Balljoints - where do you buy them?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,066
From: San Diego
Balljoints - where do you buy them?
looking for driver side balljoint, I think Autozone and Pepboys sell them , but I am looking for OEM Nissan quality.
Thanks
Nick.
Thanks
Nick.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,066
From: San Diego
dang, anybody else?
Nick.
Nick.
Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
Moog or TRW...
When I got my Moog ones they were made in Japan....... problem is Moog's plant in TN burned down last year
When I got my Moog ones they were made in Japan....... problem is Moog's plant in TN burned down last year

i bought complete control arms with the ball joints already pressed in off of ebay.
saved me the hassle of having any shop install anything. Plus the control arms came with brand new rubber bushings.
Payed $120 for both driver and passenger side. Box said "OE Brand".
saved me the hassle of having any shop install anything. Plus the control arms came with brand new rubber bushings.
Payed $120 for both driver and passenger side. Box said "OE Brand".
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Originally Posted by a_prince1
i bought complete control arms with the ball joints already pressed in off of ebay.
saved me the hassle of having any shop install anything. Plus the control arms came with brand new rubber bushings.
Payed $120 for both driver and passenger side. Box said "OE Brand".
saved me the hassle of having any shop install anything. Plus the control arms came with brand new rubber bushings.
Payed $120 for both driver and passenger side. Box said "OE Brand".
Balljoints never come out right. Change the entire control arm. Trust the old guy. Its not worth the hassle.
You can get a good deal at www.pinnaclenissan.com.
Or aftermarkets. They last as long as you spend more than $30 on control arms (which someone on here swore he paid)
I keep a spare set. I've been going through balljoints and Axles like crazy these past 3 years.
You can get a good deal at www.pinnaclenissan.com.
Or aftermarkets. They last as long as you spend more than $30 on control arms (which someone on here swore he paid)
I keep a spare set. I've been going through balljoints and Axles like crazy these past 3 years.
Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
Balljoints never come out right. Change the entire control arm. Trust the old guy. Its not worth the hassle.

Can you elaborate on that? The balljoint is pressed in and held by a large circlip from the factory. When you press out the old balljoint and press in a new replacement balljoint its seated flush with the large circlip in place, just like before.
It seems easy and straightforward. Until you try and replace it. When a balljoint fails it generates heat. Heat makes the housing warp. Then the entire thing becomes loose. Once the old joint is taken out, the hole is seldom perfectly round.
The new joint is round. The hole isnt. Its a chance.
Even Nissan recommends against replacing ball joints, apparently, which is why they dont sell them.
The new joint is round. The hole isnt. Its a chance.
Even Nissan recommends against replacing ball joints, apparently, which is why they dont sell them.
Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
It seems easy and straightforward. Until you try and replace it. When a balljoint fails it generates heat. Heat makes the housing warp. Then the entire thing becomes loose. Once the old joint is taken out, the hole is seldom perfectly round.
The new joint is round. The hole isnt. Its a chance.
Even Nissan recommends against replacing ball joints, apparently, which is why they dont sell them.
The new joint is round. The hole isnt. Its a chance.
Even Nissan recommends against replacing ball joints, apparently, which is why they dont sell them.
Replacement parts is big business for Car manufacturers. A Nissan Maxima steering rack costs more than an E36 BMW's rack. If you need to replace the large end bushing on the LCA Nissan does not offer off the shelf replacements. You have to buy the entire control arm? Why? All you need is a mallet and bang on the large bushing to come off the shaft. On older Honda Civics the LCA bushings are avaiable off the shelf for replacement. They are strange shaped members too. Why isn't that bushing available for our car when its so easy to remove and replace? All speculation.
For the price of a new LCA from a discount online dealer I'd rather spend an additional $25 and replace the balljoints on BOTH sides and the stock rubber bushings with Energy suspension bushings at a shop. $60 (2 balljoints) +30 (ES bushing set)+ $75 for a shop to press in both balljoints and ES bushings. Save on that $75 if you use an extra large bench Vise Grip + hammer and large sockets for the balljoint install yourself and a hacksaw for the LCA metal sleeve.
If replacing these balljoints is a genuine safety issue I dont think Mcquay-Norris/Moog/Chicago Rawhide/TRW etc etc would not have them available for retail purchase and expose themselves to the liability.
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