ThisMaxIsTight

iTrader: (23)

got my new brembo blanks, axxis pads, jack+stands, c-clamp, and tool set...I have motorvates "how to do brakes" for my main instruction source, stupid haynes manual only has how to change pads...I mainly need to know what solutions and lubrication products I need....1st thing I have is anti-seze...what else do I need other than this?...what do u put on the piston caliper pins?...do I need a certain kind of brake cleaning solution?...if anyone can tell me all the other stuff I need that would be greatly appreciated...this will be my first time doing brakes...thanks for any input

ronin22357

iTrader: (14)

you need a can of brakleen, anti-squeal, caliper slide grease.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Oil drain pan to catch the brake cleaner so you can get the drippings out of the garage asap. It will burn a hole from your nose to your brain in 10s. There is the 'green' version that contains less VOCs, and the good stuff that has all the nasties. Both work well for brake applications, but the green stuff doesn't work on grease.

If doing rears, buy the tool for ratcheting the rear caliper in place.

I would only worry about regreasing caliper pins if they have a torn boot or aren't moving smoothly. Marine axle grease or automotive grease is fine for these.

I believe anti-squeal is inferior to a new set of OEM shim hardware. I've never used anti-squeal, and never had a squealing brake pad, either.

You'll also need a couple of smallish bolt (1" long x M8?) that will fit into the threaded holes of the old rotor so you can push it off the axle.

Dave

ThisMaxIsTight

iTrader: (23)

Dave and Ronin thank you very much for the info

SMX95

iTrader: (8)

check your pm, its pretty long but basically says how to do everything.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

always grease ur caliper slides...its stupid not to i mean u have the calipers off the car

MaDMvD

iTrader: (16)

SMX, would it be possible to send me this information? I received my brake set last week, and I will be doing my brakes as well. I need as much information as possible, since this will be my first time doing brakes too..

Thanks,

Maurice

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

jeez people..u need a lug wrench...a 12mm a 16mm I believe, a jack and either a C clamp or a brake tool to depress the caliper.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Close but not right. To do the fronts you will need a clamp, 12mm and a 19mm. To do the rears you will need a rear caliper compressor(autozone has them), 10mm, 12mm, and a 17mm. Get some high temp grease for the sliding pins. You can skip the anti squeal but definately get a new "hardware" kit for both the front and back. ~$20 bucks for each axle set at the dealership. Here is the write up I did for the rears:

Instructions:

1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.

2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.

3) Finish taking off rear wheels.

4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.

5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a see-saw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.

6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.

7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.

8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.

9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.

Notes:

Make sure your parking brake is off.

Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.

10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.

After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.

Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.

I take no responsibility if you trash your car or hurt yourself.

Hope this helps.

Dubbya

BobK

Dubbya, great instructions (slightly better than nupe500's) I wish I had these when I first changed mine, or even the second.