tigerxp17

I'm new with Maxima, but I've always like the car, not to mention the V6, I have a '99 with 101 miles, but resently its stalling, its not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd, and sometimes while stoped it stalls, it doesn't completely die, but the revs don't tell me much, they bearly go down or up, so I wanted to know if anyone can pin point a culprit. Thanks

adithius

Is you engine light on? You should probably do a complete tune up for the car.

Your culprit for your present situation should be the following:

Clogged fuel filter
Clogged fuel injectors
Bad ignition coils
Crank sensor needs to be cleaned or replaced.

You should check the stickys, they have very useful information. Also when you are posting, try to be as detailed as possible.

tigerxp17

No, the engine light it's not on, but in only does this in 1st gear or while stopped, on high gear it shifts and runs good, also I've noted that if I give it a good warm up time it will do it less or not do it at all, but im down in Miami Fl, cold is not our problem, its more like overheating. so i still can understand why it does it.

Bender-san

All the time or intermittent? Do you notice any chane with the car shifted from neutral to drive (ie. do the RPM's go nuts...jump to 1500 or so)?

tigerxp17

no it doesnt

tigerxp17

no, not all the time. and the RPM's don't jump to 1500 or nothing like that, but I feel that moving it from neutral to drive its a little hard sometimes, also taking it out of parking

Bender-san

Check the TSB on here for the EGI harness issues. I've seen a few Maxi's get harness problems as they age (and no, you don't need to replace the harness, just get in and fix what's broken).

Maximakid17

Try checking the mass air flow filter, Take it out, clean the prongs in the box off, and see what happens, My car did that too, like you press the gas and itll rev up but its like delayed not smooth at all, and sometimes all out dies, my advice is check the MAF, and see if it works after that, PM with the results.

tigerxp17

Thanks u all

tigerxp17

could you be more explicit I have no idea what the hell the TSB or the EGI are...

97MaximaSE

i had a problem where i ha 2 broken wires in the harness....grab the harness from the firewall(looking at the engine its in the back left) just grab it and bend it with the car running. If it stalls you have some broken wires. took me 2 years of replacing sensors and coils only to find out 2 wires were broken

97MaximaSE

tsb is technical service bulletin....basically issues that nissan knows about. almost like a solution database for techs. EGI beats me but i know what the word harness means and mine was screwed up

tigerxp17

What is the harness????

97MaximaSE

open your hood and look at your engine.......it comes out the firewall towards the back left.....

mechanicaljoint

also check all you air intake plumbing to make sure everything is tight and connected.

i left a piece of air intake plumbing (resonator box by the battery) and the ECU couldn't get the car to idle. when i put the box back on, presto, everything ran fine...

tigerxp17

I've woke up this morning willing to take care of the problem, I went and got the fuel filter, and the air filter, I change them both.
(the fuel filter was harder than I expected).
Im back from a quick run, everything seems Ok, it did it at the beginning, but not after I steped on it, it seems to be good, but I'll let you guys now, for sure tomorrow.

tigerxp17

NO luck yet, i took it out last night, and it still did some stalling, yet last night it handled well, (i smoked a Camaro), but it still stalled, so I guess it wasn't the fuel filter or the air filter....

97MaximaSE

whats wrong with the 1-2 shift? i still think you should pull on that wire harness with the car running and see if the rpms stumble or the car stalls

Djpic3

My 99 is running like crap too. It's a standard and stalls at idle/runs bad. Tonight while checking the injectors i discovered a LEAK IN THE MANIFOLD GASKET!!! Behind the drivers side front injector. Check your gasket for a leak, should be making a hissing sound at idle. Run your hand around the gasket and listen for a change in the sound. If you find it you can confirm the problem by spraying a bit of starting fluif near the spot. If the Idle changes you've got a leak. I'll be changing my gasket tommorow morning.... well hope this helps! I gotta go find the directions on here for replacing the gasket.

Maximus_95

iTrader: (8)

uhmm....im having the same problems

tigerxp17

I'll look at the gasket, but yeah I think Ive heard a sissiling sound, and yesterday I notice that the lights dim while it stalls, the voltage decreases.

From 1-2 shift its fine, it just kicks back a little, from what i've notice mine changes at 1.75 rpms and has to go back down to 1 rpm.

Meanwhile, i still dont know where the harness is, i was going to include a picture of my engine so somebody could point at it, but i don't know who to so....

tigerxp17

hey Djpic3 hit me up with the outcome, and let me know if you find directions on how to do it.

tigerxp17

tigerxp17

any other ideas...

Djpic3

Ok, Sorry it took a few days to post this.... ended up with a respitory infection..cough cough. The gasket was only $6.75 from THE DEALER! I also bought a chiltons to use as a guide for $15...rip-off.

The upper intake manifold gasket job isn't terribly hard to do. It took me about 3 hours, but I spent 30 minutes taking the upper EGR pipe bolts off when I didn't need to. (Chiltons manual... ) You only need to lift the manifold up about 2 inches to remove the gasket. Here is what I remember:

- Remove the intake (Black tube the connects to air filter) at the TB and swing out of your way.

- Unplug all the wire harness's that restrict the manifold from lifting up 2-3 inches (IE: The ones with short wires) This includes the frint 3 Injectors, unplug them and swing the harness out of your way. BE SURE TO REMEMBER (OR LABEL) WHERE THE CONNECTORS GO! My camera phone came in handy for this one!

- Remove Throttle cable assembly and pull back towards fire wall out of way.

- Remove anything else that restricts you from lifting the intake up 2-3 inches. Use you judgement on this I am sure I'm forgetting some items....

- Now your ready to remove the front Manifold bolts. To do this you need to remove them in the order they are supposed to be tightened. Standing in front of the car looking at the manifold here is the orderfrom left to right) 2, 3, 4, 1.

- Now in the back of the manifold there is 2 bolts remaining. They are a PAIN IN THE *** to get off becuase you don't have much room for tools/hands. I started them with a ratchet and finished them with a socket and my hand. You may need to push some hoses around to get access, just don't forget to "clip" them back into place when your done.

- You should now be able to lift the manifold from them front, and angle it up enough to remove the old gasket.

- **** Now you need to carefully clean the surface the gasket touch's. DO NOT GET ANY DIRT INTO THE INTAKE/ENGINE DURING THIS STEP! If you need to block the intake tubes with rags do so. The old gasket is rubber and shouldn't leave much behind so this is easy.

- Now carefully place the new gasket in. Make sure it is even/straight all the way around and lower the manifold onto it.

- *** You will need to start the REAR MANIFOLD BRAKET BOLTS FIRST! If you start the fronts the rears will not line up......trust me I did this. Be careful not to move the manifold on the gasket to much it could damage it, or get out of place.

- Now your ready for the front bolts. You will need a torque wrench for this to tighten to spec. THESE MUST BE TIGHTENED IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE AND TO THE PROPER TORQUE.

SEQUENCE (From left to right, facing engine) BOLT: 2, 3, 4 1

NISSAN SPECIFIED TORQUE FOR THESE BOLTS IS 13-16 lbs/ft (I KNOW THIS SEEMS LOW, BUT I EVEN DOUBLE CHECKED WITH THE DEALER. THERE SERVICE MANUAL STATES 13-16 lbs/ft. I TIGHTENED TO 16)

- Reconnect everything and your DONE!! Enojoy



If I forgot anything please feel free to add to this thread! Hope this helps.