Car Idling rough after clutch install
03-11-2005, 03:56 PM
#1
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Car Idling rough after clutch install
I have a 95SE and my car was running great before I took my tranny out. I replaced the clutch and now it idles kinda rough at low rpm. It seems to be most noticeable at 1k rpm. Anyone have any problems like this? Thanks.
03-11-2005, 07:49 PM
#4
If you tried to start the car with your MAF disconnected..you need to do a full reset on your ECU or it will run like poop. Disconnect your NEG terminal overnight on the battery. That will fix the MAF reset problem.
03-11-2005, 11:14 PM
#6
Originally Posted by krue92
I have a 95SE and my car was running great before I took my tranny out. I replaced the clutch and now it idles kinda rough at low rpm. It seems to be most noticeable at 1k rpm. Anyone have any problems like this? Thanks.
I have the same exact thing! ????? I just had a tranny and clutch overhaul. I notice the car has a shake now between 800-1000 RPMs, but at 700 RPMs it smooths out. What the hell is causing this? It's annoying, my car shakes like 92 Geo.
03-12-2005, 02:27 AM
#7
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was the flywheel resurfaced? even if it was, in my experience, shops sometimes machine them wrong and actually warp them slightly...I know mine is...do your clutch pedals feel grindy? or gritty when letting them out instead of buttery smooth? or does the clutch not grab as well as expected/chirp tires on a really hard, fast shift into 2nd from 1st gear at redline?
03-12-2005, 06:53 AM
#9
The only way I know of to tell if a MAF is shot is to hook up a CONSULT or other diagnostic tool that gives you the voltage output of the MAF sensor. Once you have that data then you can compare what you have to what should be in the FSM.
03-12-2005, 09:16 AM
#10
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The clutch feels fine. It grabs great to me. The clutch pedal feels real smooth and everything else is great. It just idles rought at low rpm. And if you rev is up to like 5k on the way back down at about 1k you can see the shake of the motor.
03-12-2005, 09:22 AM
#11
Originally Posted by michaelnyden
was the flywheel resurfaced? even if it was, in my experience, shops sometimes machine them wrong and actually warp them slightly...I know mine is...do your clutch pedals feel grindy? or gritty when letting them out instead of buttery smooth? or does the clutch not grab as well as expected/chirp tires on a really hard, fast shift into 2nd from 1st gear at redline?
The shop did resurface the flywheel or the pressure plate. The pedal feels really good and I have not tried to chirp the tires just yet. I'll see what the shop says this week.
03-12-2005, 09:24 AM
#12
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Let me know what you find out. I did the clutch install all myself, but I had the flywheel surfaced. It looked good when it was all said and done. I don't see how the flywheel being warped would make the engine idle rough only at 1k rpm.
03-12-2005, 09:25 AM
#13
Originally Posted by krue92
The clutch feels fine. It grabs great to me. The clutch pedal feels real smooth and everything else is great. It just idles rought at low rpm. And if you rev is up to like 5k on the way back down at about 1k you can see the shake of the motor.
.............
03-12-2005, 12:50 PM
#14
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cause at certain RPM's the flywheel has an inherent centrifugal vibration/resonance....just like why everyone's engine feels smoother at certain rpms then others...it has to do with rotational balancing...
as far as looking at the flywheel, the marginal unsmoothness of the flywheel which would result in a shake or roughness would not be visible by the human eye...as most warped rotors are not visibly apparent but rather on a brake lathe...
it could also possibly be the tranny mount not being tightened down to spec or even a halfshaft not being put back in and torqued down to spec....
just some ideas
as far as looking at the flywheel, the marginal unsmoothness of the flywheel which would result in a shake or roughness would not be visible by the human eye...as most warped rotors are not visibly apparent but rather on a brake lathe...
it could also possibly be the tranny mount not being tightened down to spec or even a halfshaft not being put back in and torqued down to spec....
just some ideas
03-12-2005, 02:16 PM
#16
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oh wow....you only have 20 miles on it...yeah you can't diagnose any clutch related problems till it's broken in...you fer sher should wait to rule the clutch out by breaking it in then come back if the problem still persists...
03-13-2005, 07:30 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Max1man
If you tried to start the car with your MAF disconnected..you need to do a full reset on your ECU or it will run like poop. Disconnect your NEG terminal overnight on the battery. That will fix the MAF reset problem.
03-13-2005, 12:39 PM
#21
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After doing some more troubleshooting, I can tell it is definitely a vibration. It occurs around 1k mostly, but you can kind of feel throughout the powerband. I am really confused on what it could be. I tightened everythingdown to specs. The new clutch I am using is a Exedy clutch. Looks like I might have to take the tranny off, but I really don't know where to start if everything looks ok. I am still going to drive it to see if it gets worse or better since I only have about 30 miles or so on it after the clutch install.
03-14-2005, 06:07 AM
#22
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Also I was wondering if the pressure plate is balanced on all sides or does it have to go on a certain way. It seemed to only go on easy one way. I know some cars have a certain side to put on, so I was just curious if anybody knows how the maxima is. Thanks.
03-14-2005, 06:14 AM
#23
After 250 miles the vibration has become a little less noticible. I'm waiting for a call from the shop.
Another note is that the Amsoil 80/90 GL4 is not performing quite as well as the Redline MT90. That will be a future thread if I dump the Redline back in someday soon and notice any difference.
Another note is that the Amsoil 80/90 GL4 is not performing quite as well as the Redline MT90. That will be a future thread if I dump the Redline back in someday soon and notice any difference.
03-14-2005, 08:19 AM
#32
Originally Posted by SonicDust187
But I also heard if the clutch is thicker the same can occure. Did you install an oem or aftermarket clutch?
03-14-2005, 08:53 AM
#33
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My clutch works fine though and I can chirp the tires if I try. I have only tried once, since the clutch isn't really broke in. I am taking mine to a tranny shop tomorrow to get there opinion. Worst case sceneraio I have to pull the tranny again, but its pretty easy.
03-14-2005, 09:36 AM
#36
Originally Posted by krue92
So whats the easiest way to test the mass air flow sensor?
03-14-2005, 09:45 AM
#37
also make sure your crank angle sensor is plugged in....I left mine un plugged after the clutch job and the car started once and ran like crap then it would not start after that. Just make sure its screwed down.
03-14-2005, 10:05 AM
#38
Originally Posted by cardana24
also make sure your crank angle sensor is plugged in....I left mine un plugged after the clutch job and the car started once and ran like crap then it would not start after that. Just make sure its screwed down.
03-14-2005, 10:18 AM
#39
its on the trans. if you look in from the front of the car, and look down at the transmission (under the intake) you will see something that is held onto the top of your trans. with two screws....thats it. Make sure it is hooked up, you would have un hooked it when you dropped the trans out of the car when doing the clutch.
Originally Posted by crazy97
I've never heard of this, where about in the engine is this, or is it on the trans?
03-14-2005, 10:25 AM
#40
Originally Posted by cardana24
its on the trans. if you look in from the front of the car, and look down at the transmission (under the intake) you will see something that is held onto the top of your trans. with two screws....thats it. Make sure it is hooked up, you would have un hooked it when you dropped the trans out of the car when doing the clutch.
Ok, thanks. I will look at it but I'm sure that is plugged in.