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Balljoints - where do you buy them?

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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 03:12 PM
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Balljoints - where do you buy them?

looking for driver side balljoint, I think Autozone and Pepboys sell them , but I am looking for OEM Nissan quality.

Thanks

Nick.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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does Energy suspension make some? i could be wrong
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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Moog or TRW...

When I got my Moog ones they were made in Japan....... problem is Moog's plant in TN burned down last year
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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dang, anybody else?

Nick.


Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
Moog or TRW...

When I got my Moog ones they were made in Japan....... problem is Moog's plant in TN burned down last year
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 05:38 PM
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i bought complete control arms with the ball joints already pressed in off of ebay.
saved me the hassle of having any shop install anything. Plus the control arms came with brand new rubber bushings.
Payed $120 for both driver and passenger side. Box said "OE Brand".
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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Click on the link in my sig. I bought balljoints from them and had them pressed into my LCA at the same time the ES bushings were installed.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 06:51 PM
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eturnl
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Originally Posted by a_prince1
i bought complete control arms with the ball joints already pressed in off of ebay.
saved me the hassle of having any shop install anything. Plus the control arms came with brand new rubber bushings.
Payed $120 for both driver and passenger side. Box said "OE Brand".
did you notice a major difference in ride quality after all this? im thinking of changing mine...
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 07:04 PM
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Balljoints never come out right. Change the entire control arm. Trust the old guy. Its not worth the hassle.

You can get a good deal at www.pinnaclenissan.com.

Or aftermarkets. They last as long as you spend more than $30 on control arms (which someone on here swore he paid)

I keep a spare set. I've been going through balljoints and Axles like crazy these past 3 years.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
Balljoints never come out right. Change the entire control arm. Trust the old guy. Its not worth the hassle.


Can you elaborate on that? The balljoint is pressed in and held by a large circlip from the factory. When you press out the old balljoint and press in a new replacement balljoint its seated flush with the large circlip in place, just like before.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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It seems easy and straightforward. Until you try and replace it. When a balljoint fails it generates heat. Heat makes the housing warp. Then the entire thing becomes loose. Once the old joint is taken out, the hole is seldom perfectly round.

The new joint is round. The hole isnt. Its a chance.

Even Nissan recommends against replacing ball joints, apparently, which is why they dont sell them.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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thanks a lot for that link , $141 for LCA thats a very good price !!!!

Nick.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
It seems easy and straightforward. Until you try and replace it. When a balljoint fails it generates heat. Heat makes the housing warp. Then the entire thing becomes loose. Once the old joint is taken out, the hole is seldom perfectly round.

The new joint is round. The hole isnt. Its a chance.


Even Nissan recommends against replacing ball joints, apparently, which is why they dont sell them.
If the old balljoints need to be presed out and the new balljoints need to be pressed in, then the balljoint is not loose in the hole. The hole has a better chance of being warped by heat generated by braking which is still by a longshot. And the balljoint itself will not work itself loose from the LCA once its properly installed with the circlip in place; the new functioning balljoint will do all the pivoting. Even worn balljoints will still pivot, but now with play. Seldom you find anyone that had their balljoint body work themselves out of the suspension piece they are installed (LCA for our cars, steering knuckles for double wishbone front suspension Hondas, etc). If it will warp due to heat generated by a failed balljoint and cause the balljoint body to work itself loose from the hole, you'd think Nissan would have the balljoint stamped into the LCA or tack welded in place so it cannot be removed at all. If you had problems with your replacement balljoints due to warped holes or whatever then it sounds more like a a removal and/or installation error on your part to me.

Replacement parts is big business for Car manufacturers. A Nissan Maxima steering rack costs more than an E36 BMW's rack. If you need to replace the large end bushing on the LCA Nissan does not offer off the shelf replacements. You have to buy the entire control arm? Why? All you need is a mallet and bang on the large bushing to come off the shaft. On older Honda Civics the LCA bushings are avaiable off the shelf for replacement. They are strange shaped members too. Why isn't that bushing available for our car when its so easy to remove and replace? All speculation.

For the price of a new LCA from a discount online dealer I'd rather spend an additional $25 and replace the balljoints on BOTH sides and the stock rubber bushings with Energy suspension bushings at a shop. $60 (2 balljoints) +30 (ES bushing set)+ $75 for a shop to press in both balljoints and ES bushings. Save on that $75 if you use an extra large bench Vise Grip + hammer and large sockets for the balljoint install yourself and a hacksaw for the LCA metal sleeve.

If replacing these balljoints is a genuine safety issue I dont think Mcquay-Norris/Moog/Chicago Rawhide/TRW etc etc would not have them available for retail purchase and expose themselves to the liability.
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