/R drop differential, which was important to me because I have a 5-speed and didn't want the front to sit high. (Most aftermarket Maxima springs seem to be designed for autos since most Maximas are autos). The drop is 1.6" front and 1.2" rear, and honestly, I wish the front drop was even lower. They are good springs though, but I haven't ever driven on the Tokico springs so I have no firsthand basis for comparison. I usually have my Illuminas on 3/4 or 4/5, but in late fall I started to get unhappy with the ride. It took me too long to realize it was just the cold temperatures. I put them on 1/1 and finally the car felt comfortable again.
